On Our Way to India
As we shared our plans to visit India over the past year the question we repeatedly got was “Why?” Objectively, one could recite the statistics: the World’s most populous country; home of the sixth most populous city (Mumbai, with over 23 million in its metro area), neighbor to China, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Myanmar; home to Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Sikhism, BUddhism and others; one of the world’s largest economies; and more.
But, the truth is a little more complicated—it just seemed so exotic. And mysterious (at least to one of us).
Trips like this are always enjoyable, but they also are all about work. We began our plans for this journey a year ago, working with our trusted partners at Micato Safaris. Micato has been named the world’s best safari company ten times, and they are always our first choice when planning travel to Africa or India for our clients. Their attention to detail and the level of expertise they bring to the table sets the benchmark for our industry, and it is the sort of expertise that allows us to create unrivaled experiences for those who turn to Elán. This is the “why” of why Elán exists…to set the standard by which others in this business measure themselves, and thereby providing unrivaled experiences for our clients and theirs.
If our experiences inspire you, we’d suggest that you explore the possibility of a similar custom journey with Micato (https://www.micato.com/india/custom-journeys/).
Our journey began on February 28, 2025, when we boarded our flights to Delhi aboard Etihad. Victoria had just returned the prior day from Japan, so this already epic journey was a bit more ambitious for her. We flew via Abu Dhabi and the level of service was beyond reproach. Still, when we got to Delhi we were tired. Any hint of apprehension was immediately erased as we stepped off the plane and were met by a porter who took us immediately to Immigration. After checking our e-visas against our passports we stepped outside where we were met by Micato India’s Managing Director, Michael, and our Tour Director, Puneet. We knew at that point that we were in good hands…Puneet is actually a legendary figure in Indian tourism. More about that later.
We immediately drove to our first “home” in India, Leela Palace. There, as at every hotel we stayed during our trip, we received a warm welcome…anointed with oil and showered with rose petals. And now is the time to make the first important point of our post: At Leela Palace and every place we visited over the next three weeks we experienced an incomparable level of genuine warmth and hospitality. Obviously the staff is very well trained, but you know when someone really cares…and it was evident in every moment at this hotel and elsewhere.
We were directed to our elegant and well outfitted suite, had a fantastic light dinner that Puneet ordered for us, then retired for the evening.
Mindful of the fact that a play by play could amount to drudgery, some of the highlights of our time in Delhi included a rickshaw ride through the old city, a tour of New Delhi, including its impressive government complex and the mansions of billionaires, and a visit to Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Also, extremely noteworthy, we visited a large Sikh temple where we observed the singing of hymns and the preparation of a communal meal that is provided to thousands daily without charge, reflecting the Sikh values of service to others.
But, the truth is a little more complicated—it just seemed so exotic. And mysterious (at least to one of us).
Trips like this are always enjoyable, but they also are all about work. We began our plans for this journey a year ago, working with our trusted partners at Micato Safaris. Micato has been named the world’s best safari company ten times, and they are always our first choice when planning travel to Africa or India for our clients. Their attention to detail and the level of expertise they bring to the table sets the benchmark for our industry, and it is the sort of expertise that allows us to create unrivaled experiences for those who turn to Elán. This is the “why” of why Elán exists…to set the standard by which others in this business measure themselves, and thereby providing unrivaled experiences for our clients and theirs.
If our experiences inspire you, we’d suggest that you explore the possibility of a similar custom journey with Micato (https://www.micato.com/india/custom-journeys/).
Our journey began on February 28, 2025, when we boarded our flights to Delhi aboard Etihad. Victoria had just returned the prior day from Japan, so this already epic journey was a bit more ambitious for her. We flew via Abu Dhabi and the level of service was beyond reproach. Still, when we got to Delhi we were tired. Any hint of apprehension was immediately erased as we stepped off the plane and were met by a porter who took us immediately to Immigration. After checking our e-visas against our passports we stepped outside where we were met by Micato India’s Managing Director, Michael, and our Tour Director, Puneet. We knew at that point that we were in good hands…Puneet is actually a legendary figure in Indian tourism. More about that later.
We immediately drove to our first “home” in India, Leela Palace. There, as at every hotel we stayed during our trip, we received a warm welcome…anointed with oil and showered with rose petals. And now is the time to make the first important point of our post: At Leela Palace and every place we visited over the next three weeks we experienced an incomparable level of genuine warmth and hospitality. Obviously the staff is very well trained, but you know when someone really cares…and it was evident in every moment at this hotel and elsewhere.
We were directed to our elegant and well outfitted suite, had a fantastic light dinner that Puneet ordered for us, then retired for the evening.
Mindful of the fact that a play by play could amount to drudgery, some of the highlights of our time in Delhi included a rickshaw ride through the old city, a tour of New Delhi, including its impressive government complex and the mansions of billionaires, and a visit to Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Also, extremely noteworthy, we visited a large Sikh temple where we observed the singing of hymns and the preparation of a communal meal that is provided to thousands daily without charge, reflecting the Sikh values of service to others.
On to Agra and Ranthambore National Park
Leaving Delhi, we ventured on to Agra. The drive from Delhi revealed a different side of India, as we passed lively villages, farm machinery fabricated from diesel pump engines, and even the occasional camel. The arrival in Agra brought us to the beautiful Oberoi Amarvilas. Upon entering the lobby, we were immediately surrounded by the incredible luxury that distinguishes the hotel as one of the world’s finest. And the view! The Taj Mahal can be seen from the lobby…and from every room and suite. See the photos below for more.
We ventured to the Taj Mahal twice, once the following morning and once in the evening. Truthfully, it’s emotionally overwhelming. The building itself is a monument to love, built by XXX in memory of his beloved wife XXX. But as you approach the Taj Mahal you find yourself awestruck by the magnificence of the building itself. Built of white marble with a soaring dome and towers, it’s impressive from afar. But, as you get closer you see the incredible attention to minute detail in the form of tens of thousands of intricate designs of inlaid semiprecious stones. We spent some time there and returned later in the day. As the sun hits the monument from a different direction, the stone takes on a soft, almost rosey appearance.
The following morning, I have to admit to being a bit overwhelmed as we prepared to leave. Looking out from our balcony for our last glimpse was one of those times when we both realized that we had experienced something magical, an experience we had waited for for a lifetime…and that it might never again be repeated. It brings a lump to you throat…a mixture of awe, gratitude, and even a bit of mourning as you leave it behind.
But, as we left the Oberoi Amarvilas we knew we were heading to another great adventure, a visit to Ranthambore National Park. Our accommodations for the next two nights were in the tented encampment of the Oberoi Amarvilas. Again…as happened repeatedly…we were showered with rose petals and given a blessing as we arrived.
We ventured to the Taj Mahal twice, once the following morning and once in the evening. Truthfully, it’s emotionally overwhelming. The building itself is a monument to love, built by XXX in memory of his beloved wife XXX. But as you approach the Taj Mahal you find yourself awestruck by the magnificence of the building itself. Built of white marble with a soaring dome and towers, it’s impressive from afar. But, as you get closer you see the incredible attention to minute detail in the form of tens of thousands of intricate designs of inlaid semiprecious stones. We spent some time there and returned later in the day. As the sun hits the monument from a different direction, the stone takes on a soft, almost rosey appearance.
The following morning, I have to admit to being a bit overwhelmed as we prepared to leave. Looking out from our balcony for our last glimpse was one of those times when we both realized that we had experienced something magical, an experience we had waited for for a lifetime…and that it might never again be repeated. It brings a lump to you throat…a mixture of awe, gratitude, and even a bit of mourning as you leave it behind.
But, as we left the Oberoi Amarvilas we knew we were heading to another great adventure, a visit to Ranthambore National Park. Our accommodations for the next two nights were in the tented encampment of the Oberoi Amarvilas. Again…as happened repeatedly…we were showered with rose petals and given a blessing as we arrived.
Beautiful Jaipur
The four hour drive to Jaipur provided us another fascinating look at rural India. Upon arriving the Rambagh Palace, we were amazed at yet another beautiful palace hotel. The grounds are impeccable and the Palace itself reflects the grandeur of its royal pedigree. We soon set out on a tour of the”Pink City,” so named because it was painted pink to honor the visit of the Prince of Wales in the 1800s. Many of the old city’s walls and buildings still maintain the same color. A visit to the City Palace provided a close up view of the opulence of the lives led by the royals. Returning to Rambagh Palace we dined in the incredible setting of the Suvarna Mahal, the dining room of the Royal Family of Jaipur.
The next morning we arose early to take a hot air balloon ride over the undulating hills of the region (be sure o check out the photo of the Elán balloon!), after which we embarked on a Jeep safari through a Samode village, then wrapped up the day with an exclusive private dinner at the home of a noble family. This dinner, in which the prince walked us through the history of his family and detailed the preparatiaon of the evening’s meal was one of innumerable unique experiences arranged by Micato. Frankly, every day was like this—occasions that virtually no other visitors to India has access to, a reflection of Micato’s unique reach and the esteem with which they are held throughout the country.
Our stay in Jaipur was the longest in one city, and it was well worth it. Our visit to the Amber Fort the following day provided a completely unique perspective on the immense wealth and power once held by India’s royalty. During the course of the preceding days one of our colleagues had mentioned via a social media post a favorite hotel of hers, so Puneet—ever willing to turn on a dime—took us there. Another delicious meal; another forever memory. But that was not to be outdone by our final adventure in Jaipur, a visit to a private reserve where elephants who once served in the tourist trade are given sanctuary. A walk with the elephants was followed by one of the most incredible exhibitions of local dance and a meal under the stars.
The next morning we arose early to take a hot air balloon ride over the undulating hills of the region (be sure o check out the photo of the Elán balloon!), after which we embarked on a Jeep safari through a Samode village, then wrapped up the day with an exclusive private dinner at the home of a noble family. This dinner, in which the prince walked us through the history of his family and detailed the preparatiaon of the evening’s meal was one of innumerable unique experiences arranged by Micato. Frankly, every day was like this—occasions that virtually no other visitors to India has access to, a reflection of Micato’s unique reach and the esteem with which they are held throughout the country.
Our stay in Jaipur was the longest in one city, and it was well worth it. Our visit to the Amber Fort the following day provided a completely unique perspective on the immense wealth and power once held by India’s royalty. During the course of the preceding days one of our colleagues had mentioned via a social media post a favorite hotel of hers, so Puneet—ever willing to turn on a dime—took us there. Another delicious meal; another forever memory. But that was not to be outdone by our final adventure in Jaipur, a visit to a private reserve where elephants who once served in the tourist trade are given sanctuary. A walk with the elephants was followed by one of the most incredible exhibitions of local dance and a meal under the stars.
Udaipur and the Lake Palace
The considerable distance to our next destination, Udaipur, required a brief and comfortable flight. Upon arrival our driver, Gulab was waiting for us—again with his immaculate (and perfectly stocked) white van. We made our way to our next hotel, the Lake Palace, a gleaming oasis in the middle of Lake Pichola, accessible only by boat. We had breakfast with Puneet, then set out on our exploration of this truly beautiful city. Much of the India we saw was chaotic, but Udaipur, particularly the area near the lake and the City Palace, was immaculate. We toured the nearby temples of Elingii and Nagda, whose temples date back to the fourth century
We continued on to Devigarh Fort Palace, a unique hotel set a distance from the city, where we partook of a demonstration of local cooking.
We continued on to Devigarh Fort Palace, a unique hotel set a distance from the city, where we partook of a demonstration of local cooking.
Jodhpur and Holi
Our arrival at the Umaid Bhawan Palace was truly an epic experience in a thoroughly epic trip. Escorted into the grounds by horse-mounted guards, we felt as though we were royalty ourselves. Pulling up to the Palace, once the largest private home in the world, we found ourselves awestruck by the size and magnificence of one of the world’s great hotels, designed and built in the art deco style.
We didn’t have much time to adjust, however, as we were informed that we had been invited to a cocktail reception with the Royal Family. It was truly a wonderful introduction, and we were greeted by the King and Queen as though we were lifelong friends. After a bit of time with them and other invitees, we returned to our suite to prepare for the midnight procession to a bonfire marking the beginning of Holi. The ceremony was marked by blessings, dancing, and music, with the bonfire being lit by the Maharaja as the ceremony drew to its conclusion.
The next morning was truly the dawn of Holi, as well as Mike’s birthday (!). We had been provided with white pajamas and after breakfast proceeded to a separate location on the grounds to once again celebrate with the Royals. The tossing of colored powders, raucous music, and a general atmosphere of revelry marked this party of all parties. It was festive beyond belief, and accompanied by a wonderful array of Indian cuisine.
We didn’t have much time to adjust, however, as we were informed that we had been invited to a cocktail reception with the Royal Family. It was truly a wonderful introduction, and we were greeted by the King and Queen as though we were lifelong friends. After a bit of time with them and other invitees, we returned to our suite to prepare for the midnight procession to a bonfire marking the beginning of Holi. The ceremony was marked by blessings, dancing, and music, with the bonfire being lit by the Maharaja as the ceremony drew to its conclusion.
The next morning was truly the dawn of Holi, as well as Mike’s birthday (!). We had been provided with white pajamas and after breakfast proceeded to a separate location on the grounds to once again celebrate with the Royals. The tossing of colored powders, raucous music, and a general atmosphere of revelry marked this party of all parties. It was festive beyond belief, and accompanied by a wonderful array of Indian cuisine.
Varanasi
From Jodhpur we flew to Varanasi. Again, the Micato touch was evident as every aspect of our transfer, air tickets, and handling of luggage were handled seamlessly by Puneet and his associates. It’s kind of the Micato way—the potentially challenging bits are all taken care of, and their guests are allowed to enjoy the journey unimpeded by concerns with logistics.
Varanasi…where to start? We had experienced plenty of the chaos of India up to this point—frenetic traffic with scooters competing with camels, elephants and tractors were, it seemed, the norm. But Varanasi turns it up a notch or two. It is the ultimate spiritual destination for those of the Hindu faith, situated on the banks of the Ganges River. It is here that millions come on pilgrimages, to bathe in the waters of the holiest of rivers, to commune with holy men, and in some instances to say farewell to those who have completed their mortal journey. Carnival rides compete for attention with funeral pyres. Commerce thrives alongside holy men of deep devotion. The throngs surging to the River are a force of nature.
It is the sum of all humanity.
In writing this, it is the one place that induced writer’s block. The sensations are overwhelming. Varanasi will astound you. And, regardless of your faith (or lack thereof), it is THE one place on Earth that you should visit in this lifetime. We are not of the Hindu faith, but you cannot help but be overwhelmed by the spectacle of the morning ceremony of priests welcoming the morning sun, or by the utter devotion to family and natural forces manifested by traditions that stretch back over centuries.
We cruised the river (twice) and the sights were impressive—men and women bathing in the holy waters of the Ganges, religious ceremonies on the banks, and tented encampments surrounded by camels are not movie sets, they are reality.
After our first full day outing in the City, Puneet urged us to freshen up and meet him in the lobby. From there he led us outside for one of the most touching occasions in a journey that was filled with touching occasions, a Hindu ceremony performed by two priests, celebrating our 48 years of marriage.
That’s it, all I can write about Varanasi. Our photos may give a bit of a glimpse into this most amazing of cities, but you will never understand until you visit. And you must visit.
Varanasi…where to start? We had experienced plenty of the chaos of India up to this point—frenetic traffic with scooters competing with camels, elephants and tractors were, it seemed, the norm. But Varanasi turns it up a notch or two. It is the ultimate spiritual destination for those of the Hindu faith, situated on the banks of the Ganges River. It is here that millions come on pilgrimages, to bathe in the waters of the holiest of rivers, to commune with holy men, and in some instances to say farewell to those who have completed their mortal journey. Carnival rides compete for attention with funeral pyres. Commerce thrives alongside holy men of deep devotion. The throngs surging to the River are a force of nature.
It is the sum of all humanity.
In writing this, it is the one place that induced writer’s block. The sensations are overwhelming. Varanasi will astound you. And, regardless of your faith (or lack thereof), it is THE one place on Earth that you should visit in this lifetime. We are not of the Hindu faith, but you cannot help but be overwhelmed by the spectacle of the morning ceremony of priests welcoming the morning sun, or by the utter devotion to family and natural forces manifested by traditions that stretch back over centuries.
We cruised the river (twice) and the sights were impressive—men and women bathing in the holy waters of the Ganges, religious ceremonies on the banks, and tented encampments surrounded by camels are not movie sets, they are reality.
After our first full day outing in the City, Puneet urged us to freshen up and meet him in the lobby. From there he led us outside for one of the most touching occasions in a journey that was filled with touching occasions, a Hindu ceremony performed by two priests, celebrating our 48 years of marriage.
That’s it, all I can write about Varanasi. Our photos may give a bit of a glimpse into this most amazing of cities, but you will never understand until you visit. And you must visit.
Mumbai
Final Thoughts
We lost track of how many times we used the word “amazing” on this journey. The array of beautiful sights, historical palaces, and new cultural experiences was incredible, almost to the point of being overwhelming.
As we boarded the first of our two flights to return home, I have to confess a bit of sadness as we left behind one of the most wondrous places on Earth. Every day in India had been filled with something new…and almost always unexpected. The traditions of kindness and generosity were a constant, set amidst the contrast of grand palaces, magnificent temples, and many people of humble means. In India, one’s senses are constantly switched to “full on,” lest you miss something of significance. Truthfully, without the steady guidance of our Travel Director and now dear friend Puneet, we would have missed most of it. Not only did Puneet guide us through every one of the sights we had worked into our itinerary, he (and no doubt the crew of Micato) arranged for several magical moments that were wholly unexpected.
As we boarded the first of our two flights to return home, I have to confess a bit of sadness as we left behind one of the most wondrous places on Earth. Every day in India had been filled with something new…and almost always unexpected. The traditions of kindness and generosity were a constant, set amidst the contrast of grand palaces, magnificent temples, and many people of humble means. In India, one’s senses are constantly switched to “full on,” lest you miss something of significance. Truthfully, without the steady guidance of our Travel Director and now dear friend Puneet, we would have missed most of it. Not only did Puneet guide us through every one of the sights we had worked into our itinerary, he (and no doubt the crew of Micato) arranged for several magical moments that were wholly unexpected.