We recently visited our long-ago home, England. It was a fairly short visit, only six days, but any time we return it feels like going home. We flew from Chicago’s O’Hare IAP to Heathrow, arriving in the wee hours of the morning, and immediately caught a ride to Le Manoir au Quat’Saisons, the legendary hotel established by Chef Raymond Blanc nearly 40 years ago in rural Oxfordshire (https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons/).

As we were flying to Heathrow, we contrasted this trip with our first trip together to London, back around 1980. Mike was in law school and Victoria was working as a flight attendant for American Airlines. Mike had arranged his class schedule to have a three-day weekend, and Victoria scored an airline employee offer for us to fly to London for around $100/each on a space-available basis. We had some spending money, but not a lot.

On that weekend over 40 years ago we packed our bags, headed to Logan Airport, and found ourselves in London a few hours later. Taking the train into the city centre, we hopped off and, dragging our suitcases behind us, set off to find a place to stay. We stopped at a cheap hotel (as I recall, around £20) and snagged a room. We walked up the stairs and entered it, and were aghast at the sight before us. Alas, it was little more than a flophouse. In fact, “flophouse” might be a generous description. 

Nonetheless, we stayed, did a bit of touring that day, and then struck off the next morning for better digs. For a bit more (I think around £29), we ended up in a charming, somewhat ancient little hotel that had once been the lair of highwaymen…at least that’s what the owner told us. Over our three days there, we were on the move non-stop, sampling local fare in cheaper restaurants, buying half-price theatre tickets, and just generally strolling the City, gawking at sites we’d only known about through books; Buckingham Palace, Pall Mall, Piccadilly Circus…. 

It was the beginning of our decades-long exploration of the world.

Just a couple of years later we were lucky to find ourselves living on the outskirts of Oxfordshire, a dream come true. We traveled with great friends, learned a bit of history, and rubbed elbows with the Royal Family on a few occasions. Over our three years in England we were on the move constantly—weekly trips into London and over two dozen trips by ferry to the Continent. We were exposed to so much; it was an opportunity few have and we took full advantage.

This visit was, for us, a homecoming. Our first destination--Le Manoir au Quat’Saisons (https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons/), was not far from our long-ago home on the edge of Oxford. We heard of Le Manoir’s arrival back when we lived in Oxfordshire and visited, though at that earlier time we lacked the financial resources to do anything more than stroll the grounds. This time around we were actually able to fully experience this extraordinary destination.

Le Manoir is exquisite, a fifteenth century manor house that has been expanded and modernized over the years to create what is now a beautiful hotel that incorporates a storied restaurant and cooking school. Chef Blanc’s quest for perfection is evident at every turn, and he has had a hand in selecting every detail, from the restaurant’s menu to the layout of the gardens and paths. Our time there included meals at the restaurant (which has…almost unbelievably…maintained two Michelin stars for almost 40 years), a tour of the garden, and time relaxing in the comfortable, perfectly appointed lounges where cocktails, teas and light snacks are served. Our suite was truly luxurious. Food is a priority here: there are 50 chefs on staff.

We took advantage of our time in Oxfordshire to visit some old stomping grounds—our favorite pub (the Oxford Arms in Kirtlington), Blackwell’s Book Store, and the grounds of  Oxford University (Little known fact: Victoria was the first American ever accepted by the Oxford Bach Choir, and frequently performed at the Sheldonian Theatre). We even made a brief stop at our old home in Kidlington, where the present owner invited us to take a look at the garden—picture perfect, as it had been under our stewardship. 

It really was, for us, like going home. Our time in Oxfordshire was wonderful, but we had to get back to London, which stands in stark contrast to rural, somewhat sleepy, Great Milton.  Bustling with tourists and Londoners who were just out and about, London offers it all—great theatre, world class dining and shopping that rivals that anywhere, all set in one of the world’s most historic cities.  We were taken directly to the Beaumont, one of the City’s iconic hotels. Again, back in The Day we spent a great deal of time in London. Our home was near the Oxford Ring Road, which connected to the M4 Motorway, and at perhaps some supralegal speeds we could be in London in just over an hour. Theatre, iconic shopping, beautiful parks, and, above all, royal pageantry were always on tap when we visited. Often we did so more than once a week.

Returning to London was truly magical, though the weather was damp and cool. We stayed in a luxurious suite at the Beaumont, one of the more intimate and approachable properties among the top tier of London hotels, located in Mayfair (https://www.thebeaumont.com/). A hint of the soul of this hotel is revealed by the concierge’s recommendation for a friendly, easy dinner: Chippy’s Fish & Chips, a phenomenally good place to eat, where we breezed past a long queue, thanks to the reservation she made for us. This recommendation reflects what we always experience at the Beaumont—the highest level of comfort, served alongside personal warmth and gracious service.

Over three days in London we explored a few other dining destinations, but more importantly, updated our knowledge of some of the other hotels that are on our clients’ must-visit lists.

Our time in London was too short, but we were able to visit two other hotels that are more than worthy of one’s consideration when visiting—Claridge’s (https://www.claridges.co.uk/) and Raffles London at the WOW (https://www.raffles.com/london/).

Claridge’s is a benchmark for luxury hotels in London—something every London hotelier would tell you—and during our visit we toured the top suites, which are truly remarkable.

Raffles is equally extraordinary, though in a different way…situated in the building once occupied by the War Office, the hotel represents the culmination of a years-long project to preserve an historic building while converting it to modern use. There are too many highlights to mention them all, but certainly at or near the top was touring the Granville Suite, once the office of Sir Winston Churchill. If you are searching for a London hotel that exemplifies the highest standards of luxury while embracing an incredible history, this may be the right choice.

Quite a bit of our time in London was devoted to long strolls…through the parks, down the crowded avenues, and occasionally stopping in to check out shops that can be found nowhere else on the planet. And on a cool, damp day there can be no greater pleasure than an unplanned stop at Brown’s Hotel for hot tea. So we did.

SPECTACULAR OCEANSIDE ESCAPE
Surrounded by azure waters, verdant forest reserves and postcard-perfect beaches, your Greek oasis is immersed in the enchanting beauty of the Aegean Sea. Minutes from the heart of Athens yet steps away from the ocean, soak up the gentle air of nostalgia at One&Only Aesthesis, where our elevated beach bungalows, chic residences and exceptional villas are imbued with mid-century glamour.
 
AN UNTOLD WORLD OF NOSTALGIA
One&Only Aesthesis recalls the 1960s heyday of the Athenian Riviera, reigniting cosmopolitan glamour on the shores of Glyfada.
 
DESIGNING AN ICON
Three acclaimed architecture firms – AUDO, A6Architects, and K-Studio – along with interior design studio Muza Lab, were commissioned to bring One&Only Aesthesis to life. The result is a captivating resort where the highest levels of aesthetics, sustainability and execution are grounded in a deep respect for the past. 
 
THE ATHENIAN RIVIERA, REVEALED
Let One&Only Aesthesis unlock the wonders of the Athenian Riviera. Relax in our spectacular pools and private sandy beaches and embrace the art of wellness at Greece's first Guerlain Spa. Beyond the resort, we reveal a new side to the ancient capital, with curated adventures that take you to the cultured heart of Athens, just a 30-minute drive away.
 
CULINARY JOURNEYS
Delight in Mediterranean-inspired day-to-night dining as we take you from relaxed breakfasts and laidback poolside lunches to sunset cocktails, vibrant tapas, and late-night libations. At the heart of the One&Only Aesthesis dining experiences is a pair of destination restaurants from master chefs Ettore Botrini and Paco Morales, who bring their Italian, Greek and Moorish culinary artistry to the table.
 
Resort Facts

• 127 keys: 95 private beach and garden bungalows (all with private pools); 19 rooms and suites and a signature Villa One with private pool
• 21-hectares of exclusive beachfront estate in Southern Athens with 1.6km of private seafront and a 6-hectare forest reserve
• Three restaurants and a bar
• Three pools tow beaches, including adults-only pool and beach
• Destination Beach Club with pools, stylish cabanas, restaurant, bar and entertainment
• Club One with tennis courts
• Greece’s First Guerlain Spa

UNDISCOVERED GREEK GEM
Occupying a dazzling, 65-hectare beachfront site on the west side of Kéa island in the Cyclades, One&Only Kéa Island glimmers with the promise of discretion and seclusion, just a stone’s throw from Athens. Boasting flawless all-villa accommodation by the sea, the resort will also offer an enviable collection of One&Only Private Homes to call your own
 
Reconnect with natural rhythms at One&Only Kéa Island and experience the revitalizing and grounding Mediterranean lifestyle in its purest form. Explore the resort and its grounds, or roam further afield to discover the verdant charms of the Cyclades' most fertile island. Whatever lures you here, feel the secrets of Kéa come alive, igniting deep passions and inspiring the soul.
 
FLAWLESS VILLAS
Featuring monolithic, vertically oriented architecture, our contemporary villas hug the hillside above the beach. Each villa comes with a private pool, terrace, courtyard and fireplace. Most sport panoramic, almost 360-degree views of the sparkling sea and bay, bringing the blue-and-gold scenery in.
 
ON ISLAND TIME
A secluded enclave amid cobalt Aegean waters, Kéa island ignites deep passions among adventurous travellers. It’s a place of rocky cliffs, rolling olive groves and ancient civilizations. Reconnect with the elements as you explore land and sea through tailored experiences and itineraries.
 
AEGEAN WONDER
Inspired by the azure blue waters of the Cyclades, One&Only Kéa Island’s one- and two-bedroom villas capture the serenity of island life with secluded spaces, indigenous materials and modern design elements that bring the outdoors in. Find room to relax and let your mind wander.
 
Resort Facts

• 73keys: one and two bedroom villas, all with private pools, terraces, courtyards and a fireplace
• All villas feature almost 360-degree see and bay views
• Located a stone’s throw form Athens: 40 minute ferry ride from Athens Lavrio Port or 10-minute helicopter ride from Athens International Airport
• 65-hectare site located in the Bay of Voskopos in western side of Kea Island
• Two restaurants and a bar
• Four pools: two main outdoor pools, two spa pools (indoor and outdoor)

DISCOVER THE LOCATION
Positioned just off the open Adriatic coastline, at the elegant entrance to Boka Bay in Herceg Novi, One&Only Portonovi is the jewel of Montenegro's flourishing new riviera. Rejoice in pristine beaches, sun-soaked sailing, and forest hiking. Wander the cobbled streets and fresco-filled churches of neighboring Medieval towns like Perast and Kotor. Where culture meets natural beauty, glamour, and adventure, you can experience the most unique things to do in Montenegro.
 
THE JEWEL OF THE ADRIATIC
Resplendent at the entrance of Boka Bay, a fjord-like idyll on Montenegro’s Adriatic Sea, One&Only Portonovi is the jewel of Europe’s most fashionable new riviera, all year round. A rare nautical playground offering fresh air adventures through sapphire waters, dramatic forest, and medieval towns. Perfectly balanced with chic, water-front relaxation, world-class dining, and pioneering wellness by Chenot.
 
ONE-OF-A-KIND LOCATION
Nestled in the southeast of Europe, neighboring the established hotspots of tourism Croatia, Greece and Italy - Montenegro is a safe, undiscovered destination of stunning beauty, that should be part of any European circuit.
 
CHIC & PALATIAL LIVING
Located in the heart of Boka Bay, our 60 acres of sprawling resort overlooks a dramatic coastline of mountain vistas and calm waters, emphasizing a sense of privacy and chic palatial living.
 
CHENOT WELLNESS PROGRAMMES
Discover a selection of curated wellness programmes at Chenot Espace including a 6-day Detox Programme; 4-day De-Stress & Re-Charge Programme; 3-day Fitness Programme; and a 2-day Weekend Spa programme.
 
NATURAL BEAUTY, REFLECTED
Inspired by cerulean seas and emerald valleys, terracotta rooftops and crisp silver mountainsides, your private sanctuary reflects and amplifies the beauty of Boka Bay. Mesmerizing views are drawn inside your private world, perfectly framed by floor-to-ceiling glass. Wake up to orange skies, gentle birdsong, and the buzz of passing boats - a show to keep you mesmerized all day.
 
Resort Facts

• 123 keys, 105 rooms, six suites and twelve villas – including a Villa One with private pool and ten Signature Villas with private pool, beach and jetty
• Three restaurants and a bar, including Tapasake
• Chenot Espace, the ultimate center for medically inspired wellness
• Access to a 238-berth D-Marin Portonovi Marina, as well as private jetty for One&Only guests

There are a number of ways to experience Alaska, but we wanted to go a bit deeper than most. Our journey began (and ultimately ended) at the Captain Cook Hotel in Anchorage. From there we ventured out and spent time at Alyeska Lodge, Talkeetna Lodge, and Winterlake Lodge, then on to Sheldon Chalet, described later in greater detail. Each day was wondrous, but in short we experienced a bush plane flight to view gigantic brown bears (Lake Clark National Park); a day on Prince William Sound (where our Captain, Gabe, took us to glaciers, puffin rookeries, an improbable oyster farm, and finished with a meal of freshly caught and gathered sea bass, shrimp, and beach lettuce); a ski plane excursion to Denali National Park’s Ruth Glacier; and a three-night stay at legendary Winterlake Lodge (where a storied tradition of culinary excellence combines with glacier trekking, dog sled mushing, and relaxation in a wood-fired sauna).



Much of what we experienced can only be done with a considerable amount of logistical coordination (Thanks, A&K!); because most of our destinations within Alaska were quite remote, we relied on of bush planes, ski planes, float planes, and helicopters. We traveled by aircraft nearly 20 times to reach lodges, lakes, glaciers and mountaintops. Each of our days in Alaska left us in amazement at what we had experienced. And we’re serious about this—the cumulative impact of immense beauty, wildlife, and the ruggedness of it all consistently left us wondering how the next day could be any better. And yet, each day brought new delights.

The Shadows of Giants

We stand in awe of giants. And sometimes we are privileged to meet them face to face.

Of our Earth’s giants, Denali is arguably the greatest, rising 20,310 feet, three and a half miles from base to summit. Compared to the world’s tallest mountain, Denali beats Mount Everest by over a mile when measured from base to summit.

We first encountered Denali on our ski plane excursion from Talkeetna, Alaska, a flight that took us near the mountain, landing on the Ruth Glacier, an immense ice field within Denali National Park and Reserve. While The Great One was partially shrouded by clouds on the day of our first encounter, the mountain and those surrounding were impressively tall and rugged.

Giants come in human form, too. Over the years we’ve had the good fortune to meet a few. One of Alaska’s giants, Don Sheldon, was the moving force behind what is arguably the most remote and unique luxury property on Earth, Sheldon Chalet.

We’ll get to the details below, but Don Sheldon, one of Alaska’s most famous aviators, is the man who first envisioned this unforgettable chalet  (https://sheldonchalet.com/legacy/).

His story is told in Wager With The Wind ( https://a.co/d/dPIYlzl). A legendary Alaskan, Don was responsible, along with Brad Washburn, for surveying Denali and the surrounding mountain range. Of equal importance, his stature as a bush pilot was unrivaled, and his exploits included countless rescues of climbers and downed air crews. 

During the course of his life, Don staked a claim to 4.99 acres of land atop a mountain peak (in geological terms, a nunatak) jutting up from the 35-square mile ice field known as Ruth Glacier. He built the Mountain House on this peak, a small structure which became a stop for his friends and family, as well as climbers. When Denali National Park expanded to encompass the area surrounding Don’s land, it remained the only privately owned property within the Park. 
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Don and his wife Roberta, with whom he built a successful air charter company, had a dream that was not realized in their lifetimes. But, some time later, when the family was in the course of sorting through family belongings, his son Robert and Marne, Don’s daughter-in-law, came across the blueprints for what is now known as Sheldon Chalet, a guest house design that Don had hoped to build on the nunatak. Those blueprints ignited the imagination of the Sheldon family, thus beginning a quest to bring Don’s dream to fruition. The subsequent years brought revisions to the original plans, and the edifice was built by the family in what is certainly the most improbable place on Earth, a mountaintop standing in the middle of a vast Glacier in the shadow of Denali. It would not be an exaggeration to call it the most remote luxury lodge that exists. 

We had to visit.

Our time in Alaska up to this point had been wondrous, but nothing prepares you for the voyage to Sheldon Chalet. We were picked up in Anchorage and whisked to Talkeetna in an A-Star AS350 helicopter. Upon landing at the Talkeetna Airfield we were met by Robert and Marne Sheldon, and their son Ryan. Shortly after, Marne flew on to the Chalet. Ryan babysat us until it was our time to join Marne. While we were waiting, the weather moved in…steady, at times torrential, rain. The prospects for getting to the Chalet seemed to be fading. Our departure was pushed back. Then the rain slackened a bit, and it was back to the helicopter.

​It took two attempts to get to the Chalet, as our initial approach was met with a wall of clouds. But, no worries…our pilot turned back towards Talkeetna and landed in a remote area, while back in Talkeetna close attention was being paid to radar and satellite imagery by Robert, who was in radio contact with our pilot. His observation of what was happening in the mountains revealed a brief break in the weather. After waiting a few minutes, on we went, navigating through the impossibly steep canyons that form the shoulders of the Ruth Glacier. And then it popped into view…Sheldon Chalet! As impressive as the photos and videos may be, the sight of the Chalet brought tingles to our spines…while it’s a formidable structure, the Chalet is dwarfed by the setting, an immense expanse of ice surrounded by mountains, including the Giant, Denali.

We landed and were greeted by Marne and the Chalet’s staff. Walking from the helipad to the Chalet and scanning the mountains in every direction, there was not one among us who did not utter the words, “Oh, my God!” It’s so utterly improbable and beautiful.

Walking into the Chalet is another feast for the senses. We were each met with a glass of Champagne while we took in the beauty of the Chalet and a view that only a select few will ever be able to experience. Our concierge ushered us to the dining table, where Chef Dave (an alum of the Culinary Institute of America and Le Cordon Bleu) had prepared a sumptuous presentation of local and international delicacies. 
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Marne introduced us to our two backcountry guides, who over the next two days would lead members of our entourage on glacier snowshoe treks, mountain skiing adventures, and sledding on the slopes. And, of course, in this respect, no detail is left to chance. Each guest is asked to fill out a questionnaire before arrival, and in each of our rooms we found a large duffel of Black Diamond gear—everything from sun shirts to waterproof overpants—that met our every need for outdoor equipment. 

While it seems it would be impossible in this extremely remote location, the level of luxury within the Chalet was palpable in everything we saw, tasted, or touched—beautiful and comfortable furnishings, heavenly beds, and gourmet foods, wines, and cocktails are all part of the experience. Our days at Sheldon Chalet were filled with activity, but also with ample time to relax in ultimate comfort, surrounded by nature’s most inspiring landscape. For a more detailed description, check out https://sheldonchalet.com/. 

Each season here brings its own wonders. During our June visit, we enjoyed nearly 22 hours of daylight. In midwinter, darkness prevails, along with the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights in a setting unmarked by artificial light. When outdoors, regardless of the season, the quiet peacefulness of the place is always present, punctuated occasionally by the muffled roar of a distant avalanche.

Here, unlike any other place you will ever visit, you find yourself in the shadows of giants.
--
The details: Sheldon Chalet is available only on an exclusive buyout basis, and is accessible only by helicopters operating under a contractual arrangement with the owners. The Chalet can accommodate a party of up to 10, with a required minimum stay of three nights. The cost—available upon inquiry—includes the flights to and from Anchorage and/or Talkeetna, accommodations, food and beverages, use of the provided specialty apparel and gear, and expert guides with experience in a range of mountain/backcountry activities. There is no phone service, cellular coverage, or internet coverage at the Chalet, though the staff has satellite-based communication capabilities for the purpose of coordinating flights and obtaining emergency assistance should that ever prove necessary. We urge planning for your visit to Sheldon Chalet as far in advance as possible, as availability is extremely limited.

For more information on availability and booking, contact us at [email protected] or by phoning 630.420.3538. ​

Over the years we’ve traveled by a variety of conveyances and stayed in everything from tents to the world’s most luxurious hotels and resorts. We tend to prefer the latter…and our clients generally would agree. But, for Elán, the credo “Travel Beyond” applies to anything and everything beyond one’s day-to-day life. These days we spend a good deal of our time at Borah Borah, our place in Wisconsin, where we trade the conveniences of the City for the allure of wildflowers and fresh air. 

 Our modest rural escape is actually in a pretty special place known as the Driftless Area. This geological island was missed by the recent ice ages that scraped much of the Midwest flat, and remains an area of tall bluffs and deeply carved valleys. Because of this, species that have long been extinct elsewhere have served…in an area also referred by scientists as the Paleozoic Plateau. You should think about visiting us sometime. Seriously.

Over the next few months we will be traveling extensively. We’re presently winging our way to Alaska, where we’ll be visiting some of the most exclusive and remote destinations in North America, including Talkeetna Lodge, Winterlake Lodge, and Sheldon Chalet. After that we’ll be voyaging to the Arctic Circle via England, Norway and Denmark, aboard the stunning Explora I. Then, it will be on to Positano, Italy to spend time exploring the Amalfi Coast.

But, before that, we owed it to ourselves to see a bit of what was in our own backyard. So, we loaded up the Yukon (also known as “The Big Bus”), and set off to explore a bit of Wisconsin.

The first leg of our local trek took us to Villa Bellezza in Pepin, Wisconsin, a remarkable property aimed at replicating an Italian winery. Stopping for lunch, we explored the grounds, then were greeted by Chef Antonio Cecconi, who now heads up the Villa’s culinary program. It’s really a surprising place, set not in Tuscany, but in Wisconsin, near the Mighty Mississippi. Chef Antonio, a native of Sardinia, came to the United States as a young man and has had a storied career in exclusive restaurants and in corporate America. If you’ve ever picked up the Betty Crocker Italian Cookbook, you may recognize him as the author. 

Chef Antonio fed us well…very well…and gave us a tour of the impressive grounds. But, we had miles to cover. The Big Bus then took us to Stockholm, a tiny town (population 78) that has a surprising number of great shops and restaurants. Though we had eaten well at Villa Bellezza, there is always room for pie at the renowned Stockholm Pie and General Store. Mike declared his chocolate cream pie “the best chocolate pie of my life.” Without exaggeration, even if you have to fly, drive or walk thousands of miles, you must visit this place in your lifetime. Elán can charter a jet for you, and we’ll meet you for pie. It will not be a hardship. 

And, yes, Wisconsin does have a “Pie Trail,” which takes the fortunate gastronome to some truly marvelous venues for home-baked pie. 

From Stockholm it was on to our next stop, Wisconsin’s only Relais & Chateaux property, Canoe Bay. Driving to Canoe Bay (www.canoe bay.com) you would not really guess what you’re about to discover there. Miles of farms, rivers, and lakes takes you to a sign on Hogback Road which signals you’ve arrived. 

Exquisite. Really, that’s probably the one word that summarizes it all. Arriving at the reception building, we were greeted by a cascading waterfall fountain, mounds of flowers, and an immaculate, understated lodge that provides the first hint of how special a place this is. Meredith welcomed us at the reception desk and escorted us to our Lakeside Cottage. This and all of the buildings on the property are inspired by the Frank Lloyd Wright school of architectural design. Two were designed by one of his protégés, and the others were designed and built in a complementary style. Again, exquisite. 

This was a celebration of Victoria’s birthday, and we were greeted with a beautiful display of flowers, a lovely charcuterie plate, and a bottle of chilled Larmandier-Bernier Brut Champagne. Meredith gave us a quick tour of our cottage, then excused herself. We relaxed for a bit, anticipating the next (best?) part of our visit, a private dinner in the Inn’s Wine Cellar, prepared and served by Chef Joy. Canoe Bay is known not only for its exquisite setting and architecture, but also for a truly unbelievable culinary program, headed by Joy and a tremendously talented team.

Then it was back to our cottage for an evening of relaxation. Awakening the next morning and peering out the window, the beauty of the sylvan vista promised that a wonderful day awaited.

Breakfast and lunch are brought to each guest cottage by the staff. Served in imaginative pottery containers, their delicious dishes arrive piping hot and presented beautifully. We enjoyed breakfast in our cottage--very civilized—and then we were off for a walking tour. We met John the Gardener, a Danish immigrant who manages the entire landscape maintenance and gardening operation nearly on his own. He showed us the way to the resort’s expansive garden, which supplies most of the produce used by the kitchen. Though it was early springtime, some of the produce was ready for harvest, representing an incredible amount of work on John’s part.

A stroll around the resort takes you through lush woodlands and glistening lakes, all in quiet solitude. Later we spent some time in the Lodge, which serves as the resort’s library, offering a truly great variety of books that span history, art, and nature. It’s a real “Wow!” that is sure to impress the most discerning bibliophile.

Mostly, though, Canoe Bay is a place for relaxation, which is how we spent the balance of our time there. It wasn’t all that difficult in our beautiful cottage overlooking a lake, with countless birds providing the soundtrack. The occasional deer graced us with her presence, as well. 

Beyond that, we simply enjoyed an unhurried day at Canoe Bay, with lunch and dinner in our cottage, interspersed with a drive around the area, a resort haven for midwesterners. A great way to unwind.

After two nights it was time to return to Elán’s Northern Outpost (Borah Borah), but we lingered a bit along the way. We stopped at an outdoor market where we bought a couple of wooden pens that were handmade by an industrious young gent of about 10 years of age, then drove on to La Crosse where we were compelled to visit Meringue Bakery, owned by Jen Barney, a three-time winner of The Food Channel’s baking competitions. Rounding out the pie theme of our trip, we opted for a savory hand pie that was mighty delicious, after which we set our final course for Borah Borah. And, yes, we have to confess that we bought a cookie. 

Rolling into the driveway of Borah Borah, we took a few moments to reflect on what was a really beautiful getaway. Not the same as hiking in Nepal or visiting Versailles, but equally rewarding in providing an opportunity to relax and reflect in a beautiful nearby place. 

Having visited over 100 countries, it’s sometimes easy to forget the treasures nearby—great food and unique resort properties that celebrate local culture are often within easy driving distance. While we encourage our friends and clients to see all the world has to offer, we also are able to help them find unique experiences, like Canoe Bay (and the Pie Trail) nearer to home. Travel Beyond…but don’t forget the nearby treasures.

Have you ever longed to take a trip where you were treated like royalty from the time you left your home, and at every step along the way? At Elán we strive for that feeling for every client on every trip, and nowhere is that experienced in greater abundance than on the private jet trips we arrange for our clients.

This is not an entirely new experience, but it’s emerged as a preferred way to travel for many. Travelers avoid the crowds and hassles of commercial air travel, and find that they are generally whisked from destination to destination. Rather than shuffling through crowded security and immigration lines, private jet travelers receive individualized attention in a more private setting. And, once aboard the level of service—including fine cuisine—is far above that of any airline. 

Since 2020 our clients have placed increasing emphasis on the safety, security, and comforts of private jet travel, so I was intrigued and thrilled when I received an invitation from Abercrombie & Kent (A&K) to experience their private jet on a trip to Iceland.

A&K has been offering private jet itineraries for several years, and is certainly among the leaders in this segment. To join this exclusive trip I flew from Chicago to Boston, and stayed overnight at the beautiful Newbury Hotel before being picked up by private limo to meet my A&K Private Jet in person. While it was to be a short trip, I was able to experience every facet of a genuine A&K Private Jet, from the expedited check-in in the private lounge of a Fixed Base Operator (FBO), to the luxurious in-flight experience, complete with caviar and Dom Perignon Champagne, to the exclusive ground experience upon arrival, to the amazing expedition leaders…all a part of the A&K Private Jet experience. 

The aircraft is a Boeing 757, configured to provide First Class-Plus comfort for each guest. As you’ll see in the photos below, the plane harkens back to the day of elegant air travel, adding luxury in-flight touches well beyond those most have ever experienced. The atmosphere is elegant and comfortable, and the flight attendants are attuned to providing flawless service. It truly is the way to travel.

Arriving in Keflavik, we again were met with an exclusive experience…processed through immigration in a private setting…and were soon on our way to experience anmazing Iceland. The next few days we enjoyed Iceland A&K-style. Each day we partook of the finest local food, accommodations and experiences, including an exclusive retreat at the Blue Lagoon (where we enjoyed private changing rooms, an elegant spa, and privacy from the crowds. We stayed in a remote eco-luxury resort  in the heart of Iceland’s Golden Circle (Torfhus Retreat, where Icelandic culture meets modern standards). At this unique property we were treated to a show of the aurora borealis; snowmobiling on a glacier; and trekking on high-tech overland vehicles.

​Throughout our time in Iceland, we were treated to A&K’s exceptional level of service and attention to detail. Boarding our private jet back to Boston, we once again felt the amazing touches of A&K’s highly professional air and ground crews.

It was a brief taste of the A&K Private Jet experience, but one that clearly demonstrated the considerable appeal of this exclusive mode of travel. For those who choose to be part of it, the Private Jet offers the opportunity to deeply immerse in a large number of destinations in a manner that is supremely comfortable and highly efficient. You are, after all, traveling on your own jet!

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Victoria just returned from another trip, visiting beautiful Hacienda AltaGracia in Costa Rica, then journeying through the Panama Canal on the exclusive Ritz Carlton Private Yacht, Evrima. These two experiences were the perfect complement to one another, with AltaGracia rated one of the world’s top 50 luxury resorts and Evrima representing a level of seagoing luxury formerly unattainable without personal access to one’s own yacht.

Evrima will be featuring seagoing journeys to destinations around the world. A visit to Costa Rica…a relatively short flight from Chicago…was the perfect prelude.  Arriving at the international airport in San José Victoria was whisked to remote AltaGracia by private aircraft. The flight was short in duration, but took her into Costa Rica’s coffee plantation region, an area that is otherwise difficult to reach (at least in any reasonable amount of time).

Auberge has taken a distinctly different path to luxury than many of its competitors, compiling a collection of unique properties that are distinctive from one another, but reflective of an ethos of high quality and attention to detail for the luxury traveler. And, so it is with AltaGracia

AltaGracia is located near to one of the world’s “Blue Zones,” areas noted for longevity and health among their residents. The lessons of wellness gleaned from being in this location are reflected in the cuisine, health treatments, and serenity experienced by guests. Victoria engaged in a variety of these activities during her stay. The sumptuously appointed guest rooms impart serenity. The cuisine centers on local ingredients (mostly grown or harvested within ten miles of AltaGracia). And the spa, The Well, offers truly unique health-oriented experiences that focus on the resort’s unique location (https://aubergeresorts.com/altagracia/). 

While at AltaGracia, Victoria took part in a coffee tasting experience that went into extraordinary detail on differing presentations, took in a river mud bath spa experience, as well as an equestrian demonstration.
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Here are a few photos from Victoria’s AltaGracia experience:

Leaving AltaGracia, Victoria again took a turboprop aircraft back to San Jose, where she boarded Evrima, the first of the Ritz-Carlton Yachts. Launched only a few months ago, Evrima offers guests the luxuries that we have come to associate with Ritz-Carlton properties with the casual freedom of life aboard a private yacht.

Victoria has experienced a wide range of ocean-going voyages, and her time aboard Evrima confirmed the Ritz-Carlton promise that this would be a distinctly different experience than an ordinary cruise. 

This was a short cruise that combined business (the Marriott Luxury Brands board meeting) with a chance for Victoria to familiarize herself with an entirely new way of traveling at sea. Ultimately, Evrima took its guests through the Panama Canal, in itself a unique destination.

Evrima (and her two sister yachts that are now under construction) offers an intimate and elegant alternative to the huge ships that have come to define the cruise industry. These yachts each offer 149 suites, each with a private balcony, and the maximum guest capacity is capped at 298. Suites vary in size, and among them are Loft Suites, which are two-level accommodations. The suites are evocative of a luxury resort, offering spacious accommodations, fantastic bathrooms, and all the comforts of a fine hotel.

Currently offering voyages in the Caribbean and Mediterranean, as well as crossing voyages, Evrima affords each guest a personal concierge and a staff:guest ratio that ensures detailed attention to your every need. Suites are spacious and appointed in the manner one would normally expect from a luxury hotel or resort. The cuisine aboard is more akin to an exclusive restaurant. And, the staff is, of course, trained in the Ritz-Carlton tradition. Here are a few examples of life aboard Evrima:

Some time ago we were called upon to offer our advice for a new product: a fleet of ships unrivaled in every way that would exceed all previous expectations of ocean voyagers while satisfying the most discerning aficionados of fine hotels and resorts. We are now on the cusp of a new age in ocean travel, one defined by ships, crew members, and experiences that set new standards. 

We are thrilled to have the opportunity to be among those who will experience the Inaugural Voyage of the first of these ships, Explora I, and we invite you to join us on a truly memorable sailing. We will be embarking from Southampton, England on July 17, 2023 and voyaging north to the Fjords of Norway and the Arctic Circle, ultimately finishing our voyage in Copenhagen, Denmark.

Explora I will offer extraordinary accommodations in luxurious suites, carefully curated cuisine in her seven restaurants, and tailored explorations ashore as we visit numerous ports of call on this beautiful voyage.

We’re looking forward to our return to this awe-inspiring part of the world. The memories of our first visit to Norway are still vivid…sparkling waters, breathtaking fjords, and unique historical settlements made it one of the truly memorable trips of our lives. We were living in England at the time, and one evening met a couple and their young daughter who, we learned, lived a short distance from our Oxfordshire home. We became fast friends, and over the years have visited one another in the States and in England. Experiences like these are why we’ve chosen this profession, which offers the opportunity to experience the world in a unique way and to make lifelong connections with others.

It’s a foregone conclusion that the places we visit will be beautiful, but equally important, every aspect of your journey has been carefully planned. This preview of the restaurants aboard Explora I provides a glimpse of the attention to the excellence that we will experience on the Inaugural: ​

​Of course, the suites from which you can choose are equally beautiful.

It would be wonderful to have you join us on this journey. And, should you be contemplating a way to celebrate a special occasion in your life, or simply looking for the ideal holiday gift for someone dear to you, the Explora I Inaugural may well be the answer.

Explora I is not a huge ship, and Inaugural sailings are always in high demand among seasoned explorers. We would urge you to act now to reserve your place in maritime history, joining us as we ply the waters of England, Norway, and the Arctic. Please reach out to Victoria at [email protected] or phone her at +1 630.420.3538 for more details.

…that is the question.

Some travelers prefer to carry a massive amount of luggage. Several changes of clothing…outfits for every occasion…shoes and purses for each outfit. That approach works for some, and in fact is the preferred style for some travelers. It’s made easier if you’re flying in your own jet and have an entourage to schlep your bags.  

That’s not the way I roll. It’s carry on only for me.

First, a confession: there are times when we violate this rule, but it happens rarely. A recent trip to Antarctica and Patagonia required packing a bit more than usual to accommodate the clothing requirements of hiking in a cold and austere environment, but both Victoria and I managed it. If you’re traveling to a formal event or on board a ship that requires formal or semiformal attire, it may not work. Or, if you need to take along items or quantities that exceed what can be carried in an aircraft cabin, you may be foreclosed. But, once you dip your toes in the waters of the carry-on only approach, you’ll find it hard to go back.

Here’s the most important reason to carry your own belongings:

Yes, that’s a photo I took at O’Hare IAP. As I watched over a span of more than 20-30 minutes, with my carry-on bag stowed overhead, multiple carts and trucks drove around this solitary forlorn suitcase. If it made it onto the same flight as its owner it was a miracle. 

Before I saw the light, I had a couple of instances where luggage was misplaced. In one instance, our luggage was delivered to our hotel in Jackson Hole after a three day absence, but the airline to this day has lost track of it. When last we checked, they thought one suitcase was on the east coast, the second was in LA, and the third in Costa Rica. They had no clue.

U.S. airlines alone lose around two million suitcases each year. A large number are never reunited with their owners and those that the airlines give up on end up being sold (If you want to be the beneficiary of someone else’s misfortune, you may want to check out https://www.unclaimedbaggage.com/, which sells items that the airlines have lost).  

But, enough picking on the airlines. The better reason for carrying your own luggage on board is sheer convenience. While others are navigating to Luggage Claim and waiting for their suitcases to emerge, you will be through Customs and Immigration, and on your way to your hotel. Are you your own valet? It’s a heck of a lot easier to wrangle a 15-20-lb. roll aboard than a massive suitecase weighing 40 or 50 lbs. Running for a train? If you find yourself doing so, you’ll thank me.

Enough of the why. Without getting into too many technicalities, here’s the how:

First and foremost, you must be aware of your airline’s size limitations. Most U.S. carriers—in fact, most international carriers—will allow you to carry on a bag up to 9” x 14” x 22” (sometimes expressed as “combined dimensions of 45”), as well as one “personal item,” a smaller purse, briefcase, or boarding bag. Some international airlines limit carry-ons to a smaller size, and a few also have weight limitations, some as low as 7 kg. (15.4 lbs.)

Wheels take up room that could be devoted to packing capacity, but that’s a trade off I happily make. Victoria and I generally use four-wheeled roll aboard suitcases by Eagle Creek, with a boarding bag that features a sleeve allowing it to be carried on top of the wheeled suitcase. 

Traveling in this manner requires a bit of planning, but you’ll get the hang of it. Many articles have been written about what to pack, and it takes a couple of times doing it to figure out what works for you. A few tips:

-Synthetic fabrics can make this all manageable. They’re often thin, lightweight, and dry quickly after washing. 

-You can recycle without fear of exposing yourself as a Neanderthal. I generally figure I can easily get two days’ use out a single outfit. By keeping colors and patterns compatible, I can mix things up and make my wardrobe a little less horrifying to those who are watching (Here’s my secret: I don’t care if you’re watching. Not one bit.). If you need warmth at your destination, lightweight (and compressible, if possible) fleeces, down garments, and merino wool are the best. Layers are always your friend, and you’ll find that a base layer of synthetic or merino wool will extend your comfort zone considerably.

If you find yourself on the move you will find that synthetics can be hand-washed and will dry quickly. But, it’s more satisfying to have your hotel do your laundry for you every three or four days. Seriously, do not pack a separate outfit for each day or occasion. 

-Be aware of those items that suck up space and add weight. Men have it easier than women, but I find that I can always get by with a maximum of two pairs of shoes. I wear the heavier, bulkier ones and pack the light ones. Regardless, shoes suck up a lot of space, and if it’s possible to travel with just the pair you wear to the airport it will free up quite a bit of space. If you must carry extra shoes along, don’t let the space inside them go to waste; pack underwear or socks inside. For shoes and other items, small lightweight packing cubes can be very helpful for organizing (and in the case of shoes, keeping other items clean). However, my personal experience is that packing cubes actually are not all that efficient, except in keeping certain items segregated and easier to find.

-Pay attention to what you can and cannot carry on board an aircraft. A little common sense goes a very long way, but if you lack common sense check the TSA website (https://www.tsa.gov/travel/security-screening/whatcanibring/all) and/or your airline’s rules on what you may carry aboard. People most often have problems with the rules that limit the quantity and volume of gels and liquids. No, I’m not going to repeat the 3-1-1 rule. If you’ve flown anywhere in the past few years, you are familiar. That standard is, by the way, perhaps going to die out in the months ahead, as security technology improves.

So, those are the basics of what I carry. How do I pack them?

First, it may be self-evident, but I limit discretionary items. If I’m debating between packing three or four pairs of socks, I’ll go for three. Generally, I’ll roll my clothes, which helps in a couple of ways. First, it minimizes wrinkling. Second, it seems to allow items to occupy a bit less volume, and, sometimes, to be placed in an otherwise unused bit of space. Finally, by avoiding layering, more of your wardrobe is visible when you open your suitcase—it’s easy to spot that blue pair of trousers or that red skirt. You won’t have to dig for what you’re searching to find. 

If I’m packing shoes, socks and underwear go inside. Otherwise, you’re packing air. Small items can be fit into the nooks and crannies that are unsuitable for bigger items. And, if you absolutely have to take a larger coat or a suit, I’d consider wearing them. Sometimes that doesn’t work all that well, but it’ll free up space in your suitcase.

In addition to your carry on suitcase, most airlines allow for one additional “personal item.” That can be a purse or a briefcase, but it can also be an additional small piece of luggage. I use a “cabin bag” that accommodates my notebook, toiletries, and electrical plugs and cords, as well as travel documents. This bag has a sleeve that slips over the extendable handle of my roller bag, easing transit through the airport, train station, or hotel. You should always remember that you may be required at check-in to check your carry on roller, even if it meets size and weight limits, so make sure you pack your medications, toiletries, travel documents, and cash in your personal bag. I try to toss a single of clothing into this bag as well; after all, a big part of the reason we’re members of the Carry On Baggage Club is because airlines frequently lose suitcases.

I’ll add additional tips as they come to mind, but those are the basics. As a final thought, even though I’ve been doing this for years I still come back from most trips and find that there are always a couple of things that I didn’t use during my trip. As you finalize your packing, remove an outfit or two, then zip up your bag. You’ll thank me as you hoist it into the overhead bin.

Be brave. Join The Club. 

Elán has been “🎼 On the road again🎶” (apologies to Willie Nelson). This time we changed it up even more than usual, traveling the American West by motorcycle. Among the things you may not know about us, Mike has been motoring on two wheels since he was around ten years old, when his older brother presented him with a Sears minibike. 

In the years since, Mike…and to a lesser extent, Victoria…have covered many miles on motorcycles, although Victoria still maintains a penchant for jets and chauffeured limousines.

Mode of travel aside, now that we’ve visited 100 foreign countries and every continent, the time had come to delve more deeply into the treasures of America. Some of our correspondents, indeed many Americans, have never had the opportunity to deeply explore our nation. Among the scenic splendors of our country, few can match the magic of our National Parks in Arizona and Utah, so we set our sights on a tour starting with the Grand Canyon and continuing to the north. We turned to our partners at Abercrombie & Kent (A&K), and sought the assistance of their regional experts in securing hotels and sightseeing tours as we motored to and from each Park. 

We won’t go into great detail here (though we’d be happy to do so over a glass of wine sometime), but we wanted to share the highlights. We traveled with a couple who started out years ago as clients, and have now become great friends. Mike and Katie grew up, respectively, in Kentucky and Chicago. They have a big family, broad interests, and are avid travelers. And, like us, they have done some travel on two wheels. Nonetheless, neither Victoria or Katie had much of an interest in jetting across the Great Plains on two wheels, opting to fly to Flagstaff. The Two Mikes rendezvoused at Elán’s Northern Outpost in Wisconsin, first fortifying themselves with steak and Scotch in anticipation of their trip west the following morning.  Over the span of three days and about 1,600 miles, they motored across the United States en route to Flagstaff. Though the Midwestern states don’t necessarily offer breathtaking mountains, they do provide an ever-changing landscape of verdant fields, flowers, and forests, as well as the guarantee of friendly faces when an intrepid traveler checks in for the evening.

When traveling on two wheels, there’s never a lack of opportunity for conversation with strangers. Many will tell you that they also ride motorcycles, or did so “back in the day.” And for non-motorcyclists, our BMW and Harley-Davidson motorcycles evoked curiosity among many. As we made our way from the verdant fields of Iowa to the foothills and high desert of the West, it was very clear that the spirit of discovery has been reawakened among Americans and those from abroad. Some of these adventurers were headed in the same direction.

The Two Mikes rolled into Flagstaff, settled into our hotel, and spent that first evening exploring the downtown. Flagstaff is a wonderful town, full of fun shops, coffee houses, and a wide variety of restaurants. The Two Mikes eventually settled in at a Thai restaurant that served absolutely fantastic food and, not unimportantly, Thai beer. 

The next day was when the real fun began. Victoria and Katie flew from Chicago to Flagstaff and joined the “boys.” After a bit of time in downtown Flagstaff we made our way to the Lowell Observatory, high above the city. Our guide, a young women who’s a specialist in planetary science, took us on a brief tour of the facility, then escorted us to the Dyer Telescope for a mind-boggling tour of our solar system and the Milky Way. It really was awe inspiring, but not the first time on the trip when we would confronted with the immensity and beauty of nature.

The next morning we were picked up by our guide, Andrew, and driven to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. However, before beginning our exploration on foot, we hurried to our awaiting helicopter for a hour-long aerial tour of the Grand Canyon. Even traveling at 130 knots (about 150 mph), it seems as though you’re barely gliding above the immense landscape. By the time we landed, the lunch hour had arrived…a picnic on the rim of the Canyon.

The day proceeded with a hike, a sunset view of the Canyon with a glass of wine, and a return to Flagstaff.

Up early the next day, we motored north to enjoy a 4WD/hiking tour of a slot canyon (stunning!), an incomparable lunch experience, and then pointed our wheels towards Zion National Park and Cliffrose Lodge. It was becoming toasty by the time we arrived at the entrance to Zion, and while 104º on two wheels is a character-building experience, the scenery was other worldly.  Arriving at the Cliffrose, we settled into our rooms and rehydrated, then headed a few blocks away to get outfitted for the next morning’s hike through The Narrows. 

It bears mentioning at this point that the staff at the Cliffrose was stellar. They anticipated our every need and cheerfully chauffeured us to our local destinations over out time there. Truly great service. 

The next several days saw us motoring from spectacular landscape to spectacular landscape as we visited Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. In between we sampled some of the West’s unique culinary delights and at least one up and coming resort property that we know is destined to become a top tier destination for discerning travelers.

Each of the Parks was distinctive. In Zion we rode through towering mountains en route to our hotel, and followed up the next day with a hike through The Narrows.

Bryce Canyon, at the top of the Escalante Staircase, offers an other-worldly landscape of hoodoos (amazing rock formations) and some of the most awe-inspiring vistas imaginable.

Capitol Reef introduced us to vast canyon landscapes and…a great surprise…some of the best pie you could ever imagine.

Arches delights with huge rock formations sculpted into whimsical arches by the forces of nature over the millennia. It was here…far from the crowds that we witnessed multiple dinosaur tracks near the Jeep trail.

And Canyonlands presents visitors with a wilderness marked by barely passable backcountry roads.

Much of the delight in this trip came from the exceptional guides we contracted through A&K. Our guide for the Grand Canyon was a young man whose encyclopedic knowledge of the Park’s history, geology, and human history were absolutely staggering. Our trip through Capitol Reef was guided by a retired Utah State Trooper who had spent his whole life in the region and had a deep knowledge of the Park and its environs. The day that we visited Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, we were driven through the backcountry (actually entering the Parks through “secret” entrances) by a retired cowboy who later became a teacher, with an advanced degree in cultural anthropology. Our guide through the Narrows was a free-spirited grandmother who’s a life-long hiker and skier. The guide for our rafting trip on the Colorado River was a young chap who’s spent much of his life on the river and is, coincidentally, a contender for the Olympic snow skiing team. All were amazing, and each contributed greatly to our enjoyment of the Parks.

After days of overwhelming beauty, the adventure culminated with a ride through one of America’s most scenic highways to Grand Junction, Colorado, where Victoria and Katie boarded a jet for a fast—and comparatively luxurious—return home. After saying goodbye, the two Mikes boarded their land jets (motorcycles) for the two-day ride home, at one point passing over the Rockies in driving rain at 42ºF (6. 

Just under 4,000 miles (6,400 km). Six National Parks. At least a thousand “Amazing[s]”. And innumerable laughs. This was all a part of Elán’s continuing quest to experience the world in an ever-evolving way. 

Please enjoy the show (click the photo below, then “Play” to watch)….