As we shared our plans to visit India over the past year the question we repeatedly got was “Why?” Objectively, one could recite the statistics: the World’s most populous country; home of some of Earth’s largest cities, neighbor to China, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Myanmar; home to Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Sikhism, Buddhism and others; one of the world’s largest economies; and more.

But, the truth is a little more complicated—it just seemed so exotic. And mysterious (at least to one of us).

Trips like this are always enjoyable, but they also are all about work. We began our plans for this journey a year ago, working with our trusted partners at Micato Safaris. Micato has been named the world’s best safari company ten times, and they are always our first choice when planning travel to Africa or India for our clients. Their attention to detail and the level of expertise they bring to the table sets the benchmark for our industry, and it is the sort of expertise that allows us to create unrivaled experiences for those who turn to Elán. This is the “why” of why Elán exists…to set the standard by which others in this business measure themselves, and thereby providing unrivaled experiences for our clients and theirs. 

Ultimately our year of conversations and planning with Micato resulted in a 40-page itinerary, detailing a journey that would take us to some of India’s most renowned sites over a span of three weeks.

If our experiences inspire you, we’d suggest that you explore the possibility of a similar custom journey with Micato (https://www.micato.com/india/custom-journeys/). 

Our journey began when we boarded our flights to Delhi aboard Etihad. Victoria had just returned the prior day from Japan, so this already epic journey was a bit more ambitious for her. We flew via Abu Dhabi and the level of service aboard Etihad was beyond reproach. Still, when we got to Delhi we were truly tired. Any hint of apprehension was immediately erased as we stepped off the plane and were met by a porter who took us immediately to the Immigration desk. After checking our e-visas against our passports we stepped outside, where we were met by Micato India’s Managing Director, Michael, and our Tour Director, Puneet. We knew at that point that we were in good hands…Puneet is actually a legendary figure in Indian tourism. More about that later. 
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We immediately drove to our first “home” in India, Leela Palace. There, as at every hotel we stayed during our trip, we received a warm welcome…anointed with oil and showered with rose petals. And now is the time to make the first important point of our post: At Leela Palace and every place we visited over the next three weeks we experienced an incomparable level of genuine warmth and hospitality. Obviously the staff is very well trained, but you know when someone really cares…and it was evident in every moment at this hotel and elsewhere. 

We were directed to our elegant, beautifully decorated suite, had a fantastic light dinner that Puneet ordered for us, then retired for the evening. 

Mindful of the fact that a play by play could amount to drudgery, some of the highlights of our time in Delhi included a rickshaw ride through the old city, a tour of New Delhi, including its impressive government complex and the mansions of billionaires, and a visit to Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Also, extremely noteworthy, we visited a large Sikh temple where we observed the singing of hymns and the preparation of a communal meal that is provided to thousands daily without charge, reflecting the Sikh values of service to others. 

One could spend a lifetime and never fully explore Delhi…it covers an area of 573 square miles and is home to 35 million inhabitants. But, in the span of two days we were able to grasp a bit of it. We saw a fair amount of the city, but what we found most surprising was the expanse of green space, the number of universities, and the prevalence of wealth in some parts of the city. As a counterpoint, we also experienced incredibly busy streets, many of which were inhabited with small shops and street food vendors.

(Note that you can see a larger version of any of the photos we’ve included by clicking on them; some were taken in portrait, so you’ll need to click on those photos to see them in full.)
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Leaving Delhi, we ventured on to Agra. The drive from Delhi revealed a different side of India, as we passed lively villages, farm machinery fabricated from diesel pump engines, and even the occasional camel.  The arrival in Agra brought us to the beautiful Oberoi Amarvilas. Upon entering the lobby, we were immediately surrounded by the incredible luxury that distinguishes the hotel as one of the world’s finest. And the view! The Taj Mahal can be seen from the lobby…and from every room and suite. See the photos below for more.

We ventured to the Taj Mahal twice, once the following morning and once in the evening. Truthfully, it’s emotionally overwhelming. The building itself is a monument to love, built by Emperor Shah Jahan, fifth of the great Mughals, in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. But as you approach the Taj Mahal you find yourself awestruck by the magnificence of the building itself. Built of white marble with a soaring dome and towers, it’s impressive from afar. But, as you get closer you see the incredible attention to minute detail in the form of tens of thousands of intricate designs of inlaid semiprecious stones. We spent some time there and returned later in the day. As the sun hits the monument from a different direction, the stone takes on a soft, almost rosey appearance. We had two truly memorable dinners at the Oberoi Amarvilas. The first was on our private patio overlooking the Taj Mahal. On the second evening we were treated to a stunning candlelit dinner set in the beautiful grounds of the hotel, while we were treated to dance and music performed by local artists. This is truly an amazing hotel, beautiful in every respect and situated in a location unique in the world.

The morning after our second dinner, I have to admit to being a bit overwhelmed as we prepared to leave. Looking out from our balcony for our last glimpse was one of those times when we both realized that we had experienced something magical, an experience we had waited for for a lifetime…and that it might never again be repeated. It brings a lump to you throat…a mixture of awe, gratitude, and even a bit of mourning as you leave it behind. 

But, as we left the Oberoi Amarvilas we knew we were heading to another great adventure, a visit to Ranthambore National Park. Our accommodations for the next two nights were in the tented encampment of the Oberoi Vanyavilas. Again…as happened repeatedly…we were showered with rose petals and given a blessing as we arrived. Our tent was, in truth, more like a luxurious personal lodge, beautifully appointed. Our meals at the main lodge were, as one would expect, incredible.

But the highlights were our jeep trips into Ranthambore. We ventured into the park three times. The first, one the evening of our arrival, introduced us to deer, antelopes, an assortment of native birds, and a few alligators. 

The greatest treasures were on the second day. While there’s never a guarantee, we were fortunate enough to encounter bengal tigers, a leopard, and sloth bears…along with an assortment of other creatures, great and small. We have to acknowledge the expertise of our guide, but also our good fortune. 

The considerable distance to our next destination, Udaipur, required us to take a brief and comfortable flight.

Since returning we’ve mentioned to everyone we’ve talked to about our trip our experience with the kindness and generosity of the Indian people. This flight revealed it in a simple and touching encounter with an 11 year old boy who was seated next to us on the flight, traveling to Udaipur as an unaccompanied minor. During the flight he ordered a Coke and we offered to pay. He politely refused and made it clear that he actually wanted three Cokes! Once the flight attendant brought them and he paid, he presented each of us with one of the Coca-Colas he had ordered, proclaiming “It is my duty,” suggesting he was obliged by faith and tradition to show kindness to visitors. We thanked him and as we left the plane, he bowed and touched Victoria’s foot with his hand as a show of respect. This was an experience that was on the one hand minor, but on the other hand revealed what we saw of the Indian spirit—kindness, generosity, and respect. It was truly humbling.

Upon arrival at the airport, our driver Gulab was waiting for us—again with his immaculate (and perfectly stocked) white van. We made our way to our next hotel, the Lake Palace, a gleaming oasis in the middle of Lake Pichola, accessible only by boat. We had breakfast with Puneet, then set out on our exploration of this truly beautiful city. Much of the India we saw was chaotic, but Udaipur, particularly the area near the lake and the City Palace, was immaculate. We toured the nearby temples of Elingli and Nagda, which date back to the fourth century.

We continued on to Devigarh Fort Palace, a unique hotel set a distance from the city, where we partook of a demonstration of local cooking. This area is particularly beautiful, set among rolling hills punctuated by temples and some very nice homes that serve as retreats for for the fortunate. 

We have to confess that this was one of our favorite cities…and the fact that we got to spend much of it in a truly lovely palace in the middle of a beautiful lake made it more than exceptional. Here, as in every place we stayed, the staff went above and beyond to make every aspect of our stay comfortable.

​We were truly treated like royalty. It is, it seems, the Indian way.

We had a considerable drive to get to our next destination, Jodhpur. In some parts of the world the roadside sights can be fairly mundane, but that is never the case in India. Along the way, we passed alongside camels, elephants, and endless array of shops and cafes, and more than a few gaudily decorated trucks, tractors and scooters driving on the wrong side of the road…it’s all just part of the ever-surprising panorama of Indian life. As a nod to Mike’s penchant for motorcycling, Puneet arranged for a stop at a shrine commemorating a motorcycle that was imbued with mystical powers following a crash that took the life of its owner many years ago. It’s a pilgrimage for Indian motorcyclists, but largely unknown to the rest of the world, and was just one example of how Puneet crafted our itinerary and experiences every day (on another occasion Puneet arranged for a Royal Enfield motorcycle to be brought to our hotel, so Mike could ride it around the grounds…to the rather great alarm of the security staff!!).

Our arrival at the Umaid Bhawan Palace was truly an epic experience in a thoroughly epic trip. Escorted into the grounds by horse-mounted guards, we felt once again as though we were royalty ourselves. Pulling up to the Palace, once the largest private home in the world, we found ourselves awestruck by the size and magnificence of one of the world’s great hotels, designed and built in the art deco style. 

We didn’t have much time to adjust, however, as we were informed that we had been invited to a cocktail reception with the Royal Family. It was truly a wonderful introduction, and we were greeted by the King and Queen as though we were lifelong friends. After a bit of time with them and other invitees, we returned to our suite to prepare for the midnight procession to a bonfire marking the beginning of Holi. The ceremony was marked by blessings, dancing, and music, with the bonfire being lit by the Maharaja as the ceremony drew to its climactic conclusion. 

The next morning was truly the dawn of Holi, as well as Mike’s birthday (!). We had been provided with white suits and after breakfast proceeded to a separate location on the grounds to once again celebrate with the Royals. The tossing of colored powders, fireworks, raucous music, and a general atmosphere of revelry marked this party of all parties. It was festive beyond belief, and accompanied by a wonderful array of Indian cuisine. 

But there was more. That evening we were asked to meet in the impressive rotunda to prepare for a meal that was well beyond anything we have ever experienced. We were both treated to a bit of royal treatment—a turban and sword for Mike, jewelry for Victoria. Then we were led to the beautiful gardens where musicians awaited while we dined on one of the more impressive meals we’ve ever been served. It was a little hard to keep track, but there were more than 20 dishes, as well as a birthday cake, the cutting of which was accompanied by fireworks!

From Jodhpur we flew to Varanasi. Again, the Micato touch was evident as every aspect of our transfer, air tickets, and handling of luggage were handled seamlessly by Puneet and his associates. It’s kind of the Micato way—the potentially challenging bits are all taken care of, and their guests are allowed to enjoy the journey unimpeded by concerns with logistics.

Varanasi…where to start? We had experienced plenty of the chaos of India up to this point—frenetic traffic with scooters competing with camels, elephants and tractors was, it seemed, the norm. But Varanasi turns it up a notch or two. It is the ultimate spiritual destination for those of the Hindu faith, situated on the banks of the Ganges River. It is here that millions come on pilgrimages, to bathe in the waters of the holiest of rivers, to commune with holy men, and in some instances to say farewell to those who have completed their mortal journey. Carnival rides compete for attention with funeral pyres. Commerce thrives alongside holy men of deep devotion. The throngs surging to the River are a force of nature.

It is the sum of all humanity. 

In writing this, it is the one place that induced writer’s block. The sensations are overwhelming. Varanasi will astound you. And, regardless of your faith (or lack thereof), it is the one place on Earth that you should visit in this lifetime. We are not of the Hindu faith, but you cannot help but be overwhelmed by the spectacle of the morning ceremony of priests welcoming the morning sun, or by the utter devotion to family and natural forces manifested by traditions that stretch back over millennia. 

We cruised the river (twice) and the sights were impressive—men and women bathing in the holy waters of the Ganges, religious ceremonies on the banks, and tented encampments surrounded by camels that are not movie sets…they are simply the reality of Varanasi.

After our first full day outing in the City, Puneet urged us to freshen up and meet him in the lobby. From there he led us outside for one of the most touching occasions in a journey that was filled with touching occasions, a Hindu ceremony performed by two priests, celebrating our 48 years of marriage. 

We also had a truly interest experience in Varanasi. After being led through a labyrinth of streets and Alleys by Puneet we arrived at a private residence where we were treated to a private performance by one of India’s most famous musicians and his students. I guarantee that this is not something you will find in any of the guide books. Only Micato. And notably, upon learning of the fact that one of the young men who had performed for us was facing the difficulty of having recently lost both of his parents, Puneet spontaneously declared that Micato would sponsor his studies going forward. The Micato Way. The Indian Way. The way we should all live.

That’s it, all I can write about Varanasi. Our photos may give a bit of a glimpse into this most amazing of cities, but you will never understand until you visit. And you must visit.

Mumbai is the perfect city to end a journey of this sort. It’s a huge city, home to fishermen and billionaires. A center of education and culture. Situated on a magnificent seashore. Our final hotel was the Oberoi Mumbai, a thoroughly modern luxury hotel that provided the perfect venue to reflect on a nearly three week trip through India. We visited a couple of truly extraordinary restaurants, did an early morning tour of the markets, visited some of city’s more unique sights, and even a museum that houses truly extraordinary cultural and artistic treasures. 

We shared tea with earnest workers preparing newspapers for distribution, walked among fishmongers whose traditions date back centuries, and visited a famed outdoor laundry. The flower market was a riot of color, with hundreds of thousands of beautiful blooms on display. The spice market offered insight into the culinary traditions of everyday Indian households. We drove by the world’s most costly private home (built at a cost of $2 billion), and walked with those of the most modest means. While a little more sedate in some respects than other places we had visited, Mumbai still offered the now-expected unexpected at nearly every turn. 

We lost track of how many times we used the word “amazing” on this journey. The array of beautiful sights, historical palaces, and new cultural experiences was incredible, almost to the point of being overwhelming. What we’ve presented here is merely a glimpse of what we experienced. We covered thousands of miles on the road and in the air. One small indication of the breadth of sights and experiences that we encountered is the fact that we amassed over 2,000 photographs. 

​As we boarded the first of our two flights to return home, we have to confess a bit of sadness as we left behind one of the most wondrous places on Earth. Every day in India had been filled with something new…and almost always unexpected. The  traditions of kindness and generosity were a constant, set amidst the contrast of grand palaces, magnificent temples, and many people of humble means. In India, one’s senses are constantly switched to “full on,” lest you miss something of significance. Truthfully, without the steady guidance of our Travel Director and now dear friend Puneet, we would have missed most of it. Not only did Puneet guide us through every one of the sights we had worked into our itinerary, he (and no doubt the crew of Micato) arranged for several magical moments that were wholly unexpected…a motorcycle ride, a visit to one of the country’s most renowned musicians, and introductions to royalty (in their homes) were experiences that we never expected or could have anticipated.

Tigers…royal processions…touching exchanges with everyday people. India is magical, mystical, and above all else, the ultimate expression of the human experience. Our description is but a feeble attempt to capture some of the highlights. You can only comprehend the splendor once you’ve lived it.

However you do it, get there in your lifetime. And if you want to do it in a way that deepens and enriches your experience make sure you plan your visit with our dear friends at Micato. 

We’re crazy about dogs, and we’re apparently not alone. Pet owners in the United States spent over $150 billion on their pets in 2024 and Morgan Stanley predicts that number will hit $260 billion by the end of the decade. People love their pets.

Helping our clients plan for travel with their pets has become a significant part of what we do. Our journey down this road actually started over 25 years ago, when through a series of events no one could have predicted, we ended up taking a client’s Maine Coon Cat into our home for several months. Yes, these things happen when you develop a close relationship with your clients.

Our period of cat stewardship ended with us loading this cat (Lyndon) into a limousine that took him to a nearby airport, where he was flown by private jet to the home of our client’s relatives in Durango, Colorado. Lyndon went on to live a long life in a loving home. 

Our client profiles often contain as much information about a client’s dogs as their children, and we frequently help with transportation and accommodations for every member of the family, including those with four legs. Over the years we’ve learned a thing or two, particularly about traveling with dogs…

Preparing Your Pet for Travel
First and foremost we’ve found though our clients’ experiences that a healthy, well mannered dog makes the travel experience infinitely better. Your pet’s health is the primary consideration, and we assume that you will have that well in hand. For those traveling abroad, meeting the health requirements of the country you’ll be visiting is of utmost importance, as are the requirements for bringing your pet back into the United States. Since these are such critical components of planning your trip, we turn to business partners who specialize in these critical steps.

It’s equally critical to ensure your pet is ready to handle the challenges of thriving in new and unfamiliar surroundings. For dogs, we suggest starting with professional training, which results in a calmer, better behaved dog that is acclimated to the stresses of travel. From the time we welcomed Sophie, The Official Dog of Elán, into our family our intentions were to bring her along on our travels. Since the time we picked her up, she’s been on the road with us; it’s no exaggeration to say that Sophie has easily logged over 40,000 miles with us as we transit back and forth between our offices. Her inaugural Big Girl trip was last year, when we traveled with her to a Tennessee cabin for a week of touring that included a visit to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and a sojourn to Mardi Growl, a celebration of dogs in Knoxville. She was a champ, but there comes a time when every dog owner realizes that their pup needs a little bit of finishing work. Once Sophie reached adolescence she found her independent “I don’t necessarily have to listen to you” streak, and it was time for outside help.

When we found that one of the country’s true superstar trainers was based just over an hour away from our Wisconsin home we immediately reached out. A visit to Italy and France provided a window of opportunity to introduce Sophie to her new training environment and the results were phenomenal; the slightly naughty pup that we dropped off was returned to us as a well mannered and obedient dog after four weeks of finishing school with Rising Starr K9 (https://www.risingstarrk9.com/). Rising Starr’s owner Rick Pederson and his wife Joane provide a truly exceptional opportunity for a dog to be trained in myriad environments—in their home, in classroom settings with other dogs, and in a variety of social settings, including offices, clinics, stores and motorcycle dealerships. At the end of this process, Sophie emerged with poise and a full range of obedience skills. Remarkably, she also was independently tested and achieved three levels of certification through the AKC’s Canine Good Citizen program.

A Four Seasons Dog?
Having been set up for success, we then put Sophie to the ultimate test: Would she be able to pass the test of a visit to the Four Seasons Chicago? The answer, as it turned out, was “Absolutely, yes.” We loaded Sophie into our vehicle for the ride to Chicago. Upon our arrival, we were all greeted enthusiastically at the hotel’s entrance with the warm welcome known to all who have ever entered the “Four Seasons bubble.” After a brief walk to introduce her to the neighborhood, Sophie proudly trotted into the Four Seasons to universal approbation. She proved to be a real superstar, greeting staff and guests—once she was given permission, of course—with the sort of “I love you more than life itself” enthusiasm that golden retrievers exhibit so naturally.

As with every Four Seasons, their Chicago hotel sets the benchmark by which all others are measured. Having recently undergone a top to bottom renovation the Four Seasons Chicago, situated on the Magnificent Mile, hits the mark for an exceptional hotel experience in every way. Once you’re greeted at the entrance you travel to the seventh floor lobby, and are immediately impressed by the sophisticated tone of welcoming luxury that distinguishes the brand. Of course, Sophie was immediately the object of much fawning attention by staff and guests alike, a role she quickly and happily adopted. We were shown to our beautiful suite, which quickly met with Sophie’s approval. And why wouldn’t it? The hotel had set up a dog bed inside a tent for Sophie, put out water and food bowls, and lavished her with treats and toys. While Sophie brought her own food, it’s worth noting that the hotel’s Chef will assist with meeting a pet’s special dietary needs by making meals in house. 

It’s within the discretion of each luxury hotel property to determine whether to permit pets and to design a program for them and their owners. The Four Seasons Chicago not only provides the amenities we have shared, but also can arrange for pet-sitting or walking through the concierge desk. As with many other aspects of the luxury hotel experience The Four Seasons sets high standards, but a number of our other luxury hotel and resort partners offer similar amenities.

Whatever your destination, if you want to experience it with your pet there are numerous options. It’s truly extraordinary for a hotel to go to the lengths that the Four Seasons went to, and there are often additional charges, but if you’re among those of us who might want to occasionally travel with your pet, let us help you discover the possibilities. We get it…and we’ll help to arrange it.

Jetting with Pets
The Four Seasons Chicago was an easy drive for us, but many travelers are looking to travel further afield. In recent years pet airlines have come into existence, a service that may be exactly what you need. Elán partners with ​K9 Jets (https://www.k9jets.com/), who offer a unique service, flying owners, along with their pets, to and from locations in the United States to foreign destinations. 

In addition to the flights themselves, K9 Jets offers assistance in securing the essential paperwork needed to bring pets into another country, bringing experience and expertise to a process that few of us have had to navigate on our own. Their website provides a fascinating insight into this creative service: https://www.k9jets.com/..

K9 Jets is a fantastic option for those traveling to select overseas destinations, but we also have access to options for charter aircraft within the States or abroad for those who may prefer to travel solely with their own family and pets, and this service is in fact one that we frequently provide through our fully certified partners, who carry the highest level of safety certifications and can whisk you and your furry companions to a variety of destinations at high subsonic speeds.

The focus on travel with pets now means you no longer have to leave them behind. It can require a bit more planning to find the right destination and figure out the best way to get there, but it is entirely within the capabilities of Elán to arrange for your four-legged family members to travel with you as you explore the world. If you’d like to explore the possibilities, please phone us at 630.420.3538 and start the process.  

ESeldom do we have the opportunity to spend this much time on a single journey, but it was time for us to experience Explora Journey’s oceangoing resort, the Explora II, and their 16-day exploration of the Mediterranean provided the perfect vehicle (literally and figuratively) for us to check off some important items. We not only experienced the full range of amenities and activities aboard the ship, but we were able to schedule meetings and site inspections with providers from Rome to Morocco to Barcelona.

First, a bit about the ship: Explora II is the second ship launched by Explora Journeys. Commissioned by the Aponte family, whose maritime legacy spans centuries, this ship is the realization of their dream of creating a luxury resort at sea. As a recognized expert in the realm of luxury resorts, Victoria's consulted with the company through the concept and design stages. 

The ship is exquisite, cutting a sleek profile evocative of the great super yachts. Once aboard, the design, finishes, and amenities reflect tremendous attention to detail, from the soaring lobby bar to the tastefully appointed restaurants that include a steakhouse, a seafood restaurant, an Asian restaurant, and a fine French dining experience, as well as a venue featuring a multiple course prix fixe menu that truly rivals the most sophisticated dining establishments. This brief overview gives a glimpse into the unparalleled beauty of of the ship: https://youtu.be/qx_9Nt6kYpI?si=VLh7A7FLMsAehC5N.

Our suite, a Cove Residence, was spacious with a separate bedroom, spacious closet, and a combination living/dining room, as well as a huge balcony featuring a whirlpool tub. Outfitted with fully updated electronics, comfortable seating areas, a coffee bar/minibar, and a makeup table, it in every way lived up to the goal of recreating the experience of a luxury hotel.

Best part? It’s hard to say, but our personal Suite Ambassador, Karthik, made the entire journey a seamless experience. He oversaw daily cleaning and refreshment of consumables, made our restaurant and excursion reservations, and even coordinated two cocktail gatherings in our suite. 

We were truly impressed by the variety and quality of restaurants on board Explora II. One of the restaurants, Anthology, is a paid (extra cost) prix fixe dining experience of multiple courses with an optional wine pairing. The food was exquisite and worth the nominal additional cost. 

Sakura is a pan-asian restaurant, Marble & Co. is a steakhouse, Fil Rouge serves French inspired cuisine, and Club Med focuses on shared plates. Emporium Marketplace is open for all meals and features a number of made-to-order cooking stations with a range of offerings ranging from cheeseburgers to wood-fired pizza to excellent seafood. Passengers never touch the food until it’s handed to them, so there’s none of the concern one might have with a more typical buffet seen among competitors. The standards of quality and food safety here and in all the restaurant are beyond reproach. 

This particular journey saw us visiting Sorrento, Palermo, Tunis, Tangier, two of the Balearic Islands, Barcelona, Gibraltar and Malaga, plus more. Rather than engaging in a droning play-by-play, we’re attaching a selection of photos in the slideshow below. We did, however, want to share some of our favorites.

First among them was a day aboard a rented yacht, during which we visited beautiful Ischia, becoming a favorite of Italian vacationers. We enjoyed a fantastic meal on Ischia, then hopped  back to the mainland in time to do a bit of exploring and reboard. Menorca, one of the Balearic Islands, was a surprise. Beautiful small towns and a beautiful rolling countryside that reminded us of Oxfordshire, with thousands of miles of stone fences.  As is always the case on our travels this was a working trip, and we made sure that we visited two properties that we know will be of interest to our clients. Assisting us with this portion of our trip was Balearic Touring, a destination management company specializing in Spain’s Balearic Islands. After a tour of Ciutadella, which is a small city oozing in history, we sent on to tour Vestige Son Vell, then went on to tour a dairy farm and cheese factory that has risen to international prominence for the quality of its products.

Vestige Son Vell is one of Europe’s truly unique hotels, situated largely in an 18th century manor (with additional suite options in adjacent buildings), with an emphasis on casual elegance. The grounds feature extensive gardens, pools, and an organic fruit and vegetable garden that supplies the kitchen. On every trip we take we note those places that we “absolutely have to come back to,” and Son Vell is among them (https://vestigecollection.com/son-vell/).

Another of our “must do” experiences was a visit to the Alhambra, the sprawling Moorish palace of Granada that spans a history of nearly 800 years. This was on Mike’s “must do” list once saw that we would be visiting the port of Malaga. Mike’s Grandpa Bob had given him Washington Irving’s Tales of the Alhambra when he was a wee lad, and his interest was piqued during a brief tour of the palace in high school days. Though 50 years had passed, the Alhambra beckoned and we answered the call. It was a magnificent day.

Construction of the Alhambra began in 1238 under the direction of Muhammad I Ibin Al-Ahmad and underwent a series of enhancements and additions that have made it one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Our transport to and from the port of Malaga and our day of touring was arranged by our friends at Made for Spain. After a comfortable ride to Granada we were met by our guide (who spent much of his childhood within the confines of the Alhambra) and began a tour of the exquisite gardens. The architectural and engineering genius of the builders is hard to comprehend. Suffice it to say that the gardens, infused with pools and fountains, are truly among the most beautiful we’ve seen anywhere. 

The key to fully experiencing a site as large and complex as the Alhambra is to do so with a professional guide. We, of course, turned to our trusted partners at Made for Spain to plan the day. They provided beautiful transportation, a memorable lunch, and our highly qualified guide (who had actually spent most of his childhood on the Alhambra’s grounds). Under his guidance we skirted the crowds and enjoyed unique insights into one of the world’s best preserved Islamic Palaces, which later saw the artful melding of Spanish Renaissance architecture to create a place of unrivaled beauty. Hugely important moments in world history took place within the walls, including the grant given to Christopher Columbus by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand sponsoring his exploration of the New World.

One could spend days or weeks exploring the Alhambra, but our schedule demanded that we leave for a visit to a phenomenal restaurant overlooking the City of Granada. Paella was ordered. Sangria flowed. And then it was time to go back to our beautiful resort at sea, the Explora II.

During the course of our 16 days at sea, we had other similarly astounding experiences. And we came to fully grasp the allure of a seagoing journey with Explora Journeys. The ships exude a sense of place, though that place is moving. Guests enjoy a level of accommodation and cuisine that rivals the finest resorts. Comfortable bars, lounges, and pools provide ample opportunities for pure relaxation. And along the way those who travel with Explora have the chance to visit a constantly unfolding portfolio of exceptional experiences ashore that span the world. 

It’s also worth mentioning that in the world of luxury travel an Explora Journey represents a very fair value. Sumptuous suites with every amenity are available (and they are stunning), but for those who are less focused on the size of their suite, smaller, though still quite luxurious, accommodations are available. 

Our Cove Residence was wonderful. A two-room suite, it featured a separate bedroom, a living/dining room, bathroom, walk-in closet, and dressing table, as well as ample storage space. This brings us to what we see as a real point of importance—the sheer convenience of an ocean journey. When we arrived at our port of embarkation (Civitavecchia) we were met by a porter and our butler, who took us to our suite. Once there we unpacked—the only time in our two-week plus journey—and settled into our comfortable accommodations. Every need was attended to by our butler, from having clothes laundered to serving us meals at our dining table to making dinner reservations for us. The suite was maintained to a level that can only be described as immaculate. The fact that every day or two we found ourselves in some of the Mediterranean’s most astounding destinations was icing on the cake. 

Really, you must experience this type of travel. It makes it difficult to imagine anything else. 

We’d be happy to review the options aboard Explora’s ships with you and would also note that booking through Elán or another Virtuoso agency confers exclusive benefits that may not otherwise be available. Now is the time to start planning your Explora journey.

          Part Two: A Trip Back to Italy and France

The past few months have been a whirlwind of travel, and we barely had time to unpack and do laundry before it was time to board another flight to Italy. One of the things we’re most proud of is the network of colleagues in the travel industry who have become the best of friends over the span of our decades in business. Twenty five years ago our friend Andrea Grisdale founded a destination management company she named IC Bellagio, specializing in working with travel advisors to provide unrivaled experiences for those traveling to Italy. Andrea was throwing a party to celebrate and we were thrilled to accept her invitation. So it was back to Italy (never a hardship)!

Upon arrival we jumped into our awaiting car and started towards our ultimate destination, Casa Maria Luigia, just outside of Modena. This delightful guesthouse is owned and operated by world famous Chef Massimo Bottura and his wife Lara. The main restaurant on the premises is Francescana, a Michelin three-star restaurant that has twice been named the world’s top restaurant. We had but a few hours to shake off any vestiges of jet lag and prepare for a nine-course dinner at this world renowned establishment. Meals are served in a family style setting, with four tables of six diners. We were seated with a woman from the Philippines who was traveling with her son (whose mission in life is to dine at the world’s finest restaurants) and a couple from New York City who had immigrated to the States from Crimea during the time of conflict there many years ago.

Exquisite does not begin to describe the food. The dishes are introduced by members of the kitchen staff and guests have the opportunity to interact with them and watch the final preparation and plating of each dish. It was a “Wow!” experience…amazing food served and presented in an unpretentious manner, with the emphasis on quality and creativity. 

Guest accommodations are equally imaginative. The Casa is decorated with an incredible collection of modern art, all set amidst beautiful gardens. There is a second restaurant on the premises, as well as a facility that manufactures authentic Balsamic and a separate facility that Massimo has designated The Playground, a building filled with games, and with Massimo’s collections.

One night was really not enough time, but the next day was filled with more discoveries as we toured local food producers en route to our destination in Imola, where that evening we joined up with Andrea, the team of IC Bellagio, and industry luminaries from around the world to begin a celebration of a quarter century of excellence. The evening at ___ featured foods from local producers in the Emilia Romagna region, accompanied by music (and dancing!). The following morning we took a wonderful foot tour of Modena, taking in the truly impressive sites of this historic university city, then returned to resume the celebration of IC Bellagio. It was truly a magical event, beginning with an operatic performance and a cinematic recap of IC Bellagio’s 25 years of excellence. After the tenor’s last note we were led through the streets of Imola by a musical ensemble, capping the evening with a beautiful dinner in Imola’s central square.

It was wonderful to connect with so many friends from around the world, but the next day saw us on the road once again…literally, on the road, as we were chauffeured through the Italian countryside to the French Riveria, ultimately arriving in Nice at the Hôtel Du Couvent, a Luxury Collection Hotel located in the heart of the old city (https://www.hotelducouvent.com/). The hotel is a recently opened property within a restored convent that is centuries old and had been long abandoned. The scope of this project is breathtaking, as is everything within the walls of the old convent…beautiful rooms with exquisite amenities, excellent dining, and service that rivals the best anywhere. It’s notable that Nice now has a true luxury property within easy driving distance to the airport. 

And the food in Nice…close to Italy, it is distinctly French in style, with a nod to Italian dining. On our first night we opted for the casual atmosphere of Le Bistrot du les Surruriers, the hotel’s casual and intimate venue located just outside the main gate, where guests and locals mingle over perfectly prepared dishes. The next day our butler took us on a brief walking tour of the city center, then set us loose to browse the local market and shops. Another great lunch was followed by a tour of the hotel’s grounds (much of the produce used by the restaurant is grown on site), followed by dinner at Le Restaurant du Couvent. 

Early to bed, because the next day we had a flight from Nice to Bordeaux. We approached this flight with some trepidation because we were on EasyJet, which is a no-frills European airline. However, it was an easy flight of around an hour. From the airport our driver took us to a part of France that is unknown to many Americans. The Limousin region, now part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine administrative region, actually seems much like the beautiful Driftless Area of Wisconsin, where our cabin is located. Rolling hills and verdant forests are dotted with innumerable lakes, as well as fields populated with Limousin cattle.

What one doesn’t find in rural Wisconsin are 13th Century Chateaux converted to luxury hotels, exactly what we found when we arrived at Domaine des Etangs, Auberge’s newest European property (https://aubergeresorts.com/domainedesetangs). The property encompasses a 2,500 acre estate with lodging in the “Castle,” adjacent converted barns, and cottages scattered through the property. Our cottage was accessible by car and we were quickly assigned a little electric car, then followed our host to find ourselves in an exquisite little home of our own, complete with a large fireplace, sleeping loft, and a well-equipped kitchen. It was a wonderful little retreat. We enjoyed one meal there, delivered by staff, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner in their highly touted restaurant. On our second day there the staff prepared a beautiful picnic lunch. We packed it in our little electric Renault and found the perfect lakeside site for our picnic, with a view of the Castle. 

A highlight was our day in a chauffeured Citroen 2CV limo, complete with Champagne service. Our driver took us on an extended tour of the area, taking in the bucolic scenery of lakes, hills, and limousin cattle. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we stopped for a memorable midday meal at a small restaurant in an old mill that has earned a Michelin star. 

In all, we spent three nights at Domain des Etangs. It is supremely relaxing, beautifully appointed, and affords guests that elusive combination of comfort, luxury, relaxation and exceptional dining that the French have mastered. But next time we’ll make it a longer stay and we will definitely build in time to branch out even further in this sublime…and largely undiscovered…region of France.

On our final morning we were met by a driver who picked us up at our cottage and drove us to a local train station. From there we boarded the TGV train to Charles de Gaulle Airport. It was a comfortable and speedy ride, with our train hitting nearly 190 mph on the fastest stretches. Tremendously convenient, too, with the train terminal connecting directly to the airport.

​Then, back to the USA. 

We’ve provided direct links to some of the properties we visited, but we always encourage travelers to book through Elán or one of the trusted advisors affiliated with Virtuoso. With our worldwide collection of contacts and partners we always strive to deliver a travel experience that far exceeds expectations. Elán…Travel Beyond.

We recently visited our long-ago home, England. It was a fairly short visit, only six days, but any time we return it feels like going home. We flew from Chicago’s O’Hare IAP to Heathrow, arriving in the wee hours of the morning, and immediately caught a ride to Le Manoir au Quat’Saisons, the legendary hotel established by Chef Raymond Blanc nearly 40 years ago in rural Oxfordshire (https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons/).

As we were flying to Heathrow, we contrasted this trip with our first trip together to London, back around 1980. Mike was in law school and Victoria was working as a flight attendant for American Airlines. Mike had arranged his class schedule to have a three-day weekend, and Victoria scored an airline employee offer for us to fly to London for around $100/each on a space-available basis. We had some spending money, but not a lot.

On that weekend over 40 years ago we packed our bags, headed to Logan Airport, and found ourselves in London a few hours later. Taking the train into the city centre, we hopped off and, dragging our suitcases behind us, set off to find a place to stay. We stopped at a cheap hotel (as I recall, around £20) and snagged a room. We walked up the stairs and entered it, and were aghast at the sight before us. Alas, it was little more than a flophouse. In fact, “flophouse” might be a generous description. 

Nonetheless, we stayed, did a bit of touring that day, and then struck off the next morning for better digs. For a bit more (I think around £29), we ended up in a charming, somewhat ancient little hotel that had once been the lair of highwaymen…at least that’s what the owner told us. Over our three days there, we were on the move non-stop, sampling local fare in cheaper restaurants, buying half-price theatre tickets, and just generally strolling the City, gawking at sites we’d only known about through books; Buckingham Palace, Pall Mall, Piccadilly Circus…. 

It was the beginning of our decades-long exploration of the world.

Just a couple of years later we were lucky to find ourselves living on the outskirts of Oxfordshire, a dream come true. We traveled with great friends, learned a bit of history, and rubbed elbows with the Royal Family on a few occasions. Over our three years in England we were on the move constantly—weekly trips into London and over two dozen trips by ferry to the Continent. We were exposed to so much; it was an opportunity few have and we took full advantage.

This visit was, for us, a homecoming. Our first destination--Le Manoir au Quat’Saisons (https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons/), was not far from our long-ago home on the edge of Oxford. We heard of Le Manoir’s arrival back when we lived in Oxfordshire and visited, though at that earlier time we lacked the financial resources to do anything more than stroll the grounds. This time around we were actually able to fully experience this extraordinary destination.

Le Manoir is exquisite, a fifteenth century manor house that has been expanded and modernized over the years to create what is now a beautiful hotel that incorporates a storied restaurant and cooking school. Chef Blanc’s quest for perfection is evident at every turn, and he has had a hand in selecting every detail, from the restaurant’s menu to the layout of the gardens and paths. Our time there included meals at the restaurant (which has…almost unbelievably…maintained two Michelin stars for almost 40 years), a tour of the garden, and time relaxing in the comfortable, perfectly appointed lounges where cocktails, teas and light snacks are served. Our suite was truly luxurious. Food is a priority here: there are 50 chefs on staff.

We took advantage of our time in Oxfordshire to visit some old stomping grounds—our favorite pub (the Oxford Arms in Kirtlington), Blackwell’s Book Store, and the grounds of  Oxford University (Little known fact: Victoria was the first American ever accepted by the Oxford Bach Choir, and frequently performed at the Sheldonian Theatre). We even made a brief stop at our old home in Kidlington, where the present owner invited us to take a look at the garden—picture perfect, as it had been under our stewardship. 

It really was, for us, like going home. Our time in Oxfordshire was wonderful, but we had to get back to London, which stands in stark contrast to rural, somewhat sleepy, Great Milton.  Bustling with tourists and Londoners who were just out and about, London offers it all—great theatre, world class dining and shopping that rivals that anywhere, all set in one of the world’s most historic cities.  We were taken directly to the Beaumont, one of the City’s iconic hotels. Again, back in The Day we spent a great deal of time in London. Our home was near the Oxford Ring Road, which connected to the M4 Motorway, and at perhaps some supralegal speeds we could be in London in just over an hour. Theatre, iconic shopping, beautiful parks, and, above all, royal pageantry were always on tap when we visited. Often we did so more than once a week.

Returning to London was truly magical, though the weather was damp and cool. We stayed in a luxurious suite at the Beaumont, one of the more intimate and approachable properties among the top tier of London hotels, located in Mayfair (https://www.thebeaumont.com/). A hint of the soul of this hotel is revealed by the concierge’s recommendation for a friendly, easy dinner: Chippy’s Fish & Chips, a phenomenally good place to eat, where we breezed past a long queue, thanks to the reservation she made for us. This recommendation reflects what we always experience at the Beaumont—the highest level of comfort, served alongside personal warmth and gracious service.

Over three days in London we explored a few other dining destinations, but more importantly, updated our knowledge of some of the other hotels that are on our clients’ must-visit lists.

Our time in London was too short, but we were able to visit two other hotels that are more than worthy of one’s consideration when visiting—Claridge’s (https://www.claridges.co.uk/) and Raffles London at the WOW (https://www.raffles.com/london/).

Claridge’s is a benchmark for luxury hotels in London—something every London hotelier would tell you—and during our visit we toured the top suites, which are truly remarkable.

Raffles is equally extraordinary, though in a different way…situated in the building once occupied by the War Office, the hotel represents the culmination of a years-long project to preserve an historic building while converting it to modern use. There are too many highlights to mention them all, but certainly at or near the top was touring the Granville Suite, once the office of Sir Winston Churchill. If you are searching for a London hotel that exemplifies the highest standards of luxury while embracing an incredible history, this may be the right choice.

Quite a bit of our time in London was devoted to long strolls…through the parks, down the crowded avenues, and occasionally stopping in to check out shops that can be found nowhere else on the planet. And on a cool, damp day there can be no greater pleasure than an unplanned stop at Brown’s Hotel for hot tea. So we did.

SPECTACULAR OCEANSIDE ESCAPE
Surrounded by azure waters, verdant forest reserves and postcard-perfect beaches, your Greek oasis is immersed in the enchanting beauty of the Aegean Sea. Minutes from the heart of Athens yet steps away from the ocean, soak up the gentle air of nostalgia at One&Only Aesthesis, where our elevated beach bungalows, chic residences and exceptional villas are imbued with mid-century glamour.
 
AN UNTOLD WORLD OF NOSTALGIA
One&Only Aesthesis recalls the 1960s heyday of the Athenian Riviera, reigniting cosmopolitan glamour on the shores of Glyfada.
 
DESIGNING AN ICON
Three acclaimed architecture firms – AUDO, A6Architects, and K-Studio – along with interior design studio Muza Lab, were commissioned to bring One&Only Aesthesis to life. The result is a captivating resort where the highest levels of aesthetics, sustainability and execution are grounded in a deep respect for the past. 
 
THE ATHENIAN RIVIERA, REVEALED
Let One&Only Aesthesis unlock the wonders of the Athenian Riviera. Relax in our spectacular pools and private sandy beaches and embrace the art of wellness at Greece's first Guerlain Spa. Beyond the resort, we reveal a new side to the ancient capital, with curated adventures that take you to the cultured heart of Athens, just a 30-minute drive away.
 
CULINARY JOURNEYS
Delight in Mediterranean-inspired day-to-night dining as we take you from relaxed breakfasts and laidback poolside lunches to sunset cocktails, vibrant tapas, and late-night libations. At the heart of the One&Only Aesthesis dining experiences is a pair of destination restaurants from master chefs Ettore Botrini and Paco Morales, who bring their Italian, Greek and Moorish culinary artistry to the table.
 
Resort Facts

• 127 keys: 95 private beach and garden bungalows (all with private pools); 19 rooms and suites and a signature Villa One with private pool
• 21-hectares of exclusive beachfront estate in Southern Athens with 1.6km of private seafront and a 6-hectare forest reserve
• Three restaurants and a bar
• Three pools tow beaches, including adults-only pool and beach
• Destination Beach Club with pools, stylish cabanas, restaurant, bar and entertainment
• Club One with tennis courts
• Greece’s First Guerlain Spa

UNDISCOVERED GREEK GEM
Occupying a dazzling, 65-hectare beachfront site on the west side of Kéa island in the Cyclades, One&Only Kéa Island glimmers with the promise of discretion and seclusion, just a stone’s throw from Athens. Boasting flawless all-villa accommodation by the sea, the resort will also offer an enviable collection of One&Only Private Homes to call your own
 
Reconnect with natural rhythms at One&Only Kéa Island and experience the revitalizing and grounding Mediterranean lifestyle in its purest form. Explore the resort and its grounds, or roam further afield to discover the verdant charms of the Cyclades' most fertile island. Whatever lures you here, feel the secrets of Kéa come alive, igniting deep passions and inspiring the soul.
 
FLAWLESS VILLAS
Featuring monolithic, vertically oriented architecture, our contemporary villas hug the hillside above the beach. Each villa comes with a private pool, terrace, courtyard and fireplace. Most sport panoramic, almost 360-degree views of the sparkling sea and bay, bringing the blue-and-gold scenery in.
 
ON ISLAND TIME
A secluded enclave amid cobalt Aegean waters, Kéa island ignites deep passions among adventurous travellers. It’s a place of rocky cliffs, rolling olive groves and ancient civilizations. Reconnect with the elements as you explore land and sea through tailored experiences and itineraries.
 
AEGEAN WONDER
Inspired by the azure blue waters of the Cyclades, One&Only Kéa Island’s one- and two-bedroom villas capture the serenity of island life with secluded spaces, indigenous materials and modern design elements that bring the outdoors in. Find room to relax and let your mind wander.
 
Resort Facts

• 73keys: one and two bedroom villas, all with private pools, terraces, courtyards and a fireplace
• All villas feature almost 360-degree see and bay views
• Located a stone’s throw form Athens: 40 minute ferry ride from Athens Lavrio Port or 10-minute helicopter ride from Athens International Airport
• 65-hectare site located in the Bay of Voskopos in western side of Kea Island
• Two restaurants and a bar
• Four pools: two main outdoor pools, two spa pools (indoor and outdoor)

DISCOVER THE LOCATION
Positioned just off the open Adriatic coastline, at the elegant entrance to Boka Bay in Herceg Novi, One&Only Portonovi is the jewel of Montenegro's flourishing new riviera. Rejoice in pristine beaches, sun-soaked sailing, and forest hiking. Wander the cobbled streets and fresco-filled churches of neighboring Medieval towns like Perast and Kotor. Where culture meets natural beauty, glamour, and adventure, you can experience the most unique things to do in Montenegro.
 
THE JEWEL OF THE ADRIATIC
Resplendent at the entrance of Boka Bay, a fjord-like idyll on Montenegro’s Adriatic Sea, One&Only Portonovi is the jewel of Europe’s most fashionable new riviera, all year round. A rare nautical playground offering fresh air adventures through sapphire waters, dramatic forest, and medieval towns. Perfectly balanced with chic, water-front relaxation, world-class dining, and pioneering wellness by Chenot.
 
ONE-OF-A-KIND LOCATION
Nestled in the southeast of Europe, neighboring the established hotspots of tourism Croatia, Greece and Italy - Montenegro is a safe, undiscovered destination of stunning beauty, that should be part of any European circuit.
 
CHIC & PALATIAL LIVING
Located in the heart of Boka Bay, our 60 acres of sprawling resort overlooks a dramatic coastline of mountain vistas and calm waters, emphasizing a sense of privacy and chic palatial living.
 
CHENOT WELLNESS PROGRAMMES
Discover a selection of curated wellness programmes at Chenot Espace including a 6-day Detox Programme; 4-day De-Stress & Re-Charge Programme; 3-day Fitness Programme; and a 2-day Weekend Spa programme.
 
NATURAL BEAUTY, REFLECTED
Inspired by cerulean seas and emerald valleys, terracotta rooftops and crisp silver mountainsides, your private sanctuary reflects and amplifies the beauty of Boka Bay. Mesmerizing views are drawn inside your private world, perfectly framed by floor-to-ceiling glass. Wake up to orange skies, gentle birdsong, and the buzz of passing boats - a show to keep you mesmerized all day.
 
Resort Facts

• 123 keys, 105 rooms, six suites and twelve villas – including a Villa One with private pool and ten Signature Villas with private pool, beach and jetty
• Three restaurants and a bar, including Tapasake
• Chenot Espace, the ultimate center for medically inspired wellness
• Access to a 238-berth D-Marin Portonovi Marina, as well as private jetty for One&Only guests

There are a number of ways to experience Alaska, but we wanted to go a bit deeper than most. Our journey began (and ultimately ended) at the Captain Cook Hotel in Anchorage. From there we ventured out and spent time at Alyeska Lodge, Talkeetna Lodge, and Winterlake Lodge, then on to Sheldon Chalet, described later in greater detail. Each day was wondrous, but in short we experienced a bush plane flight to view gigantic brown bears (Lake Clark National Park); a day on Prince William Sound (where our Captain, Gabe, took us to glaciers, puffin rookeries, an improbable oyster farm, and finished with a meal of freshly caught and gathered sea bass, shrimp, and beach lettuce); a ski plane excursion to Denali National Park’s Ruth Glacier; and a three-night stay at legendary Winterlake Lodge (where a storied tradition of culinary excellence combines with glacier trekking, dog sled mushing, and relaxation in a wood-fired sauna).



Much of what we experienced can only be done with a considerable amount of logistical coordination (Thanks, A&K!); because most of our destinations within Alaska were quite remote, we relied on of bush planes, ski planes, float planes, and helicopters. We traveled by aircraft nearly 20 times to reach lodges, lakes, glaciers and mountaintops. Each of our days in Alaska left us in amazement at what we had experienced. And we’re serious about this—the cumulative impact of immense beauty, wildlife, and the ruggedness of it all consistently left us wondering how the next day could be any better. And yet, each day brought new delights.

The Shadows of Giants

We stand in awe of giants. And sometimes we are privileged to meet them face to face.

Of our Earth’s giants, Denali is arguably the greatest, rising 20,310 feet, three and a half miles from base to summit. Compared to the world’s tallest mountain, Denali beats Mount Everest by over a mile when measured from base to summit.

We first encountered Denali on our ski plane excursion from Talkeetna, Alaska, a flight that took us near the mountain, landing on the Ruth Glacier, an immense ice field within Denali National Park and Reserve. While The Great One was partially shrouded by clouds on the day of our first encounter, the mountain and those surrounding were impressively tall and rugged.

Giants come in human form, too. Over the years we’ve had the good fortune to meet a few. One of Alaska’s giants, Don Sheldon, was the moving force behind what is arguably the most remote and unique luxury property on Earth, Sheldon Chalet.

We’ll get to the details below, but Don Sheldon, one of Alaska’s most famous aviators, is the man who first envisioned this unforgettable chalet  (https://sheldonchalet.com/legacy/).

His story is told in Wager With The Wind ( https://a.co/d/dPIYlzl). A legendary Alaskan, Don was responsible, along with Brad Washburn, for surveying Denali and the surrounding mountain range. Of equal importance, his stature as a bush pilot was unrivaled, and his exploits included countless rescues of climbers and downed air crews. 

During the course of his life, Don staked a claim to 4.99 acres of land atop a mountain peak (in geological terms, a nunatak) jutting up from the 35-square mile ice field known as Ruth Glacier. He built the Mountain House on this peak, a small structure which became a stop for his friends and family, as well as climbers. When Denali National Park expanded to encompass the area surrounding Don’s land, it remained the only privately owned property within the Park. 
​
Don and his wife Roberta, with whom he built a successful air charter company, had a dream that was not realized in their lifetimes. But, some time later, when the family was in the course of sorting through family belongings, his son Robert and Marne, Don’s daughter-in-law, came across the blueprints for what is now known as Sheldon Chalet, a guest house design that Don had hoped to build on the nunatak. Those blueprints ignited the imagination of the Sheldon family, thus beginning a quest to bring Don’s dream to fruition. The subsequent years brought revisions to the original plans, and the edifice was built by the family in what is certainly the most improbable place on Earth, a mountaintop standing in the middle of a vast Glacier in the shadow of Denali. It would not be an exaggeration to call it the most remote luxury lodge that exists. 

We had to visit.

Our time in Alaska up to this point had been wondrous, but nothing prepares you for the voyage to Sheldon Chalet. We were picked up in Anchorage and whisked to Talkeetna in an A-Star AS350 helicopter. Upon landing at the Talkeetna Airfield we were met by Robert and Marne Sheldon, and their son Ryan. Shortly after, Marne flew on to the Chalet. Ryan babysat us until it was our time to join Marne. While we were waiting, the weather moved in…steady, at times torrential, rain. The prospects for getting to the Chalet seemed to be fading. Our departure was pushed back. Then the rain slackened a bit, and it was back to the helicopter.

​It took two attempts to get to the Chalet, as our initial approach was met with a wall of clouds. But, no worries…our pilot turned back towards Talkeetna and landed in a remote area, while back in Talkeetna close attention was being paid to radar and satellite imagery by Robert, who was in radio contact with our pilot. His observation of what was happening in the mountains revealed a brief break in the weather. After waiting a few minutes, on we went, navigating through the impossibly steep canyons that form the shoulders of the Ruth Glacier. And then it popped into view…Sheldon Chalet! As impressive as the photos and videos may be, the sight of the Chalet brought tingles to our spines…while it’s a formidable structure, the Chalet is dwarfed by the setting, an immense expanse of ice surrounded by mountains, including the Giant, Denali.

We landed and were greeted by Marne and the Chalet’s staff. Walking from the helipad to the Chalet and scanning the mountains in every direction, there was not one among us who did not utter the words, “Oh, my God!” It’s so utterly improbable and beautiful.

Walking into the Chalet is another feast for the senses. We were each met with a glass of Champagne while we took in the beauty of the Chalet and a view that only a select few will ever be able to experience. Our concierge ushered us to the dining table, where Chef Dave (an alum of the Culinary Institute of America and Le Cordon Bleu) had prepared a sumptuous presentation of local and international delicacies. 
​
Marne introduced us to our two backcountry guides, who over the next two days would lead members of our entourage on glacier snowshoe treks, mountain skiing adventures, and sledding on the slopes. And, of course, in this respect, no detail is left to chance. Each guest is asked to fill out a questionnaire before arrival, and in each of our rooms we found a large duffel of Black Diamond gear—everything from sun shirts to waterproof overpants—that met our every need for outdoor equipment. 

While it seems it would be impossible in this extremely remote location, the level of luxury within the Chalet was palpable in everything we saw, tasted, or touched—beautiful and comfortable furnishings, heavenly beds, and gourmet foods, wines, and cocktails are all part of the experience. Our days at Sheldon Chalet were filled with activity, but also with ample time to relax in ultimate comfort, surrounded by nature’s most inspiring landscape. For a more detailed description, check out https://sheldonchalet.com/. 

Each season here brings its own wonders. During our June visit, we enjoyed nearly 22 hours of daylight. In midwinter, darkness prevails, along with the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights in a setting unmarked by artificial light. When outdoors, regardless of the season, the quiet peacefulness of the place is always present, punctuated occasionally by the muffled roar of a distant avalanche.

Here, unlike any other place you will ever visit, you find yourself in the shadows of giants.
--
The details: Sheldon Chalet is available only on an exclusive buyout basis, and is accessible only by helicopters operating under a contractual arrangement with the owners. The Chalet can accommodate a party of up to 10, with a required minimum stay of three nights. The cost—available upon inquiry—includes the flights to and from Anchorage and/or Talkeetna, accommodations, food and beverages, use of the provided specialty apparel and gear, and expert guides with experience in a range of mountain/backcountry activities. There is no phone service, cellular coverage, or internet coverage at the Chalet, though the staff has satellite-based communication capabilities for the purpose of coordinating flights and obtaining emergency assistance should that ever prove necessary. We urge planning for your visit to Sheldon Chalet as far in advance as possible, as availability is extremely limited.

For more information on availability and booking, contact us at [email protected] or by phoning 630.420.3538. ​

Over the years we’ve traveled by a variety of conveyances and stayed in everything from tents to the world’s most luxurious hotels and resorts. We tend to prefer the latter…and our clients generally would agree. But, for Elán, the credo “Travel Beyond” applies to anything and everything beyond one’s day-to-day life. These days we spend a good deal of our time at Borah Borah, our place in Wisconsin, where we trade the conveniences of the City for the allure of wildflowers and fresh air. 

 Our modest rural escape is actually in a pretty special place known as the Driftless Area. This geological island was missed by the recent ice ages that scraped much of the Midwest flat, and remains an area of tall bluffs and deeply carved valleys. Because of this, species that have long been extinct elsewhere have served…in an area also referred by scientists as the Paleozoic Plateau. You should think about visiting us sometime. Seriously.

Over the next few months we will be traveling extensively. We’re presently winging our way to Alaska, where we’ll be visiting some of the most exclusive and remote destinations in North America, including Talkeetna Lodge, Winterlake Lodge, and Sheldon Chalet. After that we’ll be voyaging to the Arctic Circle via England, Norway and Denmark, aboard the stunning Explora I. Then, it will be on to Positano, Italy to spend time exploring the Amalfi Coast.

But, before that, we owed it to ourselves to see a bit of what was in our own backyard. So, we loaded up the Yukon (also known as “The Big Bus”), and set off to explore a bit of Wisconsin.

The first leg of our local trek took us to Villa Bellezza in Pepin, Wisconsin, a remarkable property aimed at replicating an Italian winery. Stopping for lunch, we explored the grounds, then were greeted by Chef Antonio Cecconi, who now heads up the Villa’s culinary program. It’s really a surprising place, set not in Tuscany, but in Wisconsin, near the Mighty Mississippi. Chef Antonio, a native of Sardinia, came to the United States as a young man and has had a storied career in exclusive restaurants and in corporate America. If you’ve ever picked up the Betty Crocker Italian Cookbook, you may recognize him as the author. 

Chef Antonio fed us well…very well…and gave us a tour of the impressive grounds. But, we had miles to cover. The Big Bus then took us to Stockholm, a tiny town (population 78) that has a surprising number of great shops and restaurants. Though we had eaten well at Villa Bellezza, there is always room for pie at the renowned Stockholm Pie and General Store. Mike declared his chocolate cream pie “the best chocolate pie of my life.” Without exaggeration, even if you have to fly, drive or walk thousands of miles, you must visit this place in your lifetime. Elán can charter a jet for you, and we’ll meet you for pie. It will not be a hardship. 

And, yes, Wisconsin does have a “Pie Trail,” which takes the fortunate gastronome to some truly marvelous venues for home-baked pie. 

From Stockholm it was on to our next stop, Wisconsin’s only Relais & Chateaux property, Canoe Bay. Driving to Canoe Bay (www.canoe bay.com) you would not really guess what you’re about to discover there. Miles of farms, rivers, and lakes takes you to a sign on Hogback Road which signals you’ve arrived. 

Exquisite. Really, that’s probably the one word that summarizes it all. Arriving at the reception building, we were greeted by a cascading waterfall fountain, mounds of flowers, and an immaculate, understated lodge that provides the first hint of how special a place this is. Meredith welcomed us at the reception desk and escorted us to our Lakeside Cottage. This and all of the buildings on the property are inspired by the Frank Lloyd Wright school of architectural design. Two were designed by one of his protégés, and the others were designed and built in a complementary style. Again, exquisite. 

This was a celebration of Victoria’s birthday, and we were greeted with a beautiful display of flowers, a lovely charcuterie plate, and a bottle of chilled Larmandier-Bernier Brut Champagne. Meredith gave us a quick tour of our cottage, then excused herself. We relaxed for a bit, anticipating the next (best?) part of our visit, a private dinner in the Inn’s Wine Cellar, prepared and served by Chef Joy. Canoe Bay is known not only for its exquisite setting and architecture, but also for a truly unbelievable culinary program, headed by Joy and a tremendously talented team.

Then it was back to our cottage for an evening of relaxation. Awakening the next morning and peering out the window, the beauty of the sylvan vista promised that a wonderful day awaited.

Breakfast and lunch are brought to each guest cottage by the staff. Served in imaginative pottery containers, their delicious dishes arrive piping hot and presented beautifully. We enjoyed breakfast in our cottage--very civilized—and then we were off for a walking tour. We met John the Gardener, a Danish immigrant who manages the entire landscape maintenance and gardening operation nearly on his own. He showed us the way to the resort’s expansive garden, which supplies most of the produce used by the kitchen. Though it was early springtime, some of the produce was ready for harvest, representing an incredible amount of work on John’s part.

A stroll around the resort takes you through lush woodlands and glistening lakes, all in quiet solitude. Later we spent some time in the Lodge, which serves as the resort’s library, offering a truly great variety of books that span history, art, and nature. It’s a real “Wow!” that is sure to impress the most discerning bibliophile.

Mostly, though, Canoe Bay is a place for relaxation, which is how we spent the balance of our time there. It wasn’t all that difficult in our beautiful cottage overlooking a lake, with countless birds providing the soundtrack. The occasional deer graced us with her presence, as well. 

Beyond that, we simply enjoyed an unhurried day at Canoe Bay, with lunch and dinner in our cottage, interspersed with a drive around the area, a resort haven for midwesterners. A great way to unwind.

After two nights it was time to return to Elán’s Northern Outpost (Borah Borah), but we lingered a bit along the way. We stopped at an outdoor market where we bought a couple of wooden pens that were handmade by an industrious young gent of about 10 years of age, then drove on to La Crosse where we were compelled to visit Meringue Bakery, owned by Jen Barney, a three-time winner of The Food Channel’s baking competitions. Rounding out the pie theme of our trip, we opted for a savory hand pie that was mighty delicious, after which we set our final course for Borah Borah. And, yes, we have to confess that we bought a cookie. 

Rolling into the driveway of Borah Borah, we took a few moments to reflect on what was a really beautiful getaway. Not the same as hiking in Nepal or visiting Versailles, but equally rewarding in providing an opportunity to relax and reflect in a beautiful nearby place. 

Having visited over 100 countries, it’s sometimes easy to forget the treasures nearby—great food and unique resort properties that celebrate local culture are often within easy driving distance. While we encourage our friends and clients to see all the world has to offer, we also are able to help them find unique experiences, like Canoe Bay (and the Pie Trail) nearer to home. Travel Beyond…but don’t forget the nearby treasures.

Have you ever longed to take a trip where you were treated like royalty from the time you left your home, and at every step along the way? At Elán we strive for that feeling for every client on every trip, and nowhere is that experienced in greater abundance than on the private jet trips we arrange for our clients.

This is not an entirely new experience, but it’s emerged as a preferred way to travel for many. Travelers avoid the crowds and hassles of commercial air travel, and find that they are generally whisked from destination to destination. Rather than shuffling through crowded security and immigration lines, private jet travelers receive individualized attention in a more private setting. And, once aboard the level of service—including fine cuisine—is far above that of any airline. 

Since 2020 our clients have placed increasing emphasis on the safety, security, and comforts of private jet travel, so I was intrigued and thrilled when I received an invitation from Abercrombie & Kent (A&K) to experience their private jet on a trip to Iceland.

A&K has been offering private jet itineraries for several years, and is certainly among the leaders in this segment. To join this exclusive trip I flew from Chicago to Boston, and stayed overnight at the beautiful Newbury Hotel before being picked up by private limo to meet my A&K Private Jet in person. While it was to be a short trip, I was able to experience every facet of a genuine A&K Private Jet, from the expedited check-in in the private lounge of a Fixed Base Operator (FBO), to the luxurious in-flight experience, complete with caviar and Dom Perignon Champagne, to the exclusive ground experience upon arrival, to the amazing expedition leaders…all a part of the A&K Private Jet experience. 

The aircraft is a Boeing 757, configured to provide First Class-Plus comfort for each guest. As you’ll see in the photos below, the plane harkens back to the day of elegant air travel, adding luxury in-flight touches well beyond those most have ever experienced. The atmosphere is elegant and comfortable, and the flight attendants are attuned to providing flawless service. It truly is the way to travel.

Arriving in Keflavik, we again were met with an exclusive experience…processed through immigration in a private setting…and were soon on our way to experience anmazing Iceland. The next few days we enjoyed Iceland A&K-style. Each day we partook of the finest local food, accommodations and experiences, including an exclusive retreat at the Blue Lagoon (where we enjoyed private changing rooms, an elegant spa, and privacy from the crowds. We stayed in a remote eco-luxury resort  in the heart of Iceland’s Golden Circle (Torfhus Retreat, where Icelandic culture meets modern standards). At this unique property we were treated to a show of the aurora borealis; snowmobiling on a glacier; and trekking on high-tech overland vehicles.

​Throughout our time in Iceland, we were treated to A&K’s exceptional level of service and attention to detail. Boarding our private jet back to Boston, we once again felt the amazing touches of A&K’s highly professional air and ground crews.

It was a brief taste of the A&K Private Jet experience, but one that clearly demonstrated the considerable appeal of this exclusive mode of travel. For those who choose to be part of it, the Private Jet offers the opportunity to deeply immerse in a large number of destinations in a manner that is supremely comfortable and highly efficient. You are, after all, traveling on your own jet!

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Victoria just returned from another trip, visiting beautiful Hacienda AltaGracia in Costa Rica, then journeying through the Panama Canal on the exclusive Ritz Carlton Private Yacht, Evrima. These two experiences were the perfect complement to one another, with AltaGracia rated one of the world’s top 50 luxury resorts and Evrima representing a level of seagoing luxury formerly unattainable without personal access to one’s own yacht.

Evrima will be featuring seagoing journeys to destinations around the world. A visit to Costa Rica…a relatively short flight from Chicago…was the perfect prelude.  Arriving at the international airport in San José Victoria was whisked to remote AltaGracia by private aircraft. The flight was short in duration, but took her into Costa Rica’s coffee plantation region, an area that is otherwise difficult to reach (at least in any reasonable amount of time).

Auberge has taken a distinctly different path to luxury than many of its competitors, compiling a collection of unique properties that are distinctive from one another, but reflective of an ethos of high quality and attention to detail for the luxury traveler. And, so it is with AltaGracia

AltaGracia is located near to one of the world’s “Blue Zones,” areas noted for longevity and health among their residents. The lessons of wellness gleaned from being in this location are reflected in the cuisine, health treatments, and serenity experienced by guests. Victoria engaged in a variety of these activities during her stay. The sumptuously appointed guest rooms impart serenity. The cuisine centers on local ingredients (mostly grown or harvested within ten miles of AltaGracia). And the spa, The Well, offers truly unique health-oriented experiences that focus on the resort’s unique location (https://aubergeresorts.com/altagracia/). 

While at AltaGracia, Victoria took part in a coffee tasting experience that went into extraordinary detail on differing presentations, took in a river mud bath spa experience, as well as an equestrian demonstration.
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Here are a few photos from Victoria’s AltaGracia experience:

Leaving AltaGracia, Victoria again took a turboprop aircraft back to San Jose, where she boarded Evrima, the first of the Ritz-Carlton Yachts. Launched only a few months ago, Evrima offers guests the luxuries that we have come to associate with Ritz-Carlton properties with the casual freedom of life aboard a private yacht.

Victoria has experienced a wide range of ocean-going voyages, and her time aboard Evrima confirmed the Ritz-Carlton promise that this would be a distinctly different experience than an ordinary cruise. 

This was a short cruise that combined business (the Marriott Luxury Brands board meeting) with a chance for Victoria to familiarize herself with an entirely new way of traveling at sea. Ultimately, Evrima took its guests through the Panama Canal, in itself a unique destination.

Evrima (and her two sister yachts that are now under construction) offers an intimate and elegant alternative to the huge ships that have come to define the cruise industry. These yachts each offer 149 suites, each with a private balcony, and the maximum guest capacity is capped at 298. Suites vary in size, and among them are Loft Suites, which are two-level accommodations. The suites are evocative of a luxury resort, offering spacious accommodations, fantastic bathrooms, and all the comforts of a fine hotel.

Currently offering voyages in the Caribbean and Mediterranean, as well as crossing voyages, Evrima affords each guest a personal concierge and a staff:guest ratio that ensures detailed attention to your every need. Suites are spacious and appointed in the manner one would normally expect from a luxury hotel or resort. The cuisine aboard is more akin to an exclusive restaurant. And, the staff is, of course, trained in the Ritz-Carlton tradition. Here are a few examples of life aboard Evrima: