Perfection. On this trip it came for me in the moment where we found ourselves at roadside stop on a remote road in Botswana, with a motorcycle broken beyond repair. It wasn’t our motorcycle. The rear subframe of my friend Mike’s BMW had decided to detach from the rest of the bike, collapsing on the rear tire and leaving the panniers dangling precariously while he wrestled the bike to a stop.
But, we’ll get back to this later….
Our journey began years ago. My friend Mike and I had begun conspiring to take a motorcycle trip through Africa. We had all but finalized our plans with John Jesson, the owner/president of the world’s leading motorcycle touring company, Ayres Adventures (https://www.ayresadventures.com/), when world events conspired to force us to cancel. The plan had to be put on hold, but meanwhile Mike and I (“the other Mike”) did a fair amount of riding together—circling Lake Michigan and dragging our wives, Elan’s Victoria and Katie, along on an epic two-wheeled exploration of America’s National Parks. Other destinations beckoned—Portugal, Italy, England—and the plan was put on the back burner.
Still, Africa called. If you’ve ever visited, you’ll understand why. Ernest Hemingway, in Green Hills of Africa, wrote in 1935,
“All I wanted to do now was get back to Africa. We had not left it yet, but when I would wake in the night I would lie listening, homesick for it already.”
Africa…at least every place I have been, is wild and raw, touched by peoples who are attuned to the rhythms of nature. It is also stunning, on a number of levels.
One day, The Other Mike said to me, “if we don’t do this now, we may never have the chance.” I was in. Victoria and Katie were part of the deal, their only stipulation being that they had to have the chance to occasionally ride in the support van if this mad plan came to fruition. So, it was on the tenth of March, 2026 that we found ourselves winging our way to Cape Town, South Africa. The others had visited South Africa (Victoria, at least three or four times), but for me it was a new destination.
We were met at Cape Town International Airport by our colleagues from Micato Safaris, who had agreed to help us with the transfer to our hotel. As it turned out, they had bigger plans. We were met by Micato’s Deon and Tony, who graciously greeted us and delivered us (and our riding gear) to The Silo, an unimaginably beautiful hotel located on Cape Town’s waterfront. The Silo is unique in the world, a luxury hotel with only 28 guest rooms and suites, built within the framework of an old grain silo. Liz Biden, the owner and famed designer, has imbued this property (and the others within the Royal Portfolio) with an infusion of color and native art that exudes charm and comfort. It was to be our home for the next three nights. It would have been more than enough had we stayed in any of The Silo’s 28 guest rooms, but to our great surprise we were delivered to the Royal Suite. The sophisticated design of the suite was rivaled only by the sweeping 180-degree views from the windows and balcony of the suite.
Deon and Tony met us early the next day and treated us to a wondrous tour of Cape Town, including a trip to the top of Table Mountain via the aerial tram. The tour was punctuated by a surprise stop at an ice cream stand created by Micato, and the day was further highlighted by lunch at a local restaurant where Victoria had an unexpected reunion with one of Micato’s executives, who is now the area director for the company. Our time in Cape Town was absolutely magnificent. Not only were we treated to unparalleled hospitality by The Silo, we explored the waterfront on our own and had a truly great time. Our friends at Micato ensured that every aspect of our time in Cape Town was outstanding, acting as our guardians, guides, and chauffeurs throughout our time there.
On our last evening we had a remarkable opportunity, to visit Leeukoppie, the mountain home of Sal Kerzner, a legendary figure in the world of hospitality. It is truly stunning, Kerzner’s incredibly luxurious family compound overlooking the ocean. Leeukoppie is in the process of transforming their business model, and we have been made privy to the details. We’ll describe this in more detail at a later time, but it our visit to was wonderful, and it is now part of the Elán portfolio.
This was all just a prelude. On our third morning in Cape Town we took a short walk to the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, another excellent hotel situated on Cape Town’s waterfront, which was to be the launching point for our motorcycle tour of Southern Africa. Late afternoon on March 14 we gathered in a meeting room where we met the other members of our group and our tour leaders, Claus Lazik and Lenro Fraser. We soon learned that these gents are the consummate professionals.
Claus has led over 300 motorcycle tours that have touched every continent (yes, he’s even ridden in Antarctica). He is serious yet good natured, and it seems quite likely that motor oil courses through his arteries and veins. Lenro has led numerous tours for various companies, leads tours on his own, and is a South African. He’s a former rugby player and is roughly the size of a rhinoceros. He’s also the consummate gentleman, preternaturally intelligent, soft spoken and diplomatic…someone whose skills at gentle persuasion proved invaluable at various times on our journey.
We were introduced to our bikes, a collection of gleaming BMWs, and shortly thereafter went off to enjoy our first group dinner together. Although we had met for the first time just hours before, our little group immediately gelled. Most were from the States, with one couple from Canada. They were intelligent and entertaining, soon to become lifelong friends.
But, we’ll get back to this later….
Our journey began years ago. My friend Mike and I had begun conspiring to take a motorcycle trip through Africa. We had all but finalized our plans with John Jesson, the owner/president of the world’s leading motorcycle touring company, Ayres Adventures (https://www.ayresadventures.com/), when world events conspired to force us to cancel. The plan had to be put on hold, but meanwhile Mike and I (“the other Mike”) did a fair amount of riding together—circling Lake Michigan and dragging our wives, Elan’s Victoria and Katie, along on an epic two-wheeled exploration of America’s National Parks. Other destinations beckoned—Portugal, Italy, England—and the plan was put on the back burner.
Still, Africa called. If you’ve ever visited, you’ll understand why. Ernest Hemingway, in Green Hills of Africa, wrote in 1935,
“All I wanted to do now was get back to Africa. We had not left it yet, but when I would wake in the night I would lie listening, homesick for it already.”
Africa…at least every place I have been, is wild and raw, touched by peoples who are attuned to the rhythms of nature. It is also stunning, on a number of levels.
One day, The Other Mike said to me, “if we don’t do this now, we may never have the chance.” I was in. Victoria and Katie were part of the deal, their only stipulation being that they had to have the chance to occasionally ride in the support van if this mad plan came to fruition. So, it was on the tenth of March, 2026 that we found ourselves winging our way to Cape Town, South Africa. The others had visited South Africa (Victoria, at least three or four times), but for me it was a new destination.
We were met at Cape Town International Airport by our colleagues from Micato Safaris, who had agreed to help us with the transfer to our hotel. As it turned out, they had bigger plans. We were met by Micato’s Deon and Tony, who graciously greeted us and delivered us (and our riding gear) to The Silo, an unimaginably beautiful hotel located on Cape Town’s waterfront. The Silo is unique in the world, a luxury hotel with only 28 guest rooms and suites, built within the framework of an old grain silo. Liz Biden, the owner and famed designer, has imbued this property (and the others within the Royal Portfolio) with an infusion of color and native art that exudes charm and comfort. It was to be our home for the next three nights. It would have been more than enough had we stayed in any of The Silo’s 28 guest rooms, but to our great surprise we were delivered to the Royal Suite. The sophisticated design of the suite was rivaled only by the sweeping 180-degree views from the windows and balcony of the suite.
Deon and Tony met us early the next day and treated us to a wondrous tour of Cape Town, including a trip to the top of Table Mountain via the aerial tram. The tour was punctuated by a surprise stop at an ice cream stand created by Micato, and the day was further highlighted by lunch at a local restaurant where Victoria had an unexpected reunion with one of Micato’s executives, who is now the area director for the company. Our time in Cape Town was absolutely magnificent. Not only were we treated to unparalleled hospitality by The Silo, we explored the waterfront on our own and had a truly great time. Our friends at Micato ensured that every aspect of our time in Cape Town was outstanding, acting as our guardians, guides, and chauffeurs throughout our time there.
On our last evening we had a remarkable opportunity, to visit Leeukoppie, the mountain home of Sal Kerzner, a legendary figure in the world of hospitality. It is truly stunning, Kerzner’s incredibly luxurious family compound overlooking the ocean. Leeukoppie is in the process of transforming their business model, and we have been made privy to the details. We’ll describe this in more detail at a later time, but it our visit to was wonderful, and it is now part of the Elán portfolio.
This was all just a prelude. On our third morning in Cape Town we took a short walk to the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, another excellent hotel situated on Cape Town’s waterfront, which was to be the launching point for our motorcycle tour of Southern Africa. Late afternoon on March 14 we gathered in a meeting room where we met the other members of our group and our tour leaders, Claus Lazik and Lenro Fraser. We soon learned that these gents are the consummate professionals.
Claus has led over 300 motorcycle tours that have touched every continent (yes, he’s even ridden in Antarctica). He is serious yet good natured, and it seems quite likely that motor oil courses through his arteries and veins. Lenro has led numerous tours for various companies, leads tours on his own, and is a South African. He’s a former rugby player and is roughly the size of a rhinoceros. He’s also the consummate gentleman, preternaturally intelligent, soft spoken and diplomatic…someone whose skills at gentle persuasion proved invaluable at various times on our journey.
We were introduced to our bikes, a collection of gleaming BMWs, and shortly thereafter went off to enjoy our first group dinner together. Although we had met for the first time just hours before, our little group immediately gelled. Most were from the States, with one couple from Canada. They were intelligent and entertaining, soon to become lifelong friends.
The next morning we suited up, mounted our bikes, and began the ride out of Cape Town. I was a bit tentative at first—traffic, unfamiliar surroundings, and riding on the left side of the road, you know—but we quickly settled into the rhythm of the road. My BMW, an R1300 GS Adventure, is one of the planet’s ultimate motorcycles, and we were soon friends. Making our way out of Cape Town we were treated to the first of many amazing roads, this one winding alongside mountains that cascaded into the azure waters of the ocean, punctuated by beautiful beaches and rocky shorelines.
That evening we settled into the Cape Agulhas Country Lodge, a quaint lodge hand constructed by its founders. At dinner that evening we were treated to a dinner at one of the southernmost restaurants on the African continent, where we enjoyed local wines and beers, along with some classic South African cuisine.
The next morning we started off with a routine that would define the schedule for most of the days ahead—a meeting around 8:00 a.m. at the bikes, where Claus would pull out a map and give us an overview of the ride ahead. We would don our riding gear and head out, with Claus in the lead and Lenro following behind the group in a support van that pulled a trailer with spare tires and a spare BMW. At times some of the co-riders, including Victoria, opted out of riding pillion and hopped into the van with Lenro, who regaled his passengers with a litany of history and cultural gems at every opportunity.
On this particular day, our second on the road, we first took a short ride to the southernmost point on the African continent, and we stood at the place where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. One of our group, Carlos, is a geologist and before we embarked he gave us a tutorial in the geological history of Africa. Pretty fascinating.
Our daily briefings were complemented by user-friendly technology. Ayres Adventures provided us with an app (Vamoos) that featured a day-by-day itinerary, descriptions of our hotels and lodges, maps, and important trip planning documents. Claus also created a WhatsApp group for our entourage in which he shared daily route maps and where we all communicated with one another.
I’ll spare our readers the minute-by-minute account of the 18 days of our tour, instead sharing a few impressions of the highlights.
None of us was prepared for the stunning beauty of South Africa. Each day seemed to introduce a panoply of mountain passes, sweeping valleys, verdant forests, and panoramic vistas that caused constant amazement. Even Victoria, who had visited parts of South Africa on three prior trips, was amazed.
Some of the highlights:
After leaving Cape Agulhas we embarked on a ride that was mind-blowing in every way. Climbing out of the region of Oudtshoorn into the mountains we crossed from lush valleys to flowing grasslands and over the Tradouw Pass. On this day, as on every one, we found ourselves proclaiming “Oh, my!” every few minutes, as each stretch of road brought new visual delights. Truly, this was one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever been, and it was only the second day on the road.
One night found us at a country lodge where the owner and housekeeper prepared a traditional South African barbecue (a brae) that was absolutely delicious, serving beef, lamb and chicken prepared over a wood fire, and accompanied by traditional South African side dishes.
And then there was Knysna, an oceanfront town known for its whale watching and vibrant night life. We stayed at an enchanting hotel, The Lofts, where our room was right at the water’s edge. After strolling the town on our own, we met the rest of the group for a fantastic dinner. It’s a gorgeous town, and we vowed to return one day to spend more time. But the road beckoned. After an absolutely stunning breakfast at the bakery adjoining The Lofts it was time to suit up
Throughout our time in South Africa the roads were excellent. As we moved through our itinerary, we sometimes found ourselves passing through incredibly busy towns where throngs of South Africans crossed the road (somewhat randomly), requiring us to throttle down and thread our way through the crowds. In those towns, and in more rural settings, we were always greeted with waves, broad smiles, and excited children jumping up and down at the sight of the BMWs rolling through. We also found that the other drivers were polite and accommodating, giving us wide berth when we passed and often waving us through intersections to help us keep our group together.
One has to stay on one’s toes on the rural highways. We often encountered baboons, cows, sheep and goats alongside, and sometimes on, the road. At one point I found myself in a stampeding herd of cows that decided that they needed to cross the road at exactly the moment I arrived. These are not the roads for the indecisive or the faint of heart, but a bit of awareness is all that’s needed.
Overall, the pace was pretty much perfect. Every morning Claus would give us an overview, laying out the route and the planned stops along the way. Generally we stopped every one and a half to two hours. Sometimes to refuel and grab a coffee, other times for lunch, and still other times to take in a stunning view or stop at a unique roadside attraction.
During our journey we had many opportunities to participate in safari experiences (“game drives”). The first of these was at the Kichaka Luxury Game Lodge, located within the Lalibela Game Reserve, where we spent two nights. The second was at Kruger National Park, where we spent two nights at the Kruger Gate Hotel. In all there were a half dozen or so opportunities for us to take part in game drives, and one would be a fool not to do so. The experience within the Lalibela Game Reserve was outstanding. The Lodge itself is beautiful, and as it happened our first night there was marked by torrential rain, giving us the opportunity to luxuriate in the stunning lounge in front of one of the two impressive fireplaces. Within private reserves, the guides pretty much have total discretion to take guests to the best points to see wildlife in the their natural habitat. And we saw a lot—lions, hippos, rhinos, Cape buffalo, and huge variety of antelopes.
Our two-night visit to Kruger National Park was equally amazing, but quite different. We were lodged at the Kruger Gate Hotel, a sizable hotel that runs a number of safari vehicles into the Park every morning and evening. Unlike the other lodges and small hotels we visited in South Africa, this was a large, full service hotel, with multiple bars and dining facilities, and every amenity you would expect at a high end hotel, with the addition of monkeys and baboons roaming the grounds. Here, as in every place you visited, you are advised to keep your patio doors locked, lest you end up with an uninvited primate visitor rifling through your luggage.
Over the course of our trip we encountered elephants, hippos, rhinos, giraffes, lions, and leopards on these trips into the African wilds. Additionally, there were a variety of other species—wildebeest, meerkats, hyenas, wild dogs, mongooses, and some incredible bird species. Seeing these animals in their natural habitat is a humbling gift.
It’s also worth noting that tourism of this sort, as well as in other forms such as by private coach or personal vehicle, are hugely important aspects of sustainable tourism. Frankly, many of the communities we encountered are quite impoverished. The infusion of cash from tourism provides a critical source of income for the indigenous people, and supports community improvements that are raising their standards of living.
Critically, visits to private reserves and national parks support the preservation of wildlife through research and active management of species, including activities such as the relocation of threatened animals to ensure the genetic diversity required for their survival, and breeding programs that create balanced ecosystems. This is true sustainable tourism, in the sense that our visits support the cultures and habitats that are the reason we visit. Without tourist dollars, these habitats would collapse, and species would become extinct.
Now, back to the riding: each day on the road brought new delights—the world’s third largest canyon (Blyde River Canyon), historic sights (such as the Nelson Mandela Capture Sight museum), and, most surprising, seemingly endless valleys of banana trees, citrus groves, and pine plantations. The luxuriant landscapes, with which we were presented from the first day, were a huge surprise. Spectacular green scenery was a near constant, and for most of the time in South Africa we found ourselves riding through mountains or within eyesight of them.
As we made our way towards Botswana, we encountered the first and only significant mechanical problem on our trip, as one of the bikes suffered the inexplicable collapse of the subframe that bears the rear signal array, license plate, and panniers. As I mentioned earlier, this precipitated an unplanned detour to a rough-hewn roadside stop that found us mingling with a sizable crowd of local revelers. They quickly embraced us with curiosity and joy, even convincing one or two of our group to join in their dancing. Photos were taken, stories were told, and soon Claus and Lenro had replaced the broken bike with the spare that had accompanied us on the trailer for the past several days. Honestly, this seemingly unfortunate turn of events was one that turned into one of the more joyful chapters of our saga, a true human-to-human moment that brought together two worlds. We couldn’t stop smiling.
As we made our way further north into Botswana the mountain vistas faded. The flawless pavement gave way to long stretches of construction and pock-marked roads with the potential to do damage to both bike and rider. But we remained upright and safe, albeit a bit dustier than we had been. We navigated a challenging border crossing into Botswana, thanks in no small part to Lenro’s assertive yet easy-going interactions with an endless stream of listless bureaucrats. Overall, the process…which for some can take days…was finished in just an hour. To be sure, a hot, dusty hour, but one that was followed immediately by a stop at a hidden lodge where we ate well and rehydrated ourselves with ample amounts of water and juices (no alcohol while riding…ever).
As we continued into Botswana, the roads were challenging…rough pavement, areas of no pavement, and significant clouds of dust as we proceeded through a much more arid landscape. But, there was compensation. We soon began to encounter elephants and giraffes alongside the road. Unlike South Africa, where the wildlife is generally contained in private preserves or parks, in Botswana the wildlife roams free. The thrill of encountering these majestic animals in a place where they are unfettered by human intervention was a special gift for each of us.
After more than two weeks of riding we arrived at the Cresta Mowana Safari Resort and Spa, where we bade farewell to our bikes, removing our gear and personal accessories before joining a cruise on the Chobe River. This facilitated the final portion of our trip, avoiding the process of another border crossing with vehicles into Zambia. The following morning we were driven to the world famous Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Resort, located within a national park and adjacent to Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The Royal Livingstone is truly a special place, both historic and physically imposing. The setting, on the shores of the surging Zambezi River, is awe-inspiring. We all took a short jaunt to the Falls. Beautiful and a little scary, the sight, sound and feel of millions of gallons of water cascading over the falls every second is a life experience you’ll never forget. And the hotel’s inherent beauty is amplified by the fact that wildlife freely roams the grounds. When we opened the curtains of our room, we found a mother and baby zebra standing just a few feet away.
I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention our fellow travelers, a group comprised of folks roughly our age who collectively possess at least a couple of centuries of riding experience. They were uniformly intelligent, wise, humble, and fun. During the challenging moments of our 4,222 kilometer ride they were supportive of each other. And, while they were all extremely well traveled, they…like us…marveled at the experience we had together. Another unexpected, and perhaps unpredictable, delight of our time on two wheels was the constant interaction with locals and international travelers. We rubbed elbows with twenty-somethings partying at roadside stops, and had deep discussions with travelers from various places in Europe.
A bit earlier I mentioned “perfection” in the context of a broken motorcycle. Without belaboring the mechanical issue, other than to note that our guides, Claus and Lenro, handled the issue with the utmost professionalism, there was a moment where we experienced the wonder of traveling afar in its purest form. This unexpected stop found our group of North Americans, mingling with a cadre of a couple dozen local twenty-somethings at a completely unpolished roadside stop. They were having the time of their lives. We were a little anxious about the minutes that were slipping away. But it soon evolved into joking, hugging, and even a little bit of dancing.
Divine human connection, a moment so perfect that I found myself proclaiming “This is so damned cool.” No one could ever plan something like this, but everyone should open themselves to the possibility, something that only can occur when you decide to stretch a little.
I must first tip my hat (helmet?) to Ayres Adventures. The planning and logistics behind a trip of this sort are immense, but they did it all with seeming ease. Our tour leaders were actually leaders, not just guides. Their combination of knowledge, skill, and finesse was beyond impressive…I can’t imagine anyone doing it better.
As for our fellow travelers, the sights, the encounters with wildlife, the meals we shared, and the support shown to one another during the more challenging stretches of road (both physical and metaphysical) quickly created a cohesive group of friends.
And then there’s just Africa and all that it includes—immense beauty, astounding wildlife, and soulful people who open their hearts to visitors. You may leave the continent, but it will forever live in your heart.
To Claus, Lenro and our fellow adventurers: thank you.
Please enjoy the slide show, with just a few highlights of this incredible journey (a mixture of our photos and some shared by our fellow travelers)….