We received a number of inquiries about the TCS Private Jet after yesterday’s post, so we thought you might enjoy this….
First Class in Every Respect… Are you considering taking an epic journey to celebrate something special…an anniversary, a milestone birthday, or retirement? Or maybe you just have the urge to do it all. There’s no better way than to tour the world by private jet. We just returned from a whirlwind trip to California. We visited two impressive hotels. First, we returned to the Four Seasons at Beverly Hills, a classic that has always captured our hearts. It’s Star Class in every respect…understated luxury that has you wondering if you’ll encounter Clark Gable or Greta Garbo as you turn a corner. Indeed, it remains a favored stomping ground of Hollywood’s glitterati. Most importantly, this hotel is classic Four Seasons, exuding comfortable luxury, anticipating your every need, and responding in the unpretentious manner that has long characterized the name. When we arrived at our beautifully appointed suite there was even a photo of our much-adored pup, Sophie, the Official Dog of Elán, along with a note that she had apparently written. These and other touches immediately let us know that we were home, in the Four Seasons “bubble,” where life is near perfect. If your travels take you to the Los Angeles area there is never any better choice than this. We’ll make sure they know you’re coming. The main impetus behind our visit to the LA area was to visit the stunning TCS Private Jet. TCS packages their own jet journeys, including both around the world itineraries, as well as those focusing on particular regions. In addition to their own journeys, TCS provides the aircraft for the Four Seasons Private. Jet, which is configured differently and whose packages are distinguishable from TCS’s in some important respects. Having now experienced the TCS jet, the Four Seasons Jet, and the Abercrombie and Kent jet, we have a firm handle on which one to recommend for your special celebration. These itineraries nearly always sell out, so it’s always a good idea to plan well in advance. Returning to terra firma, we concluded our visit to California with a stay at the Regent Santa Monica. This imposing hotel, whose October 2024 opening marked the brand’s return to the United States, is located in another iconic California setting, overlooking the vast expanse of Santa Monica Beach, including the boardwalk and the original Muscle Beach. From our gorgeous suite, fresh from the hotel’s recent opening, we ventured out throughout the town on foot (it was a relief to escape the Midwest’s subzero temperatures). We strolled through the Farmer’s Market, explored myriad eccentric shops, and just drank it all in…. On one of our evenings there we dined at a seafood restaurant recommended by the Regent’s concierge Kim that knocked it out of the park, from the first slurp of clam chowder to the final bite of key lime pie. Next time you’re heading there, ask us and we will let you in on the secret. Make sure to request the house car, an immaculate Bentley Flying Spur, to whisk you to and from dinner. California remains the ultimate expression of America’s cultural experiment, combining favorable weather, oceanfront ease, artistry, and a bit of eccentricity to create the perfect getaway…especially when the weather back home is challenging. For us, this was the perfect opportunity to refresh our acquaintance with some of our most valued partners in creating your perfect personal journey. Elán’s Holiday 2025 Gift GuideOur team of experienced travel advisors is standing by to match you with exactly the right itinerary to help you achieve your travel dreams, whether aboard a private yacht, staying in a luxurious villa, or jetting around the world. Here we present a select number of exciting options from our worldwide Elán Portfolio. Whether for yourself, your spouse, or your extended family, the gift of travel is a gift that truly lasts a lifetime, creating cherished memories. Our year has been exceptionally busy—we kicked things off with an extended trip to India, followed by a return to Italy. We attended the Formula One race in Imola, took a trip aboard the La Dolce Vita Orient Express, made a motorcycle trip to the Badlands National Park, visited an astounding Inn located in Newfoundland, jetted off to Marbella, and checked into a magnificent villa in Costa Rica. Lest you think we were just enjoying ourselves (and we can’t deny that we were), all of these trips also involved visits to the properties that we personally vet for our clients As we look forward to 2026, the calendar is already filling up. We currently have visits to South Africa, Italy and France on the books. And you? It’s certainly time to start thinking ahead…perhaps a gift of travel for your spouse or your extended family? And so, we present you with our Holiday Gift Guide…. Sheldon Chalet, Denali National Park, Alaska Sheldon Chalet is one of the most wild, luxurious, and unbelievably beautiful destinations on Earth. Located on a mountaintop jutting out of the Ruth Glacier, deep in Denali National Park, the Chalet is offered only on an exclusive buyout basis. Arriving by helicopter, you’ll be greeted by your dedicated concierge, outfitted with top-line outdoor gear, treated to meals prepared by a chef of unrivaled talent, and guided by two experienced and highly qualified guides. Regardless of the season, you’ll be surrounded by remarkable natural beauty. Pampered in gorgeous accommodations. And given the opportunity to experience one of the world’s most wild and unbelievably gorgeous settings anywhere. -Fogo Island Inn, Newfoundland, Canada Located on the easternmost edge of North America, Fogo Island Inn offers a unique brand of luxury—all of it locally produced—on the rocky shores of the Atlantic Ocean. The accommodations are equipped with handmade furniture, locally produced quilts, and wood stoves. The level of cuisine is unimaginably creative and delicious, mostly locally sourced. Recently named #6 on Condé Nast Traveler’s list of the World’s Best Luxury Hotels, it’s beyond delightful. -Villa Avellana, Costa Rica We recently stayed at this beautiful villa, which encompasses over 30,000 square feet of luxurious indoor and outdoor spaces. Accommodating up to 25 guests (on a buyout basis only), the staff of 26 sees to your every need, whether the sumptuous meals prepared in one of their many kitchens, beach activities for the kids, deep sea fishing for the adults, or simply relaxing around the pool. An all-inclusive experience, Villa Avellana melds the highest level of luxury with every comfort you can imagine. It’s simply gorgeous, the perfect getaway for family or a group of friends. -Micato Safaris (Africa and India) We’ve traveled extensively with Micato, and earlier this year we spent three weeks touring India in the company of their esteemed Tour Director, Puneet Dan. The experience defies description in mere words. We stayed in incredibly beautiful palace hotels, ate sumptuous meals, and toured cultural sites like the Taj Mahal with a level of access that only Micato can provide. At every step Puneet and others from Micato deftly handled every aspect of our time in India. Even being as experienced as we are in traveling the world, it truly set the bar for excellence. Similarly, we have traveled on Safari in Africa with Micato. Throughout our experiences there we have been paired with unrivaled guides and had wildlife encounters that stretch the bounds of what we thought were imaginable. And, at each step, whether staying in a luxurious tented camp or transiting the continent by bush plane, the level of care and professionalism were astounding. Whether you want to follow one of Micato’s set itineraries or create a completely customized experience, there is simply no substitute. -Discover the Dolomites with Elán As we have mentioned, our most recent trip to Italy included a visit to Imola, where we met with local dignitaries and were privileged to enjoy viewing the spectacle from the most coveted venue within the race course, a tower overlooking the track at the start/finish line. We followed this with a visit to Florence and Rome. We’re going back to Italy in September of 2026. We’ll be visiting Lake Como, Florence and Tuscany. Separately, you are invited to do the same on a trip that will retrace the steps of Andrea Grisdale’s acclaimed Italian Routes series as she visited the Dolomites. We’ve created a customized itinerary patterned after this outstanding series. On this trip, once you arrive in Italy, you’ll be met for a VIP escort through customs and immigration, gather gather your bags and travel on to beautiful the Dolomites. We (Victoria and Michael) are excited to also be leading a personally escorted visit to the Dolomites in 2027, which will be strictly limited to a very small number of guests, and focused on exquisite experiences that are undiscovered by most. The accommodations, experiences, and food will be unique and outstanding. Super limited availability, so contact us now: [email protected]. These experiences are just a sample of the many travel opportunities available through Elán…all personally vetted and planned with the utmost attention to detail. But, as we mentioned, after a relatively quiet summer period, travelers are once again clamoring for time at our most coveted properties. If you are looking for a special experience for you or your loved ones, now is the time to start planning.
Imagine a place at the easternmost edge of North America. Wild. Rocky. Fresh air laden with salt spray. And imagine in this place you find an ultramodern inn serving homegrown food and hospitality. Handmade furniture. Wood stoves. Beds furnished with authentic locally crafted quilts.
That place exists, and I was lucky enough to visit with my daughter-in-law Aly, the founder of the Culinary Health Alliance (https://culinaryhealthalliance.com/). The place? Fogo Island Inn. We just returned from a short visit to this unique ultra-sophisticated inn located at the easternmost edge of North America on Fogo Island. This Relais and Chateaux property is truly unique, situated on the edge of the ocean, incorporating modern design, and focusing on true sustainability. The Inn’s creation, and the island’s salvation, came in the form of a wealthy benefactor, a Fogo Island resident who returned after a successful finance career. The story behind Fogo Island Inn was told in a story on 60 minutes (https://youtu.be/2hS9bx7wH7o?si=kpBHapcZKcn-KtBz), and it is a remarkable testament to the vision of Zita Cobb, the Fogo Island native who left, made her fortune in the USA, and returned to start a charity with the mission of rebuilding the economy. It has been a phenomenal success. Fogo Island Inn is one of only two hotels in Canada that has been awarded three Michelin Keys, and just last week was recognized as number six among the World’s Best 50 Hotels and Resorts. The Inn, operated by the nonprofit organization known as Shorefast is miraculous on any number of levels. First, it forms the centerpiece of a reborn economy. Second, it seems almost impossibly remote. And third…perhaps most important…the Inn serves up a mixture of comfort, access to nature, and luxury that one might think impossible to experience in a place such as this. Beyond that, Shorefast is notable in its philosophy of returning most of its revenue to the Fogo Island economy, in the form of salaries and benefits for local residents and in reinvestment in the operational costs of its business enterprise. During our short four-day visit, we toured the island, visited artisans, did some foraging, and ate incredible meals, the ingredients for which are sourced from the sea and the local area. We’ll share a few of our photos below, but nothing can compare to an actual visit. We are proud that the Inn is part of the Elán portfolio, and we invite you to experience it yourself. Meanwhile, if you’d like to learn more, you can navigate to https://fogoislandinn.ca/. Just make sure to book through Elán for the exclusive benefits available to our clients. For more details, please contact me at [email protected]. The Long Journey to Delhi…and the Greeting Upon ArrivalAs we shared our plans to visit India over the past year the question we repeatedly got was “Why?” Objectively, one could recite the statistics: the World’s most populous country; home of some of Earth’s largest cities, neighbor to China, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Myanmar; home to Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Sikhism, Buddhism and others; one of the world’s largest economies; and more. But, the truth is a little more complicated—it just seemed so exotic. And mysterious (at least to one of us). Trips like this are always enjoyable, but they also are all about work. We began our plans for this journey a year ago, working with our trusted partners at Micato Safaris. Micato has been named the world’s best safari company ten times, and they are always our first choice when planning travel to Africa or India for our clients. Their attention to detail and the level of expertise they bring to the table sets the benchmark for our industry, and it is the sort of expertise that allows us to create unrivaled experiences for those who turn to Elán. This is the “why” of why Elán exists…to set the standard by which others in this business measure themselves, and thereby providing unrivaled experiences for our clients and theirs. Ultimately our year of conversations and planning with Micato resulted in a 40-page itinerary, detailing a journey that would take us to some of India’s most renowned sites over a span of three weeks. If our experiences inspire you, we’d suggest that you explore the possibility of a similar custom journey with Micato (https://www.micato.com/india/custom-journeys/). Our journey began when we boarded our flights to Delhi aboard Etihad. Victoria had just returned the prior day from Japan, so this already epic journey was a bit more ambitious for her. We flew via Abu Dhabi and the level of service aboard Etihad was beyond reproach. Still, when we got to Delhi we were truly tired. Any hint of apprehension was immediately erased as we stepped off the plane and were met by a porter who took us immediately to the Immigration desk. After checking our e-visas against our passports we stepped outside, where we were met by Micato India’s Managing Director, Michael, and our Tour Director, Puneet. We knew at that point that we were in good hands…Puneet is actually a legendary figure in Indian tourism. More about that later. We immediately drove to our first “home” in India, Leela Palace. There, as at every hotel we stayed during our trip, we received a warm welcome…anointed with oil and showered with rose petals. And now is the time to make the first important point of our post: At Leela Palace and every place we visited over the next three weeks we experienced an incomparable level of genuine warmth and hospitality. Obviously the staff is very well trained, but you know when someone really cares…and it was evident in every moment at this hotel and elsewhere. We were directed to our elegant, beautifully decorated suite, had a fantastic light dinner that Puneet ordered for us, then retired for the evening. Mindful of the fact that a play by play could amount to drudgery, some of the highlights of our time in Delhi included a rickshaw ride through the old city, a tour of New Delhi, including its impressive government complex and the mansions of billionaires, and a visit to Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Also, extremely noteworthy, we visited a large Sikh temple where we observed the singing of hymns and the preparation of a communal meal that is provided to thousands daily without charge, reflecting the Sikh values of service to others. One could spend a lifetime and never fully explore Delhi…it covers an area of 573 square miles and is home to 35 million inhabitants. But, in the span of two days we were able to grasp a bit of it. We saw a fair amount of the city, but what we found most surprising was the expanse of green space, the number of universities, and the prevalence of wealth in some parts of the city. As a counterpoint, we also experienced incredibly busy streets, many of which were inhabited with small shops and street food vendors. (Note that you can see a larger version of any of the photos we’ve included by clicking on them; some were taken in portrait, so you’ll need to click on those photos to see them in full.) On to Agra and Ranthambore National ParkLeaving Delhi, we ventured on to Agra. The drive from Delhi revealed a different side of India, as we passed lively villages, farm machinery fabricated from diesel pump engines, and even the occasional camel. The arrival in Agra brought us to the beautiful Oberoi Amarvilas. Upon entering the lobby, we were immediately surrounded by the incredible luxury that distinguishes the hotel as one of the world’s finest. And the view! The Taj Mahal can be seen from the lobby…and from every room and suite. See the photos below for more. We ventured to the Taj Mahal twice, once the following morning and once in the evening. Truthfully, it’s emotionally overwhelming. The building itself is a monument to love, built by Emperor Shah Jahan, fifth of the great Mughals, in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. But as you approach the Taj Mahal you find yourself awestruck by the magnificence of the building itself. Built of white marble with a soaring dome and towers, it’s impressive from afar. But, as you get closer you see the incredible attention to minute detail in the form of tens of thousands of intricate designs of inlaid semiprecious stones. We spent some time there and returned later in the day. As the sun hits the monument from a different direction, the stone takes on a soft, almost rosey appearance. We had two truly memorable dinners at the Oberoi Amarvilas. The first was on our private patio overlooking the Taj Mahal. On the second evening we were treated to a stunning candlelit dinner set in the beautiful grounds of the hotel, while we were treated to dance and music performed by local artists. This is truly an amazing hotel, beautiful in every respect and situated in a location unique in the world. The morning after our second dinner, I have to admit to being a bit overwhelmed as we prepared to leave. Looking out from our balcony for our last glimpse was one of those times when we both realized that we had experienced something magical, an experience we had waited for for a lifetime…and that it might never again be repeated. It brings a lump to you throat…a mixture of awe, gratitude, and even a bit of mourning as you leave it behind. But, as we left the Oberoi Amarvilas we knew we were heading to another great adventure, a visit to Ranthambore National Park. Our accommodations for the next two nights were in the tented encampment of the Oberoi Vanyavilas. Again…as happened repeatedly…we were showered with rose petals and given a blessing as we arrived. Our tent was, in truth, more like a luxurious personal lodge, beautifully appointed. Our meals at the main lodge were, as one would expect, incredible. But the highlights were our jeep trips into Ranthambore. We ventured into the park three times. The first, one the evening of our arrival, introduced us to deer, antelopes, an assortment of native birds, and a few alligators. The greatest treasures were on the second day. While there’s never a guarantee, we were fortunate enough to encounter bengal tigers, a leopard, and sloth bears…along with an assortment of other creatures, great and small. We have to acknowledge the expertise of our guide, but also our good fortune. Beautiful Jaipur
Udaipur and the Lake PalaceThe considerable distance to our next destination, Udaipur, required us to take a brief and comfortable flight. Since returning we’ve mentioned to everyone we’ve talked to about our trip our experience with the kindness and generosity of the Indian people. This flight revealed it in a simple and touching encounter with an 11 year old boy who was seated next to us on the flight, traveling to Udaipur as an unaccompanied minor. During the flight he ordered a Coke and we offered to pay. He politely refused and made it clear that he actually wanted three Cokes! Once the flight attendant brought them and he paid, he presented each of us with one of the Coca-Colas he had ordered, proclaiming “It is my duty,” suggesting he was obliged by faith and tradition to show kindness to visitors. We thanked him and as we left the plane, he bowed and touched Victoria’s foot with his hand as a show of respect. This was an experience that was on the one hand minor, but on the other hand revealed what we saw of the Indian spirit—kindness, generosity, and respect. It was truly humbling. Upon arrival at the airport, our driver Gulab was waiting for us—again with his immaculate (and perfectly stocked) white van. We made our way to our next hotel, the Lake Palace, a gleaming oasis in the middle of Lake Pichola, accessible only by boat. We had breakfast with Puneet, then set out on our exploration of this truly beautiful city. Much of the India we saw was chaotic, but Udaipur, particularly the area near the lake and the City Palace, was immaculate. We toured the nearby temples of Elingli and Nagda, which date back to the fourth century. We continued on to Devigarh Fort Palace, a unique hotel set a distance from the city, where we partook of a demonstration of local cooking. This area is particularly beautiful, set among rolling hills punctuated by temples and some very nice homes that serve as retreats for for the fortunate. We have to confess that this was one of our favorite cities…and the fact that we got to spend much of it in a truly lovely palace in the middle of a beautiful lake made it more than exceptional. Here, as in every place we stayed, the staff went above and beyond to make every aspect of our stay comfortable. We were truly treated like royalty. It is, it seems, the Indian way. Jodhpur and the Celebration of HoliWe had a considerable drive to get to our next destination, Jodhpur. In some parts of the world the roadside sights can be fairly mundane, but that is never the case in India. Along the way, we passed alongside camels, elephants, and endless array of shops and cafes, and more than a few gaudily decorated trucks, tractors and scooters driving on the wrong side of the road…it’s all just part of the ever-surprising panorama of Indian life. As a nod to Mike’s penchant for motorcycling, Puneet arranged for a stop at a shrine commemorating a motorcycle that was imbued with mystical powers following a crash that took the life of its owner many years ago. It’s a pilgrimage for Indian motorcyclists, but largely unknown to the rest of the world, and was just one example of how Puneet crafted our itinerary and experiences every day (on another occasion Puneet arranged for a Royal Enfield motorcycle to be brought to our hotel, so Mike could ride it around the grounds…to the rather great alarm of the security staff!!). Our arrival at the Umaid Bhawan Palace was truly an epic experience in a thoroughly epic trip. Escorted into the grounds by horse-mounted guards, we felt once again as though we were royalty ourselves. Pulling up to the Palace, once the largest private home in the world, we found ourselves awestruck by the size and magnificence of one of the world’s great hotels, designed and built in the art deco style. We didn’t have much time to adjust, however, as we were informed that we had been invited to a cocktail reception with the Royal Family. It was truly a wonderful introduction, and we were greeted by the King and Queen as though we were lifelong friends. After a bit of time with them and other invitees, we returned to our suite to prepare for the midnight procession to a bonfire marking the beginning of Holi. The ceremony was marked by blessings, dancing, and music, with the bonfire being lit by the Maharaja as the ceremony drew to its climactic conclusion. The next morning was truly the dawn of Holi, as well as Mike’s birthday (!). We had been provided with white suits and after breakfast proceeded to a separate location on the grounds to once again celebrate with the Royals. The tossing of colored powders, fireworks, raucous music, and a general atmosphere of revelry marked this party of all parties. It was festive beyond belief, and accompanied by a wonderful array of Indian cuisine. But there was more. That evening we were asked to meet in the impressive rotunda to prepare for a meal that was well beyond anything we have ever experienced. We were both treated to a bit of royal treatment—a turban and sword for Mike, jewelry for Victoria. Then we were led to the beautiful gardens where musicians awaited while we dined on one of the more impressive meals we’ve ever been served. It was a little hard to keep track, but there were more than 20 dishes, as well as a birthday cake, the cutting of which was accompanied by fireworks! VaranasiFrom Jodhpur we flew to Varanasi. Again, the Micato touch was evident as every aspect of our transfer, air tickets, and handling of luggage were handled seamlessly by Puneet and his associates. It’s kind of the Micato way—the potentially challenging bits are all taken care of, and their guests are allowed to enjoy the journey unimpeded by concerns with logistics. Varanasi…where to start? We had experienced plenty of the chaos of India up to this point—frenetic traffic with scooters competing with camels, elephants and tractors was, it seemed, the norm. But Varanasi turns it up a notch or two. It is the ultimate spiritual destination for those of the Hindu faith, situated on the banks of the Ganges River. It is here that millions come on pilgrimages, to bathe in the waters of the holiest of rivers, to commune with holy men, and in some instances to say farewell to those who have completed their mortal journey. Carnival rides compete for attention with funeral pyres. Commerce thrives alongside holy men of deep devotion. The throngs surging to the River are a force of nature. It is the sum of all humanity. In writing this, it is the one place that induced writer’s block. The sensations are overwhelming. Varanasi will astound you. And, regardless of your faith (or lack thereof), it is the one place on Earth that you should visit in this lifetime. We are not of the Hindu faith, but you cannot help but be overwhelmed by the spectacle of the morning ceremony of priests welcoming the morning sun, or by the utter devotion to family and natural forces manifested by traditions that stretch back over millennia. We cruised the river (twice) and the sights were impressive—men and women bathing in the holy waters of the Ganges, religious ceremonies on the banks, and tented encampments surrounded by camels that are not movie sets…they are simply the reality of Varanasi. After our first full day outing in the City, Puneet urged us to freshen up and meet him in the lobby. From there he led us outside for one of the most touching occasions in a journey that was filled with touching occasions, a Hindu ceremony performed by two priests, celebrating our 48 years of marriage. We also had a truly interest experience in Varanasi. After being led through a labyrinth of streets and Alleys by Puneet we arrived at a private residence where we were treated to a private performance by one of India’s most famous musicians and his students. I guarantee that this is not something you will find in any of the guide books. Only Micato. And notably, upon learning of the fact that one of the young men who had performed for us was facing the difficulty of having recently lost both of his parents, Puneet spontaneously declared that Micato would sponsor his studies going forward. The Micato Way. The Indian Way. The way we should all live. That’s it, all I can write about Varanasi. Our photos may give a bit of a glimpse into this most amazing of cities, but you will never understand until you visit. And you must visit. MumbaiMumbai is the perfect city to end a journey of this sort. It’s a huge city, home to fishermen and billionaires. A center of education and culture. Situated on a magnificent seashore. Our final hotel was the Oberoi Mumbai, a thoroughly modern luxury hotel that provided the perfect venue to reflect on a nearly three week trip through India. We visited a couple of truly extraordinary restaurants, did an early morning tour of the markets, visited some of city’s more unique sights, and even a museum that houses truly extraordinary cultural and artistic treasures. We shared tea with earnest workers preparing newspapers for distribution, walked among fishmongers whose traditions date back centuries, and visited a famed outdoor laundry. The flower market was a riot of color, with hundreds of thousands of beautiful blooms on display. The spice market offered insight into the culinary traditions of everyday Indian households. We drove by the world’s most costly private home (built at a cost of $2 billion), and walked with those of the most modest means. While a little more sedate in some respects than other places we had visited, Mumbai still offered the now-expected unexpected at nearly every turn. Final ThoughtsWe lost track of how many times we used the word “amazing” on this journey. The array of beautiful sights, historical palaces, and new cultural experiences was incredible, almost to the point of being overwhelming. What we’ve presented here is merely a glimpse of what we experienced. We covered thousands of miles on the road and in the air. One small indication of the breadth of sights and experiences that we encountered is the fact that we amassed over 2,000 photographs. As we boarded the first of our two flights to return home, we have to confess a bit of sadness as we left behind one of the most wondrous places on Earth. Every day in India had been filled with something new…and almost always unexpected. The traditions of kindness and generosity were a constant, set amidst the contrast of grand palaces, magnificent temples, and many people of humble means. In India, one’s senses are constantly switched to “full on,” lest you miss something of significance. Truthfully, without the steady guidance of our Travel Director and now dear friend Puneet, we would have missed most of it. Not only did Puneet guide us through every one of the sights we had worked into our itinerary, he (and no doubt the crew of Micato) arranged for several magical moments that were wholly unexpected…a motorcycle ride, a visit to one of the country’s most renowned musicians, and introductions to royalty (in their homes) were experiences that we never expected or could have anticipated. Tigers…royal processions…touching exchanges with everyday people. India is magical, mystical, and above all else, the ultimate expression of the human experience. Our description is but a feeble attempt to capture some of the highlights. You can only comprehend the splendor once you’ve lived it. However you do it, get there in your lifetime. And if you want to do it in a way that deepens and enriches your experience make sure you plan your visit with our dear friends at Micato. And to End, a Few Random Memories…. |
| In this post you’re getting two trip reports: We have just done two back-to-back trips and wanted to share some highlights with you below. The first trip was an extended journey aboard Explora II, one of the newest passenger vessels on the seas. After that we got home, unpacked and repacked, then headed off to Italy on a trip that required us to take Trains, Planes and Automobiles. Please enjoy…. |
Part One: We traveled the Western Mediterranean aboard the beautiful Explora II
ESeldom do we have the opportunity to spend this much time on a single journey, but it was time for us to experience Explora Journey’s oceangoing resort, the Explora II, and their 16-day exploration of the Mediterranean provided the perfect vehicle (literally and figuratively) for us to check off some important items. We not only experienced the full range of amenities and activities aboard the ship, but we were able to schedule meetings and site inspections with providers from Rome to Morocco to Barcelona.
First, a bit about the ship: Explora II is the second ship launched by Explora Journeys. Commissioned by the Aponte family, whose maritime legacy spans centuries, this ship is the realization of their dream of creating a luxury resort at sea. As a recognized expert in the realm of luxury resorts, Victoria's consulted with the company through the concept and design stages.
The ship is exquisite, cutting a sleek profile evocative of the great super yachts. Once aboard, the design, finishes, and amenities reflect tremendous attention to detail, from the soaring lobby bar to the tastefully appointed restaurants that include a steakhouse, a seafood restaurant, an Asian restaurant, and a fine French dining experience, as well as a venue featuring a multiple course prix fixe menu that truly rivals the most sophisticated dining establishments. This brief overview gives a glimpse into the unparalleled beauty of of the ship: https://youtu.be/qx_9Nt6kYpI?si=VLh7A7FLMsAehC5N.
Our suite, a Cove Residence, was spacious with a separate bedroom, spacious closet, and a combination living/dining room, as well as a huge balcony featuring a whirlpool tub. Outfitted with fully updated electronics, comfortable seating areas, a coffee bar/minibar, and a makeup table, it in every way lived up to the goal of recreating the experience of a luxury hotel.
Best part? It’s hard to say, but our personal Suite Ambassador, Karthik, made the entire journey a seamless experience. He oversaw daily cleaning and refreshment of consumables, made our restaurant and excursion reservations, and even coordinated two cocktail gatherings in our suite.
We were truly impressed by the variety and quality of restaurants on board Explora II. One of the restaurants, Anthology, is a paid (extra cost) prix fixe dining experience of multiple courses with an optional wine pairing. The food was exquisite and worth the nominal additional cost.
Sakura is a pan-asian restaurant, Marble & Co. is a steakhouse, Fil Rouge serves French inspired cuisine, and Club Med focuses on shared plates. Emporium Marketplace is open for all meals and features a number of made-to-order cooking stations with a range of offerings ranging from cheeseburgers to wood-fired pizza to excellent seafood. Passengers never touch the food until it’s handed to them, so there’s none of the concern one might have with a more typical buffet seen among competitors. The standards of quality and food safety here and in all the restaurant are beyond reproach.
This particular journey saw us visiting Sorrento, Palermo, Tunis, Tangier, two of the Balearic Islands, Barcelona, Gibraltar and Malaga, plus more. Rather than engaging in a droning play-by-play, we’re attaching a selection of photos in the slideshow below. We did, however, want to share some of our favorites.
First among them was a day aboard a rented yacht, during which we visited beautiful Ischia, becoming a favorite of Italian vacationers. We enjoyed a fantastic meal on Ischia, then hopped back to the mainland in time to do a bit of exploring and reboard. Menorca, one of the Balearic Islands, was a surprise. Beautiful small towns and a beautiful rolling countryside that reminded us of Oxfordshire, with thousands of miles of stone fences. As is always the case on our travels this was a working trip, and we made sure that we visited two properties that we know will be of interest to our clients. Assisting us with this portion of our trip was Balearic Touring, a destination management company specializing in Spain’s Balearic Islands. After a tour of Ciutadella, which is a small city oozing in history, we sent on to tour Vestige Son Vell, then went on to tour a dairy farm and cheese factory that has risen to international prominence for the quality of its products.
Vestige Son Vell is one of Europe’s truly unique hotels, situated largely in an 18th century manor (with additional suite options in adjacent buildings), with an emphasis on casual elegance. The grounds feature extensive gardens, pools, and an organic fruit and vegetable garden that supplies the kitchen. On every trip we take we note those places that we “absolutely have to come back to,” and Son Vell is among them (https://vestigecollection.com/son-vell/).
First, a bit about the ship: Explora II is the second ship launched by Explora Journeys. Commissioned by the Aponte family, whose maritime legacy spans centuries, this ship is the realization of their dream of creating a luxury resort at sea. As a recognized expert in the realm of luxury resorts, Victoria's consulted with the company through the concept and design stages.
The ship is exquisite, cutting a sleek profile evocative of the great super yachts. Once aboard, the design, finishes, and amenities reflect tremendous attention to detail, from the soaring lobby bar to the tastefully appointed restaurants that include a steakhouse, a seafood restaurant, an Asian restaurant, and a fine French dining experience, as well as a venue featuring a multiple course prix fixe menu that truly rivals the most sophisticated dining establishments. This brief overview gives a glimpse into the unparalleled beauty of of the ship: https://youtu.be/qx_9Nt6kYpI?si=VLh7A7FLMsAehC5N.
Our suite, a Cove Residence, was spacious with a separate bedroom, spacious closet, and a combination living/dining room, as well as a huge balcony featuring a whirlpool tub. Outfitted with fully updated electronics, comfortable seating areas, a coffee bar/minibar, and a makeup table, it in every way lived up to the goal of recreating the experience of a luxury hotel.
Best part? It’s hard to say, but our personal Suite Ambassador, Karthik, made the entire journey a seamless experience. He oversaw daily cleaning and refreshment of consumables, made our restaurant and excursion reservations, and even coordinated two cocktail gatherings in our suite.
We were truly impressed by the variety and quality of restaurants on board Explora II. One of the restaurants, Anthology, is a paid (extra cost) prix fixe dining experience of multiple courses with an optional wine pairing. The food was exquisite and worth the nominal additional cost.
Sakura is a pan-asian restaurant, Marble & Co. is a steakhouse, Fil Rouge serves French inspired cuisine, and Club Med focuses on shared plates. Emporium Marketplace is open for all meals and features a number of made-to-order cooking stations with a range of offerings ranging from cheeseburgers to wood-fired pizza to excellent seafood. Passengers never touch the food until it’s handed to them, so there’s none of the concern one might have with a more typical buffet seen among competitors. The standards of quality and food safety here and in all the restaurant are beyond reproach.
This particular journey saw us visiting Sorrento, Palermo, Tunis, Tangier, two of the Balearic Islands, Barcelona, Gibraltar and Malaga, plus more. Rather than engaging in a droning play-by-play, we’re attaching a selection of photos in the slideshow below. We did, however, want to share some of our favorites.
First among them was a day aboard a rented yacht, during which we visited beautiful Ischia, becoming a favorite of Italian vacationers. We enjoyed a fantastic meal on Ischia, then hopped back to the mainland in time to do a bit of exploring and reboard. Menorca, one of the Balearic Islands, was a surprise. Beautiful small towns and a beautiful rolling countryside that reminded us of Oxfordshire, with thousands of miles of stone fences. As is always the case on our travels this was a working trip, and we made sure that we visited two properties that we know will be of interest to our clients. Assisting us with this portion of our trip was Balearic Touring, a destination management company specializing in Spain’s Balearic Islands. After a tour of Ciutadella, which is a small city oozing in history, we sent on to tour Vestige Son Vell, then went on to tour a dairy farm and cheese factory that has risen to international prominence for the quality of its products.
Vestige Son Vell is one of Europe’s truly unique hotels, situated largely in an 18th century manor (with additional suite options in adjacent buildings), with an emphasis on casual elegance. The grounds feature extensive gardens, pools, and an organic fruit and vegetable garden that supplies the kitchen. On every trip we take we note those places that we “absolutely have to come back to,” and Son Vell is among them (https://vestigecollection.com/son-vell/).
Another of our “must do” experiences was a visit to the Alhambra, the sprawling Moorish palace of Granada that spans a history of nearly 800 years. This was on Mike’s “must do” list once saw that we would be visiting the port of Malaga. Mike’s Grandpa Bob had given him Washington Irving’s Tales of the Alhambra when he was a wee lad, and his interest was piqued during a brief tour of the palace in high school days. Though 50 years had passed, the Alhambra beckoned and we answered the call. It was a magnificent day.
Construction of the Alhambra began in 1238 under the direction of Muhammad I Ibin Al-Ahmad and underwent a series of enhancements and additions that have made it one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Our transport to and from the port of Malaga and our day of touring was arranged by our friends at Made for Spain. After a comfortable ride to Granada we were met by our guide (who spent much of his childhood within the confines of the Alhambra) and began a tour of the exquisite gardens. The architectural and engineering genius of the builders is hard to comprehend. Suffice it to say that the gardens, infused with pools and fountains, are truly among the most beautiful we’ve seen anywhere.
The key to fully experiencing a site as large and complex as the Alhambra is to do so with a professional guide. We, of course, turned to our trusted partners at Made for Spain to plan the day. They provided beautiful transportation, a memorable lunch, and our highly qualified guide (who had actually spent most of his childhood on the Alhambra’s grounds). Under his guidance we skirted the crowds and enjoyed unique insights into one of the world’s best preserved Islamic Palaces, which later saw the artful melding of Spanish Renaissance architecture to create a place of unrivaled beauty. Hugely important moments in world history took place within the walls, including the grant given to Christopher Columbus by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand sponsoring his exploration of the New World.
One could spend days or weeks exploring the Alhambra, but our schedule demanded that we leave for a visit to a phenomenal restaurant overlooking the City of Granada. Paella was ordered. Sangria flowed. And then it was time to go back to our beautiful resort at sea, the Explora II.
Construction of the Alhambra began in 1238 under the direction of Muhammad I Ibin Al-Ahmad and underwent a series of enhancements and additions that have made it one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Our transport to and from the port of Malaga and our day of touring was arranged by our friends at Made for Spain. After a comfortable ride to Granada we were met by our guide (who spent much of his childhood within the confines of the Alhambra) and began a tour of the exquisite gardens. The architectural and engineering genius of the builders is hard to comprehend. Suffice it to say that the gardens, infused with pools and fountains, are truly among the most beautiful we’ve seen anywhere.
The key to fully experiencing a site as large and complex as the Alhambra is to do so with a professional guide. We, of course, turned to our trusted partners at Made for Spain to plan the day. They provided beautiful transportation, a memorable lunch, and our highly qualified guide (who had actually spent most of his childhood on the Alhambra’s grounds). Under his guidance we skirted the crowds and enjoyed unique insights into one of the world’s best preserved Islamic Palaces, which later saw the artful melding of Spanish Renaissance architecture to create a place of unrivaled beauty. Hugely important moments in world history took place within the walls, including the grant given to Christopher Columbus by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand sponsoring his exploration of the New World.
One could spend days or weeks exploring the Alhambra, but our schedule demanded that we leave for a visit to a phenomenal restaurant overlooking the City of Granada. Paella was ordered. Sangria flowed. And then it was time to go back to our beautiful resort at sea, the Explora II.
During the course of our 16 days at sea, we had other similarly astounding experiences. And we came to fully grasp the allure of a seagoing journey with Explora Journeys. The ships exude a sense of place, though that place is moving. Guests enjoy a level of accommodation and cuisine that rivals the finest resorts. Comfortable bars, lounges, and pools provide ample opportunities for pure relaxation. And along the way those who travel with Explora have the chance to visit a constantly unfolding portfolio of exceptional experiences ashore that span the world.
It’s also worth mentioning that in the world of luxury travel an Explora Journey represents a very fair value. Sumptuous suites with every amenity are available (and they are stunning), but for those who are less focused on the size of their suite, smaller, though still quite luxurious, accommodations are available.
Our Cove Residence was wonderful. A two-room suite, it featured a separate bedroom, a living/dining room, bathroom, walk-in closet, and dressing table, as well as ample storage space. This brings us to what we see as a real point of importance—the sheer convenience of an ocean journey. When we arrived at our port of embarkation (Civitavecchia) we were met by a porter and our butler, who took us to our suite. Once there we unpacked—the only time in our two-week plus journey—and settled into our comfortable accommodations. Every need was attended to by our butler, from having clothes laundered to serving us meals at our dining table to making dinner reservations for us. The suite was maintained to a level that can only be described as immaculate. The fact that every day or two we found ourselves in some of the Mediterranean’s most astounding destinations was icing on the cake.
Really, you must experience this type of travel. It makes it difficult to imagine anything else.
We’d be happy to review the options aboard Explora’s ships with you and would also note that booking through Elán or another Virtuoso agency confers exclusive benefits that may not otherwise be available. Now is the time to start planning your Explora journey.
It’s also worth mentioning that in the world of luxury travel an Explora Journey represents a very fair value. Sumptuous suites with every amenity are available (and they are stunning), but for those who are less focused on the size of their suite, smaller, though still quite luxurious, accommodations are available.
Our Cove Residence was wonderful. A two-room suite, it featured a separate bedroom, a living/dining room, bathroom, walk-in closet, and dressing table, as well as ample storage space. This brings us to what we see as a real point of importance—the sheer convenience of an ocean journey. When we arrived at our port of embarkation (Civitavecchia) we were met by a porter and our butler, who took us to our suite. Once there we unpacked—the only time in our two-week plus journey—and settled into our comfortable accommodations. Every need was attended to by our butler, from having clothes laundered to serving us meals at our dining table to making dinner reservations for us. The suite was maintained to a level that can only be described as immaculate. The fact that every day or two we found ourselves in some of the Mediterranean’s most astounding destinations was icing on the cake.
Really, you must experience this type of travel. It makes it difficult to imagine anything else.
We’d be happy to review the options aboard Explora’s ships with you and would also note that booking through Elán or another Virtuoso agency confers exclusive benefits that may not otherwise be available. Now is the time to start planning your Explora journey.
Part Two: A Trip Back to Italy and France
The past few months have been a whirlwind of travel, and we barely had time to unpack and do laundry before it was time to board another flight to Italy. One of the things we’re most proud of is the network of colleagues in the travel industry who have become the best of friends over the span of our decades in business. Twenty five years ago our friend Andrea Grisdale founded a destination management company she named IC Bellagio, specializing in working with travel advisors to provide unrivaled experiences for those traveling to Italy. Andrea was throwing a party to celebrate and we were thrilled to accept her invitation. So it was back to Italy (never a hardship)!
Upon arrival we jumped into our awaiting car and started towards our ultimate destination, Casa Maria Luigia, just outside of Modena. This delightful guesthouse is owned and operated by world famous Chef Massimo Bottura and his wife Lara. The main restaurant on the premises is Francescana, a Michelin three-star restaurant that has twice been named the world’s top restaurant. We had but a few hours to shake off any vestiges of jet lag and prepare for a nine-course dinner at this world renowned establishment. Meals are served in a family style setting, with four tables of six diners. We were seated with a woman from the Philippines who was traveling with her son (whose mission in life is to dine at the world’s finest restaurants) and a couple from New York City who had immigrated to the States from Crimea during the time of conflict there many years ago.
Exquisite does not begin to describe the food. The dishes are introduced by members of the kitchen staff and guests have the opportunity to interact with them and watch the final preparation and plating of each dish. It was a “Wow!” experience…amazing food served and presented in an unpretentious manner, with the emphasis on quality and creativity.
Guest accommodations are equally imaginative. The Casa is decorated with an incredible collection of modern art, all set amidst beautiful gardens. There is a second restaurant on the premises, as well as a facility that manufactures authentic Balsamic and a separate facility that Massimo has designated The Playground, a building filled with games, and with Massimo’s collections.
One night was really not enough time, but the next day was filled with more discoveries as we toured local food producers en route to our destination in Imola, where that evening we joined up with Andrea, the team of IC Bellagio, and industry luminaries from around the world to begin a celebration of a quarter century of excellence. The evening at ___ featured foods from local producers in the Emilia Romagna region, accompanied by music (and dancing!). The following morning we took a wonderful foot tour of Modena, taking in the truly impressive sites of this historic university city, then returned to resume the celebration of IC Bellagio. It was truly a magical event, beginning with an operatic performance and a cinematic recap of IC Bellagio’s 25 years of excellence. After the tenor’s last note we were led through the streets of Imola by a musical ensemble, capping the evening with a beautiful dinner in Imola’s central square.
It was wonderful to connect with so many friends from around the world, but the next day saw us on the road once again…literally, on the road, as we were chauffeured through the Italian countryside to the French Riveria, ultimately arriving in Nice at the Hôtel Du Couvent, a Luxury Collection Hotel located in the heart of the old city (https://www.hotelducouvent.com/). The hotel is a recently opened property within a restored convent that is centuries old and had been long abandoned. The scope of this project is breathtaking, as is everything within the walls of the old convent…beautiful rooms with exquisite amenities, excellent dining, and service that rivals the best anywhere. It’s notable that Nice now has a true luxury property within easy driving distance to the airport.
And the food in Nice…close to Italy, it is distinctly French in style, with a nod to Italian dining. On our first night we opted for the casual atmosphere of Le Bistrot du les Surruriers, the hotel’s casual and intimate venue located just outside the main gate, where guests and locals mingle over perfectly prepared dishes. The next day our butler took us on a brief walking tour of the city center, then set us loose to browse the local market and shops. Another great lunch was followed by a tour of the hotel’s grounds (much of the produce used by the restaurant is grown on site), followed by dinner at Le Restaurant du Couvent.
Early to bed, because the next day we had a flight from Nice to Bordeaux. We approached this flight with some trepidation because we were on EasyJet, which is a no-frills European airline. However, it was an easy flight of around an hour. From the airport our driver took us to a part of France that is unknown to many Americans. The Limousin region, now part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine administrative region, actually seems much like the beautiful Driftless Area of Wisconsin, where our cabin is located. Rolling hills and verdant forests are dotted with innumerable lakes, as well as fields populated with Limousin cattle.
What one doesn’t find in rural Wisconsin are 13th Century Chateaux converted to luxury hotels, exactly what we found when we arrived at Domaine des Etangs, Auberge’s newest European property (https://aubergeresorts.com/domainedesetangs). The property encompasses a 2,500 acre estate with lodging in the “Castle,” adjacent converted barns, and cottages scattered through the property. Our cottage was accessible by car and we were quickly assigned a little electric car, then followed our host to find ourselves in an exquisite little home of our own, complete with a large fireplace, sleeping loft, and a well-equipped kitchen. It was a wonderful little retreat. We enjoyed one meal there, delivered by staff, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner in their highly touted restaurant. On our second day there the staff prepared a beautiful picnic lunch. We packed it in our little electric Renault and found the perfect lakeside site for our picnic, with a view of the Castle.
A highlight was our day in a chauffeured Citroen 2CV limo, complete with Champagne service. Our driver took us on an extended tour of the area, taking in the bucolic scenery of lakes, hills, and limousin cattle. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we stopped for a memorable midday meal at a small restaurant in an old mill that has earned a Michelin star.
In all, we spent three nights at Domain des Etangs. It is supremely relaxing, beautifully appointed, and affords guests that elusive combination of comfort, luxury, relaxation and exceptional dining that the French have mastered. But next time we’ll make it a longer stay and we will definitely build in time to branch out even further in this sublime…and largely undiscovered…region of France.
On our final morning we were met by a driver who picked us up at our cottage and drove us to a local train station. From there we boarded the TGV train to Charles de Gaulle Airport. It was a comfortable and speedy ride, with our train hitting nearly 190 mph on the fastest stretches. Tremendously convenient, too, with the train terminal connecting directly to the airport.
Then, back to the USA.
We’ve provided direct links to some of the properties we visited, but we always encourage travelers to book through Elán or one of the trusted advisors affiliated with Virtuoso. With our worldwide collection of contacts and partners we always strive to deliver a travel experience that far exceeds expectations. Elán…Travel Beyond.
The past few months have been a whirlwind of travel, and we barely had time to unpack and do laundry before it was time to board another flight to Italy. One of the things we’re most proud of is the network of colleagues in the travel industry who have become the best of friends over the span of our decades in business. Twenty five years ago our friend Andrea Grisdale founded a destination management company she named IC Bellagio, specializing in working with travel advisors to provide unrivaled experiences for those traveling to Italy. Andrea was throwing a party to celebrate and we were thrilled to accept her invitation. So it was back to Italy (never a hardship)!
Upon arrival we jumped into our awaiting car and started towards our ultimate destination, Casa Maria Luigia, just outside of Modena. This delightful guesthouse is owned and operated by world famous Chef Massimo Bottura and his wife Lara. The main restaurant on the premises is Francescana, a Michelin three-star restaurant that has twice been named the world’s top restaurant. We had but a few hours to shake off any vestiges of jet lag and prepare for a nine-course dinner at this world renowned establishment. Meals are served in a family style setting, with four tables of six diners. We were seated with a woman from the Philippines who was traveling with her son (whose mission in life is to dine at the world’s finest restaurants) and a couple from New York City who had immigrated to the States from Crimea during the time of conflict there many years ago.
Exquisite does not begin to describe the food. The dishes are introduced by members of the kitchen staff and guests have the opportunity to interact with them and watch the final preparation and plating of each dish. It was a “Wow!” experience…amazing food served and presented in an unpretentious manner, with the emphasis on quality and creativity.
Guest accommodations are equally imaginative. The Casa is decorated with an incredible collection of modern art, all set amidst beautiful gardens. There is a second restaurant on the premises, as well as a facility that manufactures authentic Balsamic and a separate facility that Massimo has designated The Playground, a building filled with games, and with Massimo’s collections.
One night was really not enough time, but the next day was filled with more discoveries as we toured local food producers en route to our destination in Imola, where that evening we joined up with Andrea, the team of IC Bellagio, and industry luminaries from around the world to begin a celebration of a quarter century of excellence. The evening at ___ featured foods from local producers in the Emilia Romagna region, accompanied by music (and dancing!). The following morning we took a wonderful foot tour of Modena, taking in the truly impressive sites of this historic university city, then returned to resume the celebration of IC Bellagio. It was truly a magical event, beginning with an operatic performance and a cinematic recap of IC Bellagio’s 25 years of excellence. After the tenor’s last note we were led through the streets of Imola by a musical ensemble, capping the evening with a beautiful dinner in Imola’s central square.
It was wonderful to connect with so many friends from around the world, but the next day saw us on the road once again…literally, on the road, as we were chauffeured through the Italian countryside to the French Riveria, ultimately arriving in Nice at the Hôtel Du Couvent, a Luxury Collection Hotel located in the heart of the old city (https://www.hotelducouvent.com/). The hotel is a recently opened property within a restored convent that is centuries old and had been long abandoned. The scope of this project is breathtaking, as is everything within the walls of the old convent…beautiful rooms with exquisite amenities, excellent dining, and service that rivals the best anywhere. It’s notable that Nice now has a true luxury property within easy driving distance to the airport.
And the food in Nice…close to Italy, it is distinctly French in style, with a nod to Italian dining. On our first night we opted for the casual atmosphere of Le Bistrot du les Surruriers, the hotel’s casual and intimate venue located just outside the main gate, where guests and locals mingle over perfectly prepared dishes. The next day our butler took us on a brief walking tour of the city center, then set us loose to browse the local market and shops. Another great lunch was followed by a tour of the hotel’s grounds (much of the produce used by the restaurant is grown on site), followed by dinner at Le Restaurant du Couvent.
Early to bed, because the next day we had a flight from Nice to Bordeaux. We approached this flight with some trepidation because we were on EasyJet, which is a no-frills European airline. However, it was an easy flight of around an hour. From the airport our driver took us to a part of France that is unknown to many Americans. The Limousin region, now part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine administrative region, actually seems much like the beautiful Driftless Area of Wisconsin, where our cabin is located. Rolling hills and verdant forests are dotted with innumerable lakes, as well as fields populated with Limousin cattle.
What one doesn’t find in rural Wisconsin are 13th Century Chateaux converted to luxury hotels, exactly what we found when we arrived at Domaine des Etangs, Auberge’s newest European property (https://aubergeresorts.com/domainedesetangs). The property encompasses a 2,500 acre estate with lodging in the “Castle,” adjacent converted barns, and cottages scattered through the property. Our cottage was accessible by car and we were quickly assigned a little electric car, then followed our host to find ourselves in an exquisite little home of our own, complete with a large fireplace, sleeping loft, and a well-equipped kitchen. It was a wonderful little retreat. We enjoyed one meal there, delivered by staff, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner in their highly touted restaurant. On our second day there the staff prepared a beautiful picnic lunch. We packed it in our little electric Renault and found the perfect lakeside site for our picnic, with a view of the Castle.
A highlight was our day in a chauffeured Citroen 2CV limo, complete with Champagne service. Our driver took us on an extended tour of the area, taking in the bucolic scenery of lakes, hills, and limousin cattle. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we stopped for a memorable midday meal at a small restaurant in an old mill that has earned a Michelin star.
In all, we spent three nights at Domain des Etangs. It is supremely relaxing, beautifully appointed, and affords guests that elusive combination of comfort, luxury, relaxation and exceptional dining that the French have mastered. But next time we’ll make it a longer stay and we will definitely build in time to branch out even further in this sublime…and largely undiscovered…region of France.
On our final morning we were met by a driver who picked us up at our cottage and drove us to a local train station. From there we boarded the TGV train to Charles de Gaulle Airport. It was a comfortable and speedy ride, with our train hitting nearly 190 mph on the fastest stretches. Tremendously convenient, too, with the train terminal connecting directly to the airport.
Then, back to the USA.
We’ve provided direct links to some of the properties we visited, but we always encourage travelers to book through Elán or one of the trusted advisors affiliated with Virtuoso. With our worldwide collection of contacts and partners we always strive to deliver a travel experience that far exceeds expectations. Elán…Travel Beyond.
The History…
We recently visited our long-ago home, England. It was a fairly short visit, only six days, but any time we return it feels like going home. We flew from Chicago’s O’Hare IAP to Heathrow, arriving in the wee hours of the morning, and immediately caught a ride to Le Manoir au Quat’Saisons, the legendary hotel established by Chef Raymond Blanc nearly 40 years ago in rural Oxfordshire (https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons/).
As we were flying to Heathrow, we contrasted this trip with our first trip together to London, back around 1980. Mike was in law school and Victoria was working as a flight attendant for American Airlines. Mike had arranged his class schedule to have a three-day weekend, and Victoria scored an airline employee offer for us to fly to London for around $100/each on a space-available basis. We had some spending money, but not a lot.
On that weekend over 40 years ago we packed our bags, headed to Logan Airport, and found ourselves in London a few hours later. Taking the train into the city centre, we hopped off and, dragging our suitcases behind us, set off to find a place to stay. We stopped at a cheap hotel (as I recall, around £20) and snagged a room. We walked up the stairs and entered it, and were aghast at the sight before us. Alas, it was little more than a flophouse. In fact, “flophouse” might be a generous description.
Nonetheless, we stayed, did a bit of touring that day, and then struck off the next morning for better digs. For a bit more (I think around £29), we ended up in a charming, somewhat ancient little hotel that had once been the lair of highwaymen…at least that’s what the owner told us. Over our three days there, we were on the move non-stop, sampling local fare in cheaper restaurants, buying half-price theatre tickets, and just generally strolling the City, gawking at sites we’d only known about through books; Buckingham Palace, Pall Mall, Piccadilly Circus….
It was the beginning of our decades-long exploration of the world.
Just a couple of years later we were lucky to find ourselves living on the outskirts of Oxfordshire, a dream come true. We traveled with great friends, learned a bit of history, and rubbed elbows with the Royal Family on a few occasions. Over our three years in England we were on the move constantly—weekly trips into London and over two dozen trips by ferry to the Continent. We were exposed to so much; it was an opportunity few have and we took full advantage.
As we were flying to Heathrow, we contrasted this trip with our first trip together to London, back around 1980. Mike was in law school and Victoria was working as a flight attendant for American Airlines. Mike had arranged his class schedule to have a three-day weekend, and Victoria scored an airline employee offer for us to fly to London for around $100/each on a space-available basis. We had some spending money, but not a lot.
On that weekend over 40 years ago we packed our bags, headed to Logan Airport, and found ourselves in London a few hours later. Taking the train into the city centre, we hopped off and, dragging our suitcases behind us, set off to find a place to stay. We stopped at a cheap hotel (as I recall, around £20) and snagged a room. We walked up the stairs and entered it, and were aghast at the sight before us. Alas, it was little more than a flophouse. In fact, “flophouse” might be a generous description.
Nonetheless, we stayed, did a bit of touring that day, and then struck off the next morning for better digs. For a bit more (I think around £29), we ended up in a charming, somewhat ancient little hotel that had once been the lair of highwaymen…at least that’s what the owner told us. Over our three days there, we were on the move non-stop, sampling local fare in cheaper restaurants, buying half-price theatre tickets, and just generally strolling the City, gawking at sites we’d only known about through books; Buckingham Palace, Pall Mall, Piccadilly Circus….
It was the beginning of our decades-long exploration of the world.
Just a couple of years later we were lucky to find ourselves living on the outskirts of Oxfordshire, a dream come true. We traveled with great friends, learned a bit of history, and rubbed elbows with the Royal Family on a few occasions. Over our three years in England we were on the move constantly—weekly trips into London and over two dozen trips by ferry to the Continent. We were exposed to so much; it was an opportunity few have and we took full advantage.
The Homecoming (Oxfordshire)…
This visit was, for us, a homecoming. Our first destination--Le Manoir au Quat’Saisons (https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons/), was not far from our long-ago home on the edge of Oxford. We heard of Le Manoir’s arrival back when we lived in Oxfordshire and visited, though at that earlier time we lacked the financial resources to do anything more than stroll the grounds. This time around we were actually able to fully experience this extraordinary destination.
Le Manoir is exquisite, a fifteenth century manor house that has been expanded and modernized over the years to create what is now a beautiful hotel that incorporates a storied restaurant and cooking school. Chef Blanc’s quest for perfection is evident at every turn, and he has had a hand in selecting every detail, from the restaurant’s menu to the layout of the gardens and paths. Our time there included meals at the restaurant (which has…almost unbelievably…maintained two Michelin stars for almost 40 years), a tour of the garden, and time relaxing in the comfortable, perfectly appointed lounges where cocktails, teas and light snacks are served. Our suite was truly luxurious. Food is a priority here: there are 50 chefs on staff.
We took advantage of our time in Oxfordshire to visit some old stomping grounds—our favorite pub (the Oxford Arms in Kirtlington), Blackwell’s Book Store, and the grounds of Oxford University (Little known fact: Victoria was the first American ever accepted by the Oxford Bach Choir, and frequently performed at the Sheldonian Theatre). We even made a brief stop at our old home in Kidlington, where the present owner invited us to take a look at the garden—picture perfect, as it had been under our stewardship.
Le Manoir is exquisite, a fifteenth century manor house that has been expanded and modernized over the years to create what is now a beautiful hotel that incorporates a storied restaurant and cooking school. Chef Blanc’s quest for perfection is evident at every turn, and he has had a hand in selecting every detail, from the restaurant’s menu to the layout of the gardens and paths. Our time there included meals at the restaurant (which has…almost unbelievably…maintained two Michelin stars for almost 40 years), a tour of the garden, and time relaxing in the comfortable, perfectly appointed lounges where cocktails, teas and light snacks are served. Our suite was truly luxurious. Food is a priority here: there are 50 chefs on staff.
We took advantage of our time in Oxfordshire to visit some old stomping grounds—our favorite pub (the Oxford Arms in Kirtlington), Blackwell’s Book Store, and the grounds of Oxford University (Little known fact: Victoria was the first American ever accepted by the Oxford Bach Choir, and frequently performed at the Sheldonian Theatre). We even made a brief stop at our old home in Kidlington, where the present owner invited us to take a look at the garden—picture perfect, as it had been under our stewardship.
On to London…
It really was, for us, like going home. Our time in Oxfordshire was wonderful, but we had to get back to London, which stands in stark contrast to rural, somewhat sleepy, Great Milton. Bustling with tourists and Londoners who were just out and about, London offers it all—great theatre, world class dining and shopping that rivals that anywhere, all set in one of the world’s most historic cities. We were taken directly to the Beaumont, one of the City’s iconic hotels. Again, back in The Day we spent a great deal of time in London. Our home was near the Oxford Ring Road, which connected to the M4 Motorway, and at perhaps some supralegal speeds we could be in London in just over an hour. Theatre, iconic shopping, beautiful parks, and, above all, royal pageantry were always on tap when we visited. Often we did so more than once a week.
Returning to London was truly magical, though the weather was damp and cool. We stayed in a luxurious suite at the Beaumont, one of the more intimate and approachable properties among the top tier of London hotels, located in Mayfair (https://www.thebeaumont.com/). A hint of the soul of this hotel is revealed by the concierge’s recommendation for a friendly, easy dinner: Chippy’s Fish & Chips, a phenomenally good place to eat, where we breezed past a long queue, thanks to the reservation she made for us. This recommendation reflects what we always experience at the Beaumont—the highest level of comfort, served alongside personal warmth and gracious service.
Over three days in London we explored a few other dining destinations, but more importantly, updated our knowledge of some of the other hotels that are on our clients’ must-visit lists.
Our time in London was too short, but we were able to visit two other hotels that are more than worthy of one’s consideration when visiting—Claridge’s (https://www.claridges.co.uk/) and Raffles London at the WOW (https://www.raffles.com/london/).
Claridge’s is a benchmark for luxury hotels in London—something every London hotelier would tell you—and during our visit we toured the top suites, which are truly remarkable.
Raffles is equally extraordinary, though in a different way…situated in the building once occupied by the War Office, the hotel represents the culmination of a years-long project to preserve an historic building while converting it to modern use. There are too many highlights to mention them all, but certainly at or near the top was touring the Granville Suite, once the office of Sir Winston Churchill. If you are searching for a London hotel that exemplifies the highest standards of luxury while embracing an incredible history, this may be the right choice.
Quite a bit of our time in London was devoted to long strolls…through the parks, down the crowded avenues, and occasionally stopping in to check out shops that can be found nowhere else on the planet. And on a cool, damp day there can be no greater pleasure than an unplanned stop at Brown’s Hotel for hot tea. So we did.
Returning to London was truly magical, though the weather was damp and cool. We stayed in a luxurious suite at the Beaumont, one of the more intimate and approachable properties among the top tier of London hotels, located in Mayfair (https://www.thebeaumont.com/). A hint of the soul of this hotel is revealed by the concierge’s recommendation for a friendly, easy dinner: Chippy’s Fish & Chips, a phenomenally good place to eat, where we breezed past a long queue, thanks to the reservation she made for us. This recommendation reflects what we always experience at the Beaumont—the highest level of comfort, served alongside personal warmth and gracious service.
Over three days in London we explored a few other dining destinations, but more importantly, updated our knowledge of some of the other hotels that are on our clients’ must-visit lists.
Our time in London was too short, but we were able to visit two other hotels that are more than worthy of one’s consideration when visiting—Claridge’s (https://www.claridges.co.uk/) and Raffles London at the WOW (https://www.raffles.com/london/).
Claridge’s is a benchmark for luxury hotels in London—something every London hotelier would tell you—and during our visit we toured the top suites, which are truly remarkable.
Raffles is equally extraordinary, though in a different way…situated in the building once occupied by the War Office, the hotel represents the culmination of a years-long project to preserve an historic building while converting it to modern use. There are too many highlights to mention them all, but certainly at or near the top was touring the Granville Suite, once the office of Sir Winston Churchill. If you are searching for a London hotel that exemplifies the highest standards of luxury while embracing an incredible history, this may be the right choice.
Quite a bit of our time in London was devoted to long strolls…through the parks, down the crowded avenues, and occasionally stopping in to check out shops that can be found nowhere else on the planet. And on a cool, damp day there can be no greater pleasure than an unplanned stop at Brown’s Hotel for hot tea. So we did.
All things considered, this homecoming was perfect: a reunion with our old home, the conjuring up of fond memories, and the opportunity to visit stunning properties, further focusing in on finding the perfect venue for your next visit to the U.K.
If we were told that we absolutely had to stay forever in one hotel in England, it would be a difficult choice—country or urban, dressy or casual? But each of those we visited would be a contender. This particular trip was a homecoming, returning to places near and dear to our hearts, but also an opportunity to experience and evaluate some top destinations for our discerning clientele.
The next time you’re contemplating a visit to the U.K. we will point you to exactly where you need to be. It is, after all, our long-ago and forever home.
If we were told that we absolutely had to stay forever in one hotel in England, it would be a difficult choice—country or urban, dressy or casual? But each of those we visited would be a contender. This particular trip was a homecoming, returning to places near and dear to our hearts, but also an opportunity to experience and evaluate some top destinations for our discerning clientele.
The next time you’re contemplating a visit to the U.K. we will point you to exactly where you need to be. It is, after all, our long-ago and forever home.
One&Only continues to bring our clients innovation and comfort in groundbreaking resorts that are setting the standards for excellence. A visit to one of their extraordinary resorts in Greece or Montenegro would be the perfect gift to someone dear to you (or perhaps to yourself). We offer you this preview of three of these wonderful properties….
One&Only Aesthesis (Opened November 11th)
SPECTACULAR OCEANSIDE ESCAPE
Surrounded by azure waters, verdant forest reserves and postcard-perfect beaches, your Greek oasis is immersed in the enchanting beauty of the Aegean Sea. Minutes from the heart of Athens yet steps away from the ocean, soak up the gentle air of nostalgia at One&Only Aesthesis, where our elevated beach bungalows, chic residences and exceptional villas are imbued with mid-century glamour.
AN UNTOLD WORLD OF NOSTALGIA
One&Only Aesthesis recalls the 1960s heyday of the Athenian Riviera, reigniting cosmopolitan glamour on the shores of Glyfada.
DESIGNING AN ICON
Three acclaimed architecture firms – AUDO, A6Architects, and K-Studio – along with interior design studio Muza Lab, were commissioned to bring One&Only Aesthesis to life. The result is a captivating resort where the highest levels of aesthetics, sustainability and execution are grounded in a deep respect for the past.
THE ATHENIAN RIVIERA, REVEALED
Let One&Only Aesthesis unlock the wonders of the Athenian Riviera. Relax in our spectacular pools and private sandy beaches and embrace the art of wellness at Greece's first Guerlain Spa. Beyond the resort, we reveal a new side to the ancient capital, with curated adventures that take you to the cultured heart of Athens, just a 30-minute drive away.
CULINARY JOURNEYS
Delight in Mediterranean-inspired day-to-night dining as we take you from relaxed breakfasts and laidback poolside lunches to sunset cocktails, vibrant tapas, and late-night libations. At the heart of the One&Only Aesthesis dining experiences is a pair of destination restaurants from master chefs Ettore Botrini and Paco Morales, who bring their Italian, Greek and Moorish culinary artistry to the table.
Resort Facts
Surrounded by azure waters, verdant forest reserves and postcard-perfect beaches, your Greek oasis is immersed in the enchanting beauty of the Aegean Sea. Minutes from the heart of Athens yet steps away from the ocean, soak up the gentle air of nostalgia at One&Only Aesthesis, where our elevated beach bungalows, chic residences and exceptional villas are imbued with mid-century glamour.
AN UNTOLD WORLD OF NOSTALGIA
One&Only Aesthesis recalls the 1960s heyday of the Athenian Riviera, reigniting cosmopolitan glamour on the shores of Glyfada.
DESIGNING AN ICON
Three acclaimed architecture firms – AUDO, A6Architects, and K-Studio – along with interior design studio Muza Lab, were commissioned to bring One&Only Aesthesis to life. The result is a captivating resort where the highest levels of aesthetics, sustainability and execution are grounded in a deep respect for the past.
THE ATHENIAN RIVIERA, REVEALED
Let One&Only Aesthesis unlock the wonders of the Athenian Riviera. Relax in our spectacular pools and private sandy beaches and embrace the art of wellness at Greece's first Guerlain Spa. Beyond the resort, we reveal a new side to the ancient capital, with curated adventures that take you to the cultured heart of Athens, just a 30-minute drive away.
CULINARY JOURNEYS
Delight in Mediterranean-inspired day-to-night dining as we take you from relaxed breakfasts and laidback poolside lunches to sunset cocktails, vibrant tapas, and late-night libations. At the heart of the One&Only Aesthesis dining experiences is a pair of destination restaurants from master chefs Ettore Botrini and Paco Morales, who bring their Italian, Greek and Moorish culinary artistry to the table.
Resort Facts
- 127 keys: 95 private beach and garden bungalows (all with private pools); 19 rooms and suites and a signature Villa One with private pool
- 21-hectares of exclusive beachfront estate in Southern Athens with 1.6km of private seafront and a 6-hectare forest reserve
- Three restaurants and a bar
- Three pools tow beaches, including adults-only pool and beach
- Destination Beach Club with pools, stylish cabanas, restaurant, bar and entertainment
- Club One with tennis courts
- Greece’s First Guerlain Spa
One&Only Kea Island (Opening April 2024)
UNDISCOVERED GREEK GEM
Occupying a dazzling, 65-hectare beachfront site on the west side of Kéa island in the Cyclades, One&Only Kéa Island glimmers with the promise of discretion and seclusion, just a stone’s throw from Athens. Boasting flawless all-villa accommodation by the sea, the resort will also offer an enviable collection of One&Only Private Homes to call your own
Reconnect with natural rhythms at One&Only Kéa Island and experience the revitalizing and grounding Mediterranean lifestyle in its purest form. Explore the resort and its grounds, or roam further afield to discover the verdant charms of the Cyclades' most fertile island. Whatever lures you here, feel the secrets of Kéa come alive, igniting deep passions and inspiring the soul.
FLAWLESS VILLAS
Featuring monolithic, vertically oriented architecture, our contemporary villas hug the hillside above the beach. Each villa comes with a private pool, terrace, courtyard and fireplace. Most sport panoramic, almost 360-degree views of the sparkling sea and bay, bringing the blue-and-gold scenery in.
ON ISLAND TIME
A secluded enclave amid cobalt Aegean waters, Kéa island ignites deep passions among adventurous travellers. It’s a place of rocky cliffs, rolling olive groves and ancient civilizations. Reconnect with the elements as you explore land and sea through tailored experiences and itineraries.
AEGEAN WONDER
Inspired by the azure blue waters of the Cyclades, One&Only Kéa Island’s one- and two-bedroom villas capture the serenity of island life with secluded spaces, indigenous materials and modern design elements that bring the outdoors in. Find room to relax and let your mind wander.
Resort Facts
Occupying a dazzling, 65-hectare beachfront site on the west side of Kéa island in the Cyclades, One&Only Kéa Island glimmers with the promise of discretion and seclusion, just a stone’s throw from Athens. Boasting flawless all-villa accommodation by the sea, the resort will also offer an enviable collection of One&Only Private Homes to call your own
Reconnect with natural rhythms at One&Only Kéa Island and experience the revitalizing and grounding Mediterranean lifestyle in its purest form. Explore the resort and its grounds, or roam further afield to discover the verdant charms of the Cyclades' most fertile island. Whatever lures you here, feel the secrets of Kéa come alive, igniting deep passions and inspiring the soul.
FLAWLESS VILLAS
Featuring monolithic, vertically oriented architecture, our contemporary villas hug the hillside above the beach. Each villa comes with a private pool, terrace, courtyard and fireplace. Most sport panoramic, almost 360-degree views of the sparkling sea and bay, bringing the blue-and-gold scenery in.
ON ISLAND TIME
A secluded enclave amid cobalt Aegean waters, Kéa island ignites deep passions among adventurous travellers. It’s a place of rocky cliffs, rolling olive groves and ancient civilizations. Reconnect with the elements as you explore land and sea through tailored experiences and itineraries.
AEGEAN WONDER
Inspired by the azure blue waters of the Cyclades, One&Only Kéa Island’s one- and two-bedroom villas capture the serenity of island life with secluded spaces, indigenous materials and modern design elements that bring the outdoors in. Find room to relax and let your mind wander.
Resort Facts
- 73keys: one and two bedroom villas, all with private pools, terraces, courtyards and a fireplace
- All villas feature almost 360-degree see and bay views
- Located a stone’s throw form Athens: 40 minute ferry ride from Athens Lavrio Port or 10-minute helicopter ride from Athens International Airport
- 65-hectare site located in the Bay of Voskopos in western side of Kea Island
- Two restaurants and a bar
- Four pools: two main outdoor pools, two spa pools (indoor and outdoor)
One&Only Portonovi
DISCOVER THE LOCATION
Positioned just off the open Adriatic coastline, at the elegant entrance to Boka Bay in Herceg Novi, One&Only Portonovi is the jewel of Montenegro's flourishing new riviera. Rejoice in pristine beaches, sun-soaked sailing, and forest hiking. Wander the cobbled streets and fresco-filled churches of neighboring Medieval towns like Perast and Kotor. Where culture meets natural beauty, glamour, and adventure, you can experience the most unique things to do in Montenegro.
THE JEWEL OF THE ADRIATIC
Resplendent at the entrance of Boka Bay, a fjord-like idyll on Montenegro’s Adriatic Sea, One&Only Portonovi is the jewel of Europe’s most fashionable new riviera, all year round. A rare nautical playground offering fresh air adventures through sapphire waters, dramatic forest, and medieval towns. Perfectly balanced with chic, water-front relaxation, world-class dining, and pioneering wellness by Chenot.
ONE-OF-A-KIND LOCATION
Nestled in the southeast of Europe, neighboring the established hotspots of tourism Croatia, Greece and Italy - Montenegro is a safe, undiscovered destination of stunning beauty, that should be part of any European circuit.
CHIC & PALATIAL LIVING
Located in the heart of Boka Bay, our 60 acres of sprawling resort overlooks a dramatic coastline of mountain vistas and calm waters, emphasizing a sense of privacy and chic palatial living.
CHENOT WELLNESS PROGRAMMES
Discover a selection of curated wellness programmes at Chenot Espace including a 6-day Detox Programme; 4-day De-Stress & Re-Charge Programme; 3-day Fitness Programme; and a 2-day Weekend Spa programme.
NATURAL BEAUTY, REFLECTED
Inspired by cerulean seas and emerald valleys, terracotta rooftops and crisp silver mountainsides, your private sanctuary reflects and amplifies the beauty of Boka Bay. Mesmerizing views are drawn inside your private world, perfectly framed by floor-to-ceiling glass. Wake up to orange skies, gentle birdsong, and the buzz of passing boats - a show to keep you mesmerized all day.
Resort Facts
Positioned just off the open Adriatic coastline, at the elegant entrance to Boka Bay in Herceg Novi, One&Only Portonovi is the jewel of Montenegro's flourishing new riviera. Rejoice in pristine beaches, sun-soaked sailing, and forest hiking. Wander the cobbled streets and fresco-filled churches of neighboring Medieval towns like Perast and Kotor. Where culture meets natural beauty, glamour, and adventure, you can experience the most unique things to do in Montenegro.
THE JEWEL OF THE ADRIATIC
Resplendent at the entrance of Boka Bay, a fjord-like idyll on Montenegro’s Adriatic Sea, One&Only Portonovi is the jewel of Europe’s most fashionable new riviera, all year round. A rare nautical playground offering fresh air adventures through sapphire waters, dramatic forest, and medieval towns. Perfectly balanced with chic, water-front relaxation, world-class dining, and pioneering wellness by Chenot.
ONE-OF-A-KIND LOCATION
Nestled in the southeast of Europe, neighboring the established hotspots of tourism Croatia, Greece and Italy - Montenegro is a safe, undiscovered destination of stunning beauty, that should be part of any European circuit.
CHIC & PALATIAL LIVING
Located in the heart of Boka Bay, our 60 acres of sprawling resort overlooks a dramatic coastline of mountain vistas and calm waters, emphasizing a sense of privacy and chic palatial living.
CHENOT WELLNESS PROGRAMMES
Discover a selection of curated wellness programmes at Chenot Espace including a 6-day Detox Programme; 4-day De-Stress & Re-Charge Programme; 3-day Fitness Programme; and a 2-day Weekend Spa programme.
NATURAL BEAUTY, REFLECTED
Inspired by cerulean seas and emerald valleys, terracotta rooftops and crisp silver mountainsides, your private sanctuary reflects and amplifies the beauty of Boka Bay. Mesmerizing views are drawn inside your private world, perfectly framed by floor-to-ceiling glass. Wake up to orange skies, gentle birdsong, and the buzz of passing boats - a show to keep you mesmerized all day.
Resort Facts
- 123 keys, 105 rooms, six suites and twelve villas – including a Villa One with private pool and ten Signature Villas with private pool, beach and jetty
- Three restaurants and a bar, including Tapasake
- Chenot Espace, the ultimate center for medically inspired wellness
- Access to a 238-berth D-Marin Portonovi Marina, as well as private jetty for One&Only guests
As with any great destination, availability at these resorts is limited. Please phone Victoria at 630.420.3538 or email her at [email protected] to move ahead with your One&Only reservation!
| Over the span of many decades and over 100 countries visited, there are some moments that stick out. For us, our first visit to Amalfi was one of those. It was 25 years ago. We were on a cruise ship and had just tendered from our ship to Amalfi. It was…as is true of most of the Amalfi Coast…striking as one approached from the sea. But, it was when we docked and strolled across the coastal road into the town itself that the magic of the place struck us. A beautiful cathedral, sidewalk cafes, and charming shops unfolded before us as we entered the town. Walking down the street we were drawn to a storefront advertising villa rentals. Could we? Should we? |
We grabbed a pamphlet and talked for a few minutes with the owner, then resumed our exploration of Amalfi. But, the idea stuck with us. We stayed in touch, and the following year found ourselves in a small villa in Conca dei Marini, the town nearest Amalfi. It was magical. We packed a lot into the week we had there—a variety of restaurants, shopping, traveling to Ravello by bus, and a visit to Pompeii. Some real laughs, too, like the little pizzeria where the locals stared at us like we were Martians, then brought us homemade wine and digestives, along with a pizza that covered our entire table.
Unforgettable.
And thus began a couple of decades of regular visits to Italy—Rome, Venice, Florence, the Piemonte, Lake Como, and more. Every region is distinct and each offers unique treasures, but the Amalfi Coast always beckons. The towns are impossibly beautiful and built on improbable mountainsides that tumble to the sea, with villas, cafes, and stylish shops lining the winding streets.
This time we located a villa in Positano, and brought along our son, daughter-in-law, and a good friend—Alex, Aly, and Alison, the three A’s. We worked closely with two of our regional partners, IC Bellagio and FORADAY, experts in all things Italian. As we have said before, when we plan our clients’ travel, we rely on industry partnerships in over 100 countries, where we collaborate with those companies with local knowledge and insider access. IC Bellagio, located in Lake Como, was founded by our good friend Andrea Grisdale and is, in our estimation, unrivaled in their ability to offer our clients exceptional experiences throughout Italy. FORADAY, founded by our friend Alessandro Mattera, specializes in the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Ischia. Comprised primarily of specialists in various fields of science, FORADAY offers our clients a deep dive (literally, should you prefer) into the ecology, art, and cultural beauty of this area of Italy.
The overall experience of working with these two companies afforded us a seamless, stress-free, and enriching visit. Without making this a play-by-play, we ate at fantastic restaurants; shopped for unique ceramics, olive oils, balsamic vinegar, and limoncello in places that might be missed by most; hiked the stunning Path of the Gods; and, overall, visited some of the most beautiful places imaginable. Each night we returned to our beautiful villa overlooking Positano. We cooked our own breakfasts, made a dinner or two, and had professional chefs come in one night for an unforgettable meal.
Interspersed among these adventures, we took a culinary tour of Sorrento, visited Pompeii, trekked to an agriturismo where we helped prepare a sumptuous meal (and met the goats), and toured local towns, including stunning Ravello.
Equally unforgettable—our “Wow!” experience was a cruise to Ischia and Capri aboard a stunning yacht, accompanied by our long-time friend Andrea Grisdale. We visited Alessandro, took a tour of Ischia aboard tiny APE three-wheelers, and met his staff for a truly home-cooked meal at the home of some local acquaintances.
Of course, trips like this are, at least for us, focused on discovering and evaluating experiences we can recommend for our clients. We were able to return to Positano’s revered hotel, Le Sirenuse, and can report that she remains one of the world’s finest hotels, with a level of luxury, service, and attention to detail that remains at the highest level. Dining al fresco at Le Sirenuse was, as one should expect, a wonderful experience, marked by exceptional service and food prepared to perfection.
Likewise, the tours we arranged through IC Bellagio were perfect in every way. Our guides—all local, certified experts—were uniformly excellent. The fellow who met us at Pompeii was not only an archaeologist, but, maybe more importantly, still giddy with enthusiasm over sharing his knowledge of the ancient city after decades of working as a guide. On a day when the crowds might have been a bit intimidating for the casual visitor, he maneuvered us to uncrowded areas of the city and shared details and insights that most visitors never experience.
Our guide along the Path of the Gods…again a local…shared not only her knowledge of the history of the ancient path, but also provided insight into her personal journey as lifelong resident. It bears mention that hiking this path, while a bit physically demanding, affords vistas and a connection to nature that one misses completely if they stick to the towns.
The agriturismo? A remote little slice of Heaven. We were greeted with a glass of wine, then took a brief tour of the farm, including the gardens, the pigs, and the goats. After the tour, we learned how to make pastas (including gnocchi), and enjoyed a sumptuous meal. It all ended in hilarity as the husband explained his first date with his wife, during which she struggled to cook him an egg. The poor guy could barely make it through the story, nearly doubled over with laughter. And now, of course, she’s a master of the kitchen.
That’s really the great reward for us. The beautiful scenery, the fine restaurants, and the lovely villas and hotels are all truly fantastic. But, it’s in the moments of genuine human connection that one experiences the joy of travel.
Ultimately, it had to come to an end. Leaving our villa, we left for Naples, where we enjoyed some of the best pizza on the planet in the place that invented pizza, and followed up with a visit to some extraordinary sites in Naples.
It was, for all of us, unforgettable…a time to unwind in one of the most beautiful places imaginable, tasting a wide range of the experiences of the type that we hope to craft for our clients. It was one of those magical times when everything was so perfect that we truly did not want to come home. Please enjoy a few photos from our visit.
Unforgettable.
And thus began a couple of decades of regular visits to Italy—Rome, Venice, Florence, the Piemonte, Lake Como, and more. Every region is distinct and each offers unique treasures, but the Amalfi Coast always beckons. The towns are impossibly beautiful and built on improbable mountainsides that tumble to the sea, with villas, cafes, and stylish shops lining the winding streets.
This time we located a villa in Positano, and brought along our son, daughter-in-law, and a good friend—Alex, Aly, and Alison, the three A’s. We worked closely with two of our regional partners, IC Bellagio and FORADAY, experts in all things Italian. As we have said before, when we plan our clients’ travel, we rely on industry partnerships in over 100 countries, where we collaborate with those companies with local knowledge and insider access. IC Bellagio, located in Lake Como, was founded by our good friend Andrea Grisdale and is, in our estimation, unrivaled in their ability to offer our clients exceptional experiences throughout Italy. FORADAY, founded by our friend Alessandro Mattera, specializes in the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Ischia. Comprised primarily of specialists in various fields of science, FORADAY offers our clients a deep dive (literally, should you prefer) into the ecology, art, and cultural beauty of this area of Italy.
The overall experience of working with these two companies afforded us a seamless, stress-free, and enriching visit. Without making this a play-by-play, we ate at fantastic restaurants; shopped for unique ceramics, olive oils, balsamic vinegar, and limoncello in places that might be missed by most; hiked the stunning Path of the Gods; and, overall, visited some of the most beautiful places imaginable. Each night we returned to our beautiful villa overlooking Positano. We cooked our own breakfasts, made a dinner or two, and had professional chefs come in one night for an unforgettable meal.
Interspersed among these adventures, we took a culinary tour of Sorrento, visited Pompeii, trekked to an agriturismo where we helped prepare a sumptuous meal (and met the goats), and toured local towns, including stunning Ravello.
Equally unforgettable—our “Wow!” experience was a cruise to Ischia and Capri aboard a stunning yacht, accompanied by our long-time friend Andrea Grisdale. We visited Alessandro, took a tour of Ischia aboard tiny APE three-wheelers, and met his staff for a truly home-cooked meal at the home of some local acquaintances.
Of course, trips like this are, at least for us, focused on discovering and evaluating experiences we can recommend for our clients. We were able to return to Positano’s revered hotel, Le Sirenuse, and can report that she remains one of the world’s finest hotels, with a level of luxury, service, and attention to detail that remains at the highest level. Dining al fresco at Le Sirenuse was, as one should expect, a wonderful experience, marked by exceptional service and food prepared to perfection.
Likewise, the tours we arranged through IC Bellagio were perfect in every way. Our guides—all local, certified experts—were uniformly excellent. The fellow who met us at Pompeii was not only an archaeologist, but, maybe more importantly, still giddy with enthusiasm over sharing his knowledge of the ancient city after decades of working as a guide. On a day when the crowds might have been a bit intimidating for the casual visitor, he maneuvered us to uncrowded areas of the city and shared details and insights that most visitors never experience.
Our guide along the Path of the Gods…again a local…shared not only her knowledge of the history of the ancient path, but also provided insight into her personal journey as lifelong resident. It bears mention that hiking this path, while a bit physically demanding, affords vistas and a connection to nature that one misses completely if they stick to the towns.
The agriturismo? A remote little slice of Heaven. We were greeted with a glass of wine, then took a brief tour of the farm, including the gardens, the pigs, and the goats. After the tour, we learned how to make pastas (including gnocchi), and enjoyed a sumptuous meal. It all ended in hilarity as the husband explained his first date with his wife, during which she struggled to cook him an egg. The poor guy could barely make it through the story, nearly doubled over with laughter. And now, of course, she’s a master of the kitchen.
That’s really the great reward for us. The beautiful scenery, the fine restaurants, and the lovely villas and hotels are all truly fantastic. But, it’s in the moments of genuine human connection that one experiences the joy of travel.
Ultimately, it had to come to an end. Leaving our villa, we left for Naples, where we enjoyed some of the best pizza on the planet in the place that invented pizza, and followed up with a visit to some extraordinary sites in Naples.
It was, for all of us, unforgettable…a time to unwind in one of the most beautiful places imaginable, tasting a wide range of the experiences of the type that we hope to craft for our clients. It was one of those magical times when everything was so perfect that we truly did not want to come home. Please enjoy a few photos from our visit.


































































































































