Over the years we’ve traveled by a variety of conveyances and stayed in everything from tents to the world’s most luxurious hotels and resorts. We tend to prefer the latter…and our clients generally would agree. But, for Elán, the credo “Travel Beyond” applies to anything and everything beyond one’s day-to-day life. These days we spend a good deal of our time at Borah Borah, our place in Wisconsin, where we trade the conveniences of the City for the allure of wildflowers and fresh air. 

 Our modest rural escape is actually in a pretty special place known as the Driftless Area. This geological island was missed by the recent ice ages that scraped much of the Midwest flat, and remains an area of tall bluffs and deeply carved valleys. Because of this, species that have long been extinct elsewhere have served…in an area also referred by scientists as the Paleozoic Plateau. You should think about visiting us sometime. Seriously.

Over the next few months we will be traveling extensively. We’re presently winging our way to Alaska, where we’ll be visiting some of the most exclusive and remote destinations in North America, including Talkeetna Lodge, Winterlake Lodge, and Sheldon Chalet. After that we’ll be voyaging to the Arctic Circle via England, Norway and Denmark, aboard the stunning Explora I. Then, it will be on to Positano, Italy to spend time exploring the Amalfi Coast.

But, before that, we owed it to ourselves to see a bit of what was in our own backyard. So, we loaded up the Yukon (also known as “The Big Bus”), and set off to explore a bit of Wisconsin.

The first leg of our local trek took us to Villa Bellezza in Pepin, Wisconsin, a remarkable property aimed at replicating an Italian winery. Stopping for lunch, we explored the grounds, then were greeted by Chef Antonio Cecconi, who now heads up the Villa’s culinary program. It’s really a surprising place, set not in Tuscany, but in Wisconsin, near the Mighty Mississippi. Chef Antonio, a native of Sardinia, came to the United States as a young man and has had a storied career in exclusive restaurants and in corporate America. If you’ve ever picked up the Betty Crocker Italian Cookbook, you may recognize him as the author. 

Chef Antonio fed us well…very well…and gave us a tour of the impressive grounds. But, we had miles to cover. The Big Bus then took us to Stockholm, a tiny town (population 78) that has a surprising number of great shops and restaurants. Though we had eaten well at Villa Bellezza, there is always room for pie at the renowned Stockholm Pie and General Store. Mike declared his chocolate cream pie “the best chocolate pie of my life.” Without exaggeration, even if you have to fly, drive or walk thousands of miles, you must visit this place in your lifetime. Elán can charter a jet for you, and we’ll meet you for pie. It will not be a hardship. 

And, yes, Wisconsin does have a “Pie Trail,” which takes the fortunate gastronome to some truly marvelous venues for home-baked pie. 

From Stockholm it was on to our next stop, Wisconsin’s only Relais & Chateaux property, Canoe Bay. Driving to Canoe Bay (www.canoe bay.com) you would not really guess what you’re about to discover there. Miles of farms, rivers, and lakes takes you to a sign on Hogback Road which signals you’ve arrived. 

Exquisite. Really, that’s probably the one word that summarizes it all. Arriving at the reception building, we were greeted by a cascading waterfall fountain, mounds of flowers, and an immaculate, understated lodge that provides the first hint of how special a place this is. Meredith welcomed us at the reception desk and escorted us to our Lakeside Cottage. This and all of the buildings on the property are inspired by the Frank Lloyd Wright school of architectural design. Two were designed by one of his protégés, and the others were designed and built in a complementary style. Again, exquisite. 

This was a celebration of Victoria’s birthday, and we were greeted with a beautiful display of flowers, a lovely charcuterie plate, and a bottle of chilled Larmandier-Bernier Brut Champagne. Meredith gave us a quick tour of our cottage, then excused herself. We relaxed for a bit, anticipating the next (best?) part of our visit, a private dinner in the Inn’s Wine Cellar, prepared and served by Chef Joy. Canoe Bay is known not only for its exquisite setting and architecture, but also for a truly unbelievable culinary program, headed by Joy and a tremendously talented team.

Then it was back to our cottage for an evening of relaxation. Awakening the next morning and peering out the window, the beauty of the sylvan vista promised that a wonderful day awaited.

Breakfast and lunch are brought to each guest cottage by the staff. Served in imaginative pottery containers, their delicious dishes arrive piping hot and presented beautifully. We enjoyed breakfast in our cottage--very civilized—and then we were off for a walking tour. We met John the Gardener, a Danish immigrant who manages the entire landscape maintenance and gardening operation nearly on his own. He showed us the way to the resort’s expansive garden, which supplies most of the produce used by the kitchen. Though it was early springtime, some of the produce was ready for harvest, representing an incredible amount of work on John’s part.

A stroll around the resort takes you through lush woodlands and glistening lakes, all in quiet solitude. Later we spent some time in the Lodge, which serves as the resort’s library, offering a truly great variety of books that span history, art, and nature. It’s a real “Wow!” that is sure to impress the most discerning bibliophile.

Mostly, though, Canoe Bay is a place for relaxation, which is how we spent the balance of our time there. It wasn’t all that difficult in our beautiful cottage overlooking a lake, with countless birds providing the soundtrack. The occasional deer graced us with her presence, as well. 

Beyond that, we simply enjoyed an unhurried day at Canoe Bay, with lunch and dinner in our cottage, interspersed with a drive around the area, a resort haven for midwesterners. A great way to unwind.

After two nights it was time to return to Elán’s Northern Outpost (Borah Borah), but we lingered a bit along the way. We stopped at an outdoor market where we bought a couple of wooden pens that were handmade by an industrious young gent of about 10 years of age, then drove on to La Crosse where we were compelled to visit Meringue Bakery, owned by Jen Barney, a three-time winner of The Food Channel’s baking competitions. Rounding out the pie theme of our trip, we opted for a savory hand pie that was mighty delicious, after which we set our final course for Borah Borah. And, yes, we have to confess that we bought a cookie. 

Rolling into the driveway of Borah Borah, we took a few moments to reflect on what was a really beautiful getaway. Not the same as hiking in Nepal or visiting Versailles, but equally rewarding in providing an opportunity to relax and reflect in a beautiful nearby place. 

Having visited over 100 countries, it’s sometimes easy to forget the treasures nearby—great food and unique resort properties that celebrate local culture are often within easy driving distance. While we encourage our friends and clients to see all the world has to offer, we also are able to help them find unique experiences, like Canoe Bay (and the Pie Trail) nearer to home. Travel Beyond…but don’t forget the nearby treasures.

Have you ever longed to take a trip where you were treated like royalty from the time you left your home, and at every step along the way? At Elán we strive for that feeling for every client on every trip, and nowhere is that experienced in greater abundance than on the private jet trips we arrange for our clients.

This is not an entirely new experience, but it’s emerged as a preferred way to travel for many. Travelers avoid the crowds and hassles of commercial air travel, and find that they are generally whisked from destination to destination. Rather than shuffling through crowded security and immigration lines, private jet travelers receive individualized attention in a more private setting. And, once aboard the level of service—including fine cuisine—is far above that of any airline. 

Since 2020 our clients have placed increasing emphasis on the safety, security, and comforts of private jet travel, so I was intrigued and thrilled when I received an invitation from Abercrombie & Kent (A&K) to experience their private jet on a trip to Iceland.

A&K has been offering private jet itineraries for several years, and is certainly among the leaders in this segment. To join this exclusive trip I flew from Chicago to Boston, and stayed overnight at the beautiful Newbury Hotel before being picked up by private limo to meet my A&K Private Jet in person. While it was to be a short trip, I was able to experience every facet of a genuine A&K Private Jet, from the expedited check-in in the private lounge of a Fixed Base Operator (FBO), to the luxurious in-flight experience, complete with caviar and Dom Perignon Champagne, to the exclusive ground experience upon arrival, to the amazing expedition leaders…all a part of the A&K Private Jet experience. 

The aircraft is a Boeing 757, configured to provide First Class-Plus comfort for each guest. As you’ll see in the photos below, the plane harkens back to the day of elegant air travel, adding luxury in-flight touches well beyond those most have ever experienced. The atmosphere is elegant and comfortable, and the flight attendants are attuned to providing flawless service. It truly is the way to travel.

Arriving in Keflavik, we again were met with an exclusive experience…processed through immigration in a private setting…and were soon on our way to experience anmazing Iceland. The next few days we enjoyed Iceland A&K-style. Each day we partook of the finest local food, accommodations and experiences, including an exclusive retreat at the Blue Lagoon (where we enjoyed private changing rooms, an elegant spa, and privacy from the crowds. We stayed in a remote eco-luxury resort  in the heart of Iceland’s Golden Circle (Torfhus Retreat, where Icelandic culture meets modern standards). At this unique property we were treated to a show of the aurora borealis; snowmobiling on a glacier; and trekking on high-tech overland vehicles.

​Throughout our time in Iceland, we were treated to A&K’s exceptional level of service and attention to detail. Boarding our private jet back to Boston, we once again felt the amazing touches of A&K’s highly professional air and ground crews.

It was a brief taste of the A&K Private Jet experience, but one that clearly demonstrated the considerable appeal of this exclusive mode of travel. For those who choose to be part of it, the Private Jet offers the opportunity to deeply immerse in a large number of destinations in a manner that is supremely comfortable and highly efficient. You are, after all, traveling on your own jet!

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Victoria just returned from another trip, visiting beautiful Hacienda AltaGracia in Costa Rica, then journeying through the Panama Canal on the exclusive Ritz Carlton Private Yacht, Evrima. These two experiences were the perfect complement to one another, with AltaGracia rated one of the world’s top 50 luxury resorts and Evrima representing a level of seagoing luxury formerly unattainable without personal access to one’s own yacht.

Evrima will be featuring seagoing journeys to destinations around the world. A visit to Costa Rica…a relatively short flight from Chicago…was the perfect prelude.  Arriving at the international airport in San José Victoria was whisked to remote AltaGracia by private aircraft. The flight was short in duration, but took her into Costa Rica’s coffee plantation region, an area that is otherwise difficult to reach (at least in any reasonable amount of time).

Auberge has taken a distinctly different path to luxury than many of its competitors, compiling a collection of unique properties that are distinctive from one another, but reflective of an ethos of high quality and attention to detail for the luxury traveler. And, so it is with AltaGracia

AltaGracia is located near to one of the world’s “Blue Zones,” areas noted for longevity and health among their residents. The lessons of wellness gleaned from being in this location are reflected in the cuisine, health treatments, and serenity experienced by guests. Victoria engaged in a variety of these activities during her stay. The sumptuously appointed guest rooms impart serenity. The cuisine centers on local ingredients (mostly grown or harvested within ten miles of AltaGracia). And the spa, The Well, offers truly unique health-oriented experiences that focus on the resort’s unique location (https://aubergeresorts.com/altagracia/). 

While at AltaGracia, Victoria took part in a coffee tasting experience that went into extraordinary detail on differing presentations, took in a river mud bath spa experience, as well as an equestrian demonstration.
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Here are a few photos from Victoria’s AltaGracia experience:

Leaving AltaGracia, Victoria again took a turboprop aircraft back to San Jose, where she boarded Evrima, the first of the Ritz-Carlton Yachts. Launched only a few months ago, Evrima offers guests the luxuries that we have come to associate with Ritz-Carlton properties with the casual freedom of life aboard a private yacht.

Victoria has experienced a wide range of ocean-going voyages, and her time aboard Evrima confirmed the Ritz-Carlton promise that this would be a distinctly different experience than an ordinary cruise. 

This was a short cruise that combined business (the Marriott Luxury Brands board meeting) with a chance for Victoria to familiarize herself with an entirely new way of traveling at sea. Ultimately, Evrima took its guests through the Panama Canal, in itself a unique destination.

Evrima (and her two sister yachts that are now under construction) offers an intimate and elegant alternative to the huge ships that have come to define the cruise industry. These yachts each offer 149 suites, each with a private balcony, and the maximum guest capacity is capped at 298. Suites vary in size, and among them are Loft Suites, which are two-level accommodations. The suites are evocative of a luxury resort, offering spacious accommodations, fantastic bathrooms, and all the comforts of a fine hotel.

Currently offering voyages in the Caribbean and Mediterranean, as well as crossing voyages, Evrima affords each guest a personal concierge and a staff:guest ratio that ensures detailed attention to your every need. Suites are spacious and appointed in the manner one would normally expect from a luxury hotel or resort. The cuisine aboard is more akin to an exclusive restaurant. And, the staff is, of course, trained in the Ritz-Carlton tradition. Here are a few examples of life aboard Evrima:

Some time ago we were called upon to offer our advice for a new product: a fleet of ships unrivaled in every way that would exceed all previous expectations of ocean voyagers while satisfying the most discerning aficionados of fine hotels and resorts. We are now on the cusp of a new age in ocean travel, one defined by ships, crew members, and experiences that set new standards. 

We are thrilled to have the opportunity to be among those who will experience the Inaugural Voyage of the first of these ships, Explora I, and we invite you to join us on a truly memorable sailing. We will be embarking from Southampton, England on July 17, 2023 and voyaging north to the Fjords of Norway and the Arctic Circle, ultimately finishing our voyage in Copenhagen, Denmark.

Explora I will offer extraordinary accommodations in luxurious suites, carefully curated cuisine in her seven restaurants, and tailored explorations ashore as we visit numerous ports of call on this beautiful voyage.

We’re looking forward to our return to this awe-inspiring part of the world. The memories of our first visit to Norway are still vivid…sparkling waters, breathtaking fjords, and unique historical settlements made it one of the truly memorable trips of our lives. We were living in England at the time, and one evening met a couple and their young daughter who, we learned, lived a short distance from our Oxfordshire home. We became fast friends, and over the years have visited one another in the States and in England. Experiences like these are why we’ve chosen this profession, which offers the opportunity to experience the world in a unique way and to make lifelong connections with others.

It’s a foregone conclusion that the places we visit will be beautiful, but equally important, every aspect of your journey has been carefully planned. This preview of the restaurants aboard Explora I provides a glimpse of the attention to the excellence that we will experience on the Inaugural: ​

​Of course, the suites from which you can choose are equally beautiful.

It would be wonderful to have you join us on this journey. And, should you be contemplating a way to celebrate a special occasion in your life, or simply looking for the ideal holiday gift for someone dear to you, the Explora I Inaugural may well be the answer.

Explora I is not a huge ship, and Inaugural sailings are always in high demand among seasoned explorers. We would urge you to act now to reserve your place in maritime history, joining us as we ply the waters of England, Norway, and the Arctic. Please reach out to Victoria at vboomgarden@elantravel.net or phone her at +1 630.420.3538 for more details.

Elán has been “🎼 On the road again🎶” (apologies to Willie Nelson). This time we changed it up even more than usual, traveling the American West by motorcycle. Among the things you may not know about us, Mike has been motoring on two wheels since he was around ten years old, when his older brother presented him with a Sears minibike. 

In the years since, Mike…and to a lesser extent, Victoria…have covered many miles on motorcycles, although Victoria still maintains a penchant for jets and chauffeured limousines.

Mode of travel aside, now that we’ve visited 100 foreign countries and every continent, the time had come to delve more deeply into the treasures of America. Some of our correspondents, indeed many Americans, have never had the opportunity to deeply explore our nation. Among the scenic splendors of our country, few can match the magic of our National Parks in Arizona and Utah, so we set our sights on a tour starting with the Grand Canyon and continuing to the north. We turned to our partners at Abercrombie & Kent (A&K), and sought the assistance of their regional experts in securing hotels and sightseeing tours as we motored to and from each Park. 

We won’t go into great detail here (though we’d be happy to do so over a glass of wine sometime), but we wanted to share the highlights. We traveled with a couple who started out years ago as clients, and have now become great friends. Mike and Katie grew up, respectively, in Kentucky and Chicago. They have a big family, broad interests, and are avid travelers. And, like us, they have done some travel on two wheels. Nonetheless, neither Victoria or Katie had much of an interest in jetting across the Great Plains on two wheels, opting to fly to Flagstaff. The Two Mikes rendezvoused at Elán’s Northern Outpost in Wisconsin, first fortifying themselves with steak and Scotch in anticipation of their trip west the following morning.  Over the span of three days and about 1,600 miles, they motored across the United States en route to Flagstaff. Though the Midwestern states don’t necessarily offer breathtaking mountains, they do provide an ever-changing landscape of verdant fields, flowers, and forests, as well as the guarantee of friendly faces when an intrepid traveler checks in for the evening.

When traveling on two wheels, there’s never a lack of opportunity for conversation with strangers. Many will tell you that they also ride motorcycles, or did so “back in the day.” And for non-motorcyclists, our BMW and Harley-Davidson motorcycles evoked curiosity among many. As we made our way from the verdant fields of Iowa to the foothills and high desert of the West, it was very clear that the spirit of discovery has been reawakened among Americans and those from abroad. Some of these adventurers were headed in the same direction.

The Two Mikes rolled into Flagstaff, settled into our hotel, and spent that first evening exploring the downtown. Flagstaff is a wonderful town, full of fun shops, coffee houses, and a wide variety of restaurants. The Two Mikes eventually settled in at a Thai restaurant that served absolutely fantastic food and, not unimportantly, Thai beer. 

The next day was when the real fun began. Victoria and Katie flew from Chicago to Flagstaff and joined the “boys.” After a bit of time in downtown Flagstaff we made our way to the Lowell Observatory, high above the city. Our guide, a young women who’s a specialist in planetary science, took us on a brief tour of the facility, then escorted us to the Dyer Telescope for a mind-boggling tour of our solar system and the Milky Way. It really was awe inspiring, but not the first time on the trip when we would confronted with the immensity and beauty of nature.

The next morning we were picked up by our guide, Andrew, and driven to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. However, before beginning our exploration on foot, we hurried to our awaiting helicopter for a hour-long aerial tour of the Grand Canyon. Even traveling at 130 knots (about 150 mph), it seems as though you’re barely gliding above the immense landscape. By the time we landed, the lunch hour had arrived…a picnic on the rim of the Canyon.

The day proceeded with a hike, a sunset view of the Canyon with a glass of wine, and a return to Flagstaff.

Up early the next day, we motored north to enjoy a 4WD/hiking tour of a slot canyon (stunning!), an incomparable lunch experience, and then pointed our wheels towards Zion National Park and Cliffrose Lodge. It was becoming toasty by the time we arrived at the entrance to Zion, and while 104º on two wheels is a character-building experience, the scenery was other worldly.  Arriving at the Cliffrose, we settled into our rooms and rehydrated, then headed a few blocks away to get outfitted for the next morning’s hike through The Narrows. 

It bears mentioning at this point that the staff at the Cliffrose was stellar. They anticipated our every need and cheerfully chauffeured us to our local destinations over out time there. Truly great service. 

The next several days saw us motoring from spectacular landscape to spectacular landscape as we visited Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. In between we sampled some of the West’s unique culinary delights and at least one up and coming resort property that we know is destined to become a top tier destination for discerning travelers.

Each of the Parks was distinctive. In Zion we rode through towering mountains en route to our hotel, and followed up the next day with a hike through The Narrows.

Bryce Canyon, at the top of the Escalante Staircase, offers an other-worldly landscape of hoodoos (amazing rock formations) and some of the most awe-inspiring vistas imaginable.

Capitol Reef introduced us to vast canyon landscapes and…a great surprise…some of the best pie you could ever imagine.

Arches delights with huge rock formations sculpted into whimsical arches by the forces of nature over the millennia. It was here…far from the crowds that we witnessed multiple dinosaur tracks near the Jeep trail.

And Canyonlands presents visitors with a wilderness marked by barely passable backcountry roads.

Much of the delight in this trip came from the exceptional guides we contracted through A&K. Our guide for the Grand Canyon was a young man whose encyclopedic knowledge of the Park’s history, geology, and human history were absolutely staggering. Our trip through Capitol Reef was guided by a retired Utah State Trooper who had spent his whole life in the region and had a deep knowledge of the Park and its environs. The day that we visited Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, we were driven through the backcountry (actually entering the Parks through “secret” entrances) by a retired cowboy who later became a teacher, with an advanced degree in cultural anthropology. Our guide through the Narrows was a free-spirited grandmother who’s a life-long hiker and skier. The guide for our rafting trip on the Colorado River was a young chap who’s spent much of his life on the river and is, coincidentally, a contender for the Olympic snow skiing team. All were amazing, and each contributed greatly to our enjoyment of the Parks.

After days of overwhelming beauty, the adventure culminated with a ride through one of America’s most scenic highways to Grand Junction, Colorado, where Victoria and Katie boarded a jet for a fast—and comparatively luxurious—return home. After saying goodbye, the two Mikes boarded their land jets (motorcycles) for the two-day ride home, at one point passing over the Rockies in driving rain at 42ºF (6. 

Just under 4,000 miles (6,400 km). Six National Parks. At least a thousand “Amazing[s]”. And innumerable laughs. This was all a part of Elán’s continuing quest to experience the world in an ever-evolving way. 

Please enjoy the show (click the photo below, then “Play” to watch)….

A photo of a motorcycle on Elán’s blog?

Yes, that’s right. This was taken as Mike conducted the final “preflight” inspection in preparation for an epic American voyage, which starts on September 2, 2022.

Victoria and Mike will be away from the office on Elán’s Great American Tour through September 18th. We will be traveling by motorcycle on a tour of many of our great National Parks…Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Arches and Canyonlands…planned in conjunction with our partners at Abercrombie & Kent. We’ll be helicoptering over the Grand Canyon, hiking Zion’s famed Narrows, and taking 4x4 tours through some of the dramatic scenery on Earth. 

During this trip we will be staying a some of America’s unique lodges, and partaking of some great meals at the best restaurants in the West.

Please be sure to watch our progress as we travel beyond to partake of the American West; we hope you’ll join us by following our Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/elan.travelbeyond) and checking our updates here.

Peru…The Warmest Place on Earth?

No, we aren’t referring to heat, but rather to the incredible kindness and warmth of the Peruvian people. We’ve said this before, but in the realm of travel in which we work, beautiful properties are a given. What sets any destination apart from the others is one’s experience with the people. Our recent trip to Peru proved an excellent lesson in learning how kind and generous one’s hosts can be. In fact, at every turn we were met with smiling faces and warm embraces. You will love the Peruvian people.

Equally impressive are the art, history, and culture of Peru, evolved over millennia and on full display for the visitor.

For us, it was time to reacquaint ourselves with the leaders in Peruvian hospitality, Belmond. During our time in Peru we visited Belmond’s Miraflores Park (in Lima), Rio Sagrado (in the Sacred Valley), Sanctuary Lodge (at Machu Picchu), and Monasterio (Cusco). Keeping everything in the Belmond family, we hired guides from Journeys in Peru (their local onsite service) and traveled to and from Machu Picchu on PeruRail trains (specifically their Vistadome train to the site and the legendary Hiram Bingham train on our return to Cusco).

Here’s the tale:

Flying from Chicago to Lima via Houston found us arriving around 11:00 pm on a Friday evening. This was an opportunity to evaluate another of our VIP assistance partners…and it was spectacular. After transiting from our arrival gate to the luggage claim area we were met by Ana Maria, who escorted us directly to the VIP lounge. For those checking baggage, your VIP contact in Lima collects your bags, but we opted for carry-on only (we’ll write more about that topic someday). The VIP lounge was beautiful, decorated with modern Peruvian art, and we spent a few minutes relaxing there before Ana Maria took us to the VIP/diplomatic line for processing. A health worker was summoned to check our CDC cards, and we were then immediately walked to the customs/immigration desk where a Peruvian official greeted us and has us on our way within about two minutes. 

We were immediately taken to Belmond’s Miraflores Park, which served as our home for the next three nights. Located in one of Lima’s most beautiful areas and across the boulevard from the ocean overlook, Miraflores Park offers a comfortable home away from home, as well as beautiful dining and cocktail venues. We retired to the rooftop bar and restaurant and took in the sights before turning in for the night. Our timing was fortuitous, and the next morning we met with our colleague Mary Anne Donlon and her husband Tom for an early breakfast. Mary Anne and Tom were on a somewhat parallel itinerary, and we loved connecting with them in Lima and once later in our trip. It’s always exciting to spend time abroad with others with whom you are close, even if for a quick meal. 

The next day we set off on a tour of Lima with the first of our Journeys in Peru guides, Kika. A cultured and fun-loving woman with an encyclopedic knowledge of Lima, she took us to a number of the city’s most beautiful and historic sites. Lima is situated on the oceanfront, and largely infused with the energy and vibe of a seaside city. Beautiful parks abound. But perhaps the most impressive part of our tour was our visit to the Larco Museum. One’s visit to the Museum is immediately awe-inspiring, as it is the home to what has been described as one of the world’s most beautiful gardens. Flowers abound, and it’s incredibly beautiful. 

But, what’s even more impressive is the collection of ancient Incan artifacts. Room after room is filled with perfectly preserved pottery vessels, sculptures, apparel and tapestries. Under Kika’s expert guidance we explored a great deal of the museum, which provided our first glimpse into the incredibly advanced artistry and science of pre-Colombian South America. The Larco is a must-see for every visitor to Peru. Stunning.

Prior to arriving in Lima we had asked for our hosts’ restaurant recommendations. Not an easy task, since Lima is the home to multiple Michelin-Star restaurants and considered one of the world’s top culinary destinations. However, there was no hesitation in the recommendation: Mayta. There’s a small fleet of Mercedes sedans constantly on standby outside the hotel, and we arrived at Mayta not quite knowing whether it was going to be a formal experience. However, far from it, Mayta turned out to be casual, with impeccable service and creative cuisine (and cocktails)…all in a very comfortable setting. And, like everything we encountered in Peru, when the bill came the only surprise was how reasonable it was. 

Lima is a city of contrasts. Some of it reflects a hardscrabble way of life experienced by its residents, but the parks and Spanish-influenced architecture are a real marvel. There was a substantial army of public employees constantly cleaning the streets and parks in Miraflores, and we felt comfortable walking the streets on our own the next day, which was a “free” day in which we called all the shots. Shopping, strolling, and finding another fun restaurant on the oceanfront (courtesy of the concierge’s recommendation) were the perfect prelude to the adventures that were about to unfold the next day. 

The following morning, Ana Maria was waiting for us as we checked out from Miraflores Park. She took us to our waiting van, whisked us to the airport and escorted us through the check-in process for our flight to Cusco. This level of attention to our comfort, convenience in security is something we’ve only ever experienced in one other setting…on safari in Africa with a partner whom we consider the world’s top safari company. Sometimes just winging it is fun, but it’s also supremely relaxing to know that you’re in the hands attentive experts who know the ropes.

The 90-minute flight to Cusco takes you over stunning Andean vistas, and when you land in Cusco you may be a bit short of breath since you’re at over 11,000 feet in elevation. This is where we met our second Journeys in Peru angel, Nancy (Nancy is, by the way her real name…though of Incan and Spanish descent, her mom was inspired by the name of a Hollywood star she saw in a subtitled American movie). Again, it was a wholly comfortable arrival experience. Nancy took us immediately to our car, where our driver, Felipe, helped us load our luggage and drove us roughly two hours to Peru’s famous Sacred Valley. Inhabited for millennia by the Incas and their predecessors, it’s clear to see why those ancient Peruvians revered the beauty of this valley and the majesty of its mountains. Along the way we stopped to walk the streets of some of the local villages, visited a textile center where we saw some incredible artistry in hand-produced tapestries, and spent some quality time with alpacas and llamas. 

Arriving at Belmond’s Rio Sagrado, a couple of hours from Cusco, is an exercise in sensory overload. The small town is, truthfully, not all that different than the other agricultural villages in the Sacred Valley, but the moment you enter Rio Sagrado the sights and sounds that greet you are overwhelmingly beautiful. Set on the edge of the Urubamba River, the sound of rushing water is a relaxing natural sonata that provides a backdrop to your time there. The grounds are beautiful, with baby llamas grazing peacefully on the lawn, and the accommodations themselves are…well…you’ll just have to look at the photos. We were assigned a beautiful villa and, after settling in, made our way to the restaurant. Heeding Nancy’s advice, we enjoyed a light dinner and a cocktail, then fighting the shortage of oxygen (still at over 8,000 feet), we made our way back to our villa, where the staff had started a roaring fire. A bit of champagne, a wee bit of chocolate, and we called it a night. 

The next day, after breakfast, Nancy and Felipe were waiting for us. We spent a full day touring the Sacred Valley, with a breathtaking (in more ways than one) visit to a llama farm, a local market town, and, finally, to the Nilda Callañaupa Workshop. We spent quite a bit of time with Nilda, who has devoted her life to preserving ancient handicrafts. The weavings she features are those of local artisans who engage in every step of the creative process, from harvesting the wool to dyeing, spinning, an weaving incredible tapestries. Nilda’s efforts have been featured in National Geographic magazine; she is a true cultural treasure who has single-handedly preserved some of Peru’s most important artistic traditions.

Throughout all of these experiences, Nancy’s tremendous command of Peru’s history and its ancient cultures greatly enhanced our understanding of the art, science and architecture that we were experiencing. It added a layer to our experience that one simply cannot get from a guide book.

We were looking forward with great anticipation to our visit to Machu Picchu, one of the great wonders of the Ancient World. That morning Nancy took us to explore Ollantaytambo, an impressive Incan fortress in the Sacred Valley, followed by a superb picnic with Nancy and Felipe. Then, on to catch our train to Machu Picchu. Our excitement built at we boarded the Vistadome train en route to this amazing place, and as we got closer the wide open expanses of Sacred Valley gave way to impossibly steep mountains, and a rain forest environment, seeing a variety of orchids along the way. We were even treated to a native song commemorating our 45th anniversary! All was going well…until…Nancy approached us quietly and told us in a hushed tone that our hopes of an overnight visit at Sanctuary Lodge had been dashed! 

Listening to Nancy in near disbelief, she told us that a protest had been planned for the next day, with the likelihood that the sole train line would be blocked for a couple of days. 

A little stunned, Nancy assured us that Belmond, Journeys in Peru and the staff of the Hiram Bingham had us covered. 

***
Interrupting for a commercial announcement*…In the past we’ve encountered situations in which clients have experienced unpredictable events—illness, family crises, and, in one case, a home that had burned to the ground—and that is when true professionalism shines through. Though the impending train cancellations were hardly catastrophic, it meant that a number of things had to happen: We would go immediately to the Citadel after a brief stop at Sanctuary Lodge, we would be given an astounding tour Nancy that extended one hour past the site’s closing time (including a touching Incan blessing), we would be shuttled back to the fully booked Hiram Bingham train, and upon arrival back in Cuzco, we would be escorted to one of Monasterio’s top accommodations, the Bishop’s Suite.  

Lemons to lemonade. Multiple “impossible” changes, all accomplished seamlessly. All because we were in the hands of top professionals, and traveling with…Our. Amazing. Nancy. 
***

But, let us return to the experience at Machu Picchu. Though we had less time there than we had originally planned, there are few things in life that compare to the moment you step out of the forested path and see the ancient city before you. It’s an astounding tribute to the genius of the Incans. And, thankfully, it’s incredibly preserved. Until you visit—and you must visit—it’s not apparent how improbable this was…sited in the midst of unimaginably steep mountains in a rain forest, the ancient Incans managed to move and hew massive boulders to create a wondrous place. Then, having disappeared centuries ago, nature took over the Incans’ treasured city and concealed Machu Picchu until its existence was revealed to Hiram Bingham in the early 20th century. It’s impressive in every way, and if you don’t tear up a bit with emotion when you first see it…. Well, you’ll tear up.

After our expansive tour of Machu Picchu, Nancy accompanied us to the train station. The Hiram Bingham was “sold out,” but calls had been made. A conversation with a harried clerk had us all nervously checking our watches, but we boarded the Hiram Bingham with minutes to spare. It’s a beautiful train, furnished in a livery reminiscent of Belmond’s other great trains such as the Venice-Simplon Orient Express (VSOE) and the legendary Royal Scotsman. 

The unhurried trip back to Cusco began with Champagne and cocktails, after which we were summoned to the bar car (“Pisco sour, please.”). It started off sedately. Then the musical duo struck up a song. And another song. And soon the Latin American zest for life was turned to 110%, with the crowd singing familiar (to them) Latin songs, and dancing with astounding energy. Again, we were toasted for 45 years of marriage and shouts of “Don’t go!” filled the car as we made our way back to our table for a gourmet multi-course meal. 
Really, it was an emotional roller coaster—in a matter of just a few hours, we went from the deflating news of the likely railroad closure and an abbreviated visit to Machu Picchu, to a fantastic voyage aboard one of the world’s great trains, surrounded by a celebratory crowd reveling in one of those magical experiences that only happens when the stars align. 
​

Pulling into the station at Cusco we were met by our driver who was to us to Belmond’s beautiful Monasterio Hotel. Once again, the hotel was “sold out,” but calls had been made. As we alluded to earlier, they not only took care of us, they took care of us in a big way, escorting us to the beautiful Bishop’s Suite. One enters the suite through a massive ancient door, and inside finds exquisite murals still on the walls. Of course, in the Belmond style, the suite was beautifully furnished and supremely comfortable.

Everything about Monasterio was fantastic. The serene inner courtyard is open for meals and coffee or cocktails. On our second night there we dined in the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, enjoying a performance by members of the Cusco Opera. With an additional day in Cusco we did a great deal of touring…one full day with Nancy and our driver, Felipe, and the rest on our own. Despite the warnings that the city has its share of pickpockets, we felt entirely safe and comfortable when we were on our own. One is frequently approached by people selling inexpensive souvenirs, but the impossibly friendly and courteous Peruvian demeanor means that a polite “No, gracias” is met with a smile and a willingness to let you pass.

Cusco fully displays the clash of cultures that occurred centuries ago when the Catholic Spanish encountered Incan tradition and religion. European architecture is often found overlaid on Incan structures, and even the religious symbols found in its churches and cathedrals reflect an effort to incorporate Incan and Christian symbology, all in an effort to effect conversion. While this was a violent time in Peruvian history, today one finds that the people embrace their fascinating past, which has led to a vibrant culture that honors both traditions.

On the outskirts of the City we visited the huge Incan fortress known as Sacsayhuaman and other Incan edifices. The precise uses and symbolism found in these sites is sometimes elusive since the Incans lacked a written language, but there are times when the sites reveal ancient Incan traditions, including that of human sacrifice. 

After three nights at Monasterio, it was time for our return home. Our flight back to the States departed a bit after midnight, so we had arranged for a dayroom at an airport hotel that was mere steps from the terminal. Basic accommodations, but incredibly convenient. We had a good meal there before our Journeys in Peru escort arrived to take us back to the same VIP/Diplomatic lounge we had visited upon our arrival. Having checked in, it was a comfortable way to pass the final two hours prior to our departure. The trip home was, blessedly, uneventful.

This has been one of our longer posts, but even so it captures only a fleeting glimpse of this voyage of discovery. The beauty and history of Peru is undeniable, and our short visit provided a meaningful voyage into the country’s remarkable history and culture, as well as a reminder of why Peru is perennially favored by those who value the kindness and authenticity of its people.

On a professional level, we used this trip to evaluate our Belmond partners. The properties at which we stayed were beautiful and, in the Belmond tradition, each reflected a unique identity and sense of place. Service was uniformly outstanding. Food and beverages top notch.

What really stands out, however, is the fact that we had—without exception—overwhelmingly positive dealings with our Belmond counterparts. From the flawless assistance with our initial planning through to the unflappable display of adaptability in the face of the unexpected by our guide Nancy, we experienced graciousness, attention to detail, and assertive confidence to professionally handle every situation. In our debriefing with Max Snytin, our principal point of contact at Belmond, we told him that we’ve seldom experienced this level of confidence in our hosts. 

Extraordinary Peru. Extraordinary Belmond. We’re proud to be their partners in providing memorable travel experiences to our clients. We urge you to put Peru on your “Must Visit” list.

Travel Beyond….

We just returned from a whirlwind trip to Portugal, our first in several years. This was an action-packed voyage, ranging from the Algarve Coast in the south to the Douro Valley in the North, along with time in Lisbon and Porto. Over the course of ten days, we visited a large number of hotels and resorts, and visited some of the country’s iconic tourist destinations. 

The verdict? Incredible!

Let’s start with our immediate overall impressions: Portugal represents an incredible value for American visitors. We were repeatedly surprised by the extremely reasonable cost for accommodations in fine hotels and resorts, and astounded by the affordability of excellent food and wine. Our clientele is not one that would be considered budget-driven, but everyone appreciates good value, and Portugal delivers it at every turn.

Now, a few details…

Throughout this trip we were driven in luxurious Mercedes vehicles supplied by Tempo-VIP, a Destination Management Company owned and operated by Danilo Cerqueira. Danilo, who accompanied us through much of our time in Portugal, is an energetic and creative ambassador for Portugal. The itinerary he created in conjunction with TL Portfolio (owned by our good friend Tina Lyra) was chock full of incredible properties and experiences. And, more importantly, it demonstrated that Tempo-VIP is a reliable and professional partner to whom we can turn for our clients’ needs for their Portugal visits. While our personal knowledge base is considerable, we rely on our network of experts throughout the world to help us build world class itineraries for our clients. Partners like Danilo and Tina are an indispensable part of our worldwide team.

We travel often, but seldom take vacations…this trip was aimed at evaluating for our clients the hottest destination of 2022. We hit the ground running. We had barely checked in to the Four Seasons Ritz when Danilo took us on a whirlwind tour of Lisbon hotels. The Four Seasons merits special mention for its beautifully renovated rooms and public spaces, the latter featuring important artwork by Portuguese artists. In addition, Danilo accompanied us to a number of Lisbon’s hotels over the next two days, meeting with the general managers and evaluating their room offerings, restaurants, and guest amenities

The collection we visited was impressive. We noted a number of favorites and throughout our tour we were frankly astonished at the incredible value, with room rates for exceptional suites substantially below the prices elsewhere in Europe. A sampling is included in the slideshow below. We visited dozens of properties, and while we don’t have the space here to review each of them, we came away with a good sense of the value and individual sense of place offered by each. 

Our tour of Lisbon included a sailboat ride on the Tagus River, providing a unique perspective on this historic city, a point from which many of history’s most famous adventurers embarked on seafaring expeditions. From this perspective, one gets a better understanding of Portugal’s place in history and the vibrant nature of the city. It is an exciting place!

The following day we visited two of Portugal’s national treasures, Quinta da Regaleir, an elaborate and fanciful estate located near the historic center of Sintra, and then Pena National Palace, which dates back to 1839, when the King Consort D. Fernando II of Saxe Coburgo-Gotha acquired the ruins of the Jerónimo Monastery of Nossa Senhora da Pena and started its adaptation to the fanciful structure modeled on Bavarian palaces of the era.

Bidding farewell to Lisbon, we journeyed on to the Alantejo region, which provided one of the great surprises…and delights…of our trip to Portugal: Herdade da Malhandinha Nova (HDMA) (https://www.malhadinhanova.pt/en/). This sprawling property, comprised of a winery and unique accommodations scattered throughout 450 hectares (a little over 1,100 acres) is astounding in every way. The brainchild of the Soares family, the estate exudes creativity, style and passion in every detail, from the exquisitely decorated homes to the picture perfect stables to the carefully curated vineyards. 

We were greeted by Rita Soares, the CEO, who ushered us into the tasting room for an introduction to the estate’s award-winning wines, and brief introduction to its history and the family’s vision. From there we were taken to our stunning accommodations, beautifully appointed rooms centered around a large, modern living space with an open kitchen, sumptuous furniture and a bar that sits opposite a vintage Steinway piano. Pure magic.

Throughout our stay, Rita and her husband João lavished us with time and attention. We’ve never known more gracious hosts…they joined us at dinner each night and arranged for Portugal’s most renowned chef, Joachim Koerper, to oversee a lunch that could only be described as spectacular. We met other members of the family, gawked at João‘s motorcycle collection, visited the stables, and toured the estate by ATVs and Land Rovers.

If we seem effusive, it’s because this is one of the most astounding properties we’ve experienced in more than 40 years in the travel profession. You simply have to put it on your dream list. We will be back.

From that point we ventured south to the Algarve, Portugal’s southern coast, a place of expansive beaches and endless sunshine. En route we visited a Roman temple, a Chapel of Bones, and a delightful hilltop town where we were treated to an authentic local tavern meal. Delicious!

Arriving on the coast, we were met on a hillside high above the ocean by the manager of the Grand House, who plied us with fresh local oysters and Champagne, before we went on to the Grand Beach Club, a seaside restaurant owned by the hotel and available exclusively to hotel guests, where we met with a good friend from the hotel industry. Amazing food. Great conversation. Then, on to the nearby hotel…an intimate, beautifully appointed property across the street from the waters of the port. All of this within eyesight of Spain, which lies just across the Guadiana River (note for those interested in visiting Spain: Barcelona is only an hour away!).

Another amazing meal, followed by a round of exquisite Port (and cigars!). This was a fairly quick visit, but offered valuable insight into a beautiful property in a location favored by those who lean toward abundant sunshine and salty breezes.

As with any great journey, this was about the point that we started looking at the remaining itinerary with the wistful sorrow that the trip’s end was just days away. But, there was no time to bemoan the sifting sands of time…we were about to jet off to northern Portugal. Upon arrival in Porto we began an exploration of yet another of Portugal’s distinct regions. We were welcomed at the airport and ushered to beautiful yacht for a cruise on the Douro River. It was truly a unique way to enjoy the sights of the city, but the Douro Valley was calling. Our rather gorgeous accommodations were at the Six Senses, which sits high above the valley with a commanding view of the terraced landscape. The Valley is a place where the land’s native beauty has been enhanced by the hands of vintners and artisans who have tended to the Valley over centuries. The Six Senses embodies all the grace one expects from the brand, and offers an all-encompassing sense of oneness with the place in which it is situated…carefully prepared and locally sourced food, local wines, expansive gardens, and an impressive spa all curated to offer guests an immersive sense of comfort and well-being.

Not all of our time was spent on the property. During our time in the Douro Valley we enjoyed a vintage car ride (in a Cadillac Eldorado!), a boat journey on the Douro, and an other-worldly cooking experience with a Countess. Another astounding experience offered by Tempo-VIP.

Following all of this we returned to Lisbon, where we spent our final evening in Portugal at one of the loveliest small hotels imaginable, Bairro Alto, ending it all with a dinner with Danilo and his beautiful girlfriend. 

Portugal is emerging as a favored destination for travelers, and our whirlwind visit provided us clear insight into why it should be on your travel wish list. With possibilities ranging from urbane Lisbon and Porto to the serenity of the Alentejo to the beaches of the Algarve and on to the vertiginous vineyards of the Douro Valley, Portugal provides an amazing array of opportunities for the aficionado of art, history, cuisine, wine, and elegant relaxation. And, while budget concerns are not an issue for many, it offers all of this at price points that comprise great value.

Now is the time to travel to Portugal. In concert with our partners who assisted us in putting together our journey of discovery, we can craft an incomparable experience for you and your family. It’s truly a must-visit destination.

​

A few days ago we shared some of our experiences in Antarctica. It was a life-changing experience…the beauty and abundance of life there was astounding.

But, there was more to this trip. Our expedition to Antarctica was originally scheduled to depart from Ushuaia, but the state of the world rendered that port of embarkation impractical, prompting Silversea to switch to Porto Natales, Chile. I’m tempted to say “when life offers your lemons, make lemonade,” but the truth was that this offered us an incredible opportunity to follow our trip to one of the more amazing places on Earth with a visit to another of the more amazing places on Earth, Patagonia. And, thus, a plan was hatched.

Upon disembarking from the beautiful Silver Cloud in Punta Arenas, we (and two members of our “travel family”) were met by a van that took us on our three-hour drive to The Singular Patagonia, perhaps the most unique hotel we’ve ever visited (photos below). Situated just outside the fishing village of Porto Natales, the Singular is a clever reinvention of an abandoned cold storage facility. The history is fascinating…and on full display, with substantial part of the original facility still intact, serving as a museum of the industry and the machinery of a bygone era. Ensconced within the old factory is a luxurious hotel that offers exceptional comfort and outstanding dining. 

The hotel is situated very close to the world famous Torres del Paine National Park (https://parquetorresdelpaine.cl/en/home/). While our travel partners opted for a couple of days of strenuous hiking, including a puma trek, we settled into a more relaxed, though active, pace. With only three nights at the uber-cool Singular Santiago, one day was spent on an all-day driving tour, with a driver and guide…very knowledgable and professional. The sights were magnificent, and the day was punctuated by a  gourmet picnic lunch, replete with Chilean wines, served in the Park. 

While Torres del Paine is accessible by road vehicles, vast expanses are equally as wild as Antarctica. Glacier-fed lakes sit at the base of impossibly steep mountains, with glacial waters cascading over immense waterfalls. Condors abound, as do guanacos, members of the camelid family resembling llamas.  

The park encompasses approximately 550,000 acres (225,000 hectares) of pristine, untamed natural beauty, and hikers, bicyclists, and adventure motorcyclists have been known to spend weeks exploring this incredible land, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve known as the Eighth Natural Wonder of the World.   Our day tour was sensational, but we will be back…you could lose yourself for days or weeks in this amazing Park…and beyond, in greater Patagonia.  

Our second full day was fairly tame, encompassing a visit to the quaint, somewhat hardscrabble town of Porto Natales.  Life here, near the bottom of South America, is not so far from the Antarctic Circle. These days fishing remains the core of the economy, along with tourism. It’s reflected in the local abundance of incredible seafood such as sea bass and king crab, which are a large part of the local culinary offerings, along with lamb and other wood-fired dishes.  

We could have—should have—stayed much longer, but home was beckoning, so after our third night we hopped a flight to Santiago, Chile’s capital city. Our awaiting driver took us immediately to the Singular Santiago, another hotel that ranks high on the “Fantastico!” scale. Rooms are comfortable and the staff was beyond helpful. Our first stop after settling into our rooms was the rooftop bar and restaurant. As we had experienced in Patagonia, the food at the Singular Santiago was exceptional. 

The next two days were spent touring. Both days we were in the hands of Ynez, a woman with an encyclopedic knowledge of Santiago and Chilean history. Truth be told, Santiago offers some beautiful sights—gorgeous parks and historic buildings—along with the somewhat jarring reminders of the civil unrest of 2019, significant expanses of graffiti. 

Night life in the area around the Singular is animated, to say the least. Mere steps from the hotel…actually, just around the corner…each night brought a vibrant scene of outdoor dining, open air vendors of every variety, and street performances ranging from dance to singing. It’s more than entertaining; in every direction there’s something to see, hear or taste. And, it’s also safe…though pickpockets are something to be aware of, families with young children are a significant part of the crowd. Mind your wallet, but enjoy the panorama of humanity on the street.

Our second full day in Santiago saw us meeting up with Ynez again, then heading out of the city to tour the Santa Rita Winery. We’re not quite sure what magical spell Ynez cast over the staff at the ticket counter, but what was supposed to be a brief tour of the winemaking facility turned into a half day of touring the entire estate—vineyards, gardens, hotel, chapel, and, finally, a wine tasting experience in the historic tasting room of the Mansion. 

This was truly a treat…and touring with expert guides such as Ynez is always something we recommend to our clients. An outstanding private guide not only brings context and understanding to the sights you’re experiencing, but he or she can sometimes open doors that are closed to most visitors. 

The wines of Santa Rita are really outstanding, as were all of the Chilean wines we sampled during our visit. Winemaking is a large part of the country’s economy, and overall their outstanding vintages are a real bargain compared to most others. 

Our time in Santiago was truly filled to the brim…art, architecture, history, and wine…but we were ready to head home the next evening (flights from Santiago back to the States generally leave in the late evening). For once…the first time in memory…Mike actually slept on the overnight flight back to Houston.

Our visit to Chile capped one of the most diverse and spectacular trips of our lives, ranging from the urban experience of sophisticated, but sometimes raw, Santiago, to the untamed beauty of Antarctica (teaming with life), to the spectacular scenery of Patagonia and Torres del Paine (wild beyond words). And, true to the Elán credo to “Travel beyond,” we combined all of this with the expert guidance of Silversea’s incredible expedition staff and stays at two astoundingly unique Singular hotels. 

As we write this, we are packing our bags for Portugal, where we will visit, evaluate, and report back on one of the world’s hottest destinations. Later this spring we’ll be heading back to South America, visiting Peru and experiencing the Belmond touch as we make our way to Machu Picchu.  

There’s more on the agenda…Victoria has a board meeting in Iceland and Mike is kicking the tires for our BMW motorcycle tour of the American West. If we’re able to incorporate some partner properties into our itinerary as we make our way to the Grand Canyon we’ll share the rundown here. 

We feel fortunate to be able to share these experiences, and we urge those who have been hesitating to live their travel dreams to stop waiting. Partners such as those we worked with to make our most recent travel dreams come to life—Silversea, Singular Hotels, and Abercrombie & Kent—are key to crafting unforgettable travel experiences for our clients throughout the world, and we are exceedingly grateful for the opportunity to work with the world’s top travel suppliers, both for our personal travel and that of our clients.

The world has reopened. It’s time to travel beyond!