Over the years the image of Paris has been one of sophistication and beauty. Truly unique in the world, Paris blends haute couture, fine dining, history, and stunning architecture together in a manner that makes it a perennial favorite of international travelers. It was to become the first chapter of our unforgettable trip to France with cherished friends.

Winging our way from Chicago’s O’Hare IAP aboard United Airlines, we were delivered on time and whisked through the airport by the greeter from our hotel, the Mandarin Oriental Lutetia on the Left Bank. While some have experienced frustration with the EU’s new EEC system, we flew through the process. We, and our friends Katie and Mike, cleared Immigration in five minutes an we were soon on our way.

The Mandarin Oriental Lutetia is a stellar hotel, combining luxury with the informality of the Left Bank. It served as the perfect base for our next three days in Paris, and we hit the ground running that first morning. Our time in Paris included, in no particular order: a fantastic motorcycle sidecar tour of the city (the guides were really good!); visits to fashion exhibits; the incredible Carnavale Museum of Parisian history (https://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/en); the Rodin Museum, a bit of shopping; and wonderful dining, the height of which was a dinner at Restaurant Allard, an Alain Ducasse bistro that dates to 1932 (https://www.restaurant-allard.fr/en/).  

Restaurant Allard is an incredible culinary experience, a tiny bistro where you sit nearly shoulder to shoulder with adjacent diners…and if you are drawing up your short list of “must visit” restaurants to experience in your lifetime, this must be among them. The service is highly professional and friendly, and the food is sublime. We struck up conversations with the couples at adjoining tables, were soon exchanging stories, and even shared some our desserts with them. 

Even if your fashion choices lean more towards Eddie Bauer than Christian Dior, there’s no doubt that Paris sits atop the rest of the world in terms of fashion (sorry, Milan). With that in mind, we took in two memorable fashion exhibits, and even the two Mikes had to admit they were fascinating. Of course, one cannot visit Paris without doing a bit of shopping, so true to that credo, Victoria and Katie ensured that we visited Chatelles to see if they could find some of their exquisite hand-crafted shoes to add to their respective wardrobes (spoiler alert: they succeeded).

We were on the go every minute during our time in Paris. It was an incredible visit, but the next phase of our journey would allow us to slow the pace considerably. 

​(Click on any of the photos below to see them in their entirety.)

After our fast-paced visit to Paris, it was time to move on to what we had planned as the true focus of our visit, a week aboard one of Belmond's Les Bateaux fleet of floating villas, Coquelicot. Our driver met us at the hotel, loaded our bags, and took us directly to Châlons-en-Champagne, where we were met by the Captain and crew, briefly toured the boat, and embarked upon a short walking tour of the town. It’s a charming town and we enjoyed the walk, but we were more excited about getting back to Coquelicot. 

The Les Bateaux fleet is comprised of former working boats that have been transformed into exquisite floating villas. Coquelicot is one of the more recent additions to the fleet, a beautifully decorated boat with three suites that accommodate a total of six passengers. On our boat there were six crew members seeing to our needs, including a hostess, a professional chef, and four others who all pitched in to provide a true villa experience afloat.

We tend to get up pretty early in the morning, so we would make our way to the lounge to start our morning coffee routine. Shortly thereafter one of the crew would appear with unlimited amounts of coffee (or whatever you might personally prefer), and ultimately we…the guests, that is…would join in for what was always a magnificent breakfast, including the morning’s fresh French pastries (always from a local bakery), meats, cheeses, fruit, and a beautifully cooked dish by Chef Benjamin. 

If one chooses, a guest could simply lounge on the boat throughout the day, but we all decided to take part in the daily touring offered by Sarah, our on board guest ambassador. Historic sites were always a part of the routine, and on most days we visited multiple Champagne houses, ranging from the big names (like Ruinart, Veuve Clicquot, etc.) to smaller, family owned houses. Each was distinct. Each was beautiful. And we had some extraordinary experiences, including an impromptu hour spent with the world’s foremost innovator in biodynamic wine production. One day we accompanied Sarah to the local market, helped her with shopping, and ended up being treated to free champagne and fresh oysters by some of the locals at the market.

There were days when we had lunch back on board Coquelicot, and others when we dined off the boat. Most evenings we had an incredible meal aboard…again prepared to the highest level of French gastronomy by Chef Benjamin…but on one evening we dined at the Ruinart champagne house, taking in a dining experience that we can guarantee is unparalleled anywhere in the world. Of course, when visiting the champagne houses there is always the opportunity to shop, and a couple of cargo ships are currently crossing the Atlantic with precious bottles of the world’s finest champagne.

​Belmond’s Les Bateaux experience is truly, truly remarkable. Our fellow travelers were so taken by the experience that they immediately began asking us when our (the collective “our”) next trip would take place. We are currently looking at which we will choose, but since next year will mark our fiftieth anniversary, we’re contemplating a voyage that will take us to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the locale of the wine that we have enjoyed on our wedding day and every anniversary since. 

​Somehow we will do this again. Click the play button (▶️) below for a brief video montage of our Les Bateaux journey….

Our Coquelicot voyage was absolutely perfect in every way, but we ultimately had to turn over our floating villa for the next fortunate guests. Our friends Mike and Katie went on to Burgundy (and ultimately Sicily), but our journey was not yet at an end.

We, along with our other dear friends Eric and Lora, jumped in a Mercedes van and made our way to Bayeux, in the heart of Normandy, to continue our exploration of France.  D-Day, June 6, 1944, changed the course of human history, and the next few days would familiarize us with the events and places where the incalculable courage of Americans and our Allies laid the foundation for the liberation of France and shaped the decades that have followed. On our first morning in Bayeux we were greeted at the hotel by our guide, a British expat, who shared his encyclopedic knowledge of the events leading to the rise of the Third Reich, World War II, and, ultimately the Allies’ victory. We started with a visit to the American Military Cemetery, where we arrived to witness Memorial Day ceremonies, then went on to Pegasus Bridge, the site of the first combat engagement of D-Day, and over the course of our time in Normandy visited each of the Allies’ landing beaches, as well as the memorials and major museums that chronicle the history of those who planned and executed the largest amphibious assault in history. 

While Paris imparted a taste of French sophistication and our floating villa permitted us to soak in a languorous and luxurious week of beauty and exquisite food and wine, our visit to Normandy brought to us an understanding of the events that permitted us to enjoy those luxuries, as well as the other benefits of the post-war world. In the course of just a couple of days we learned more about history than in all the years of formal schooling that had preceded. Most of all, it cemented our undying gratitude for those who went before us. So, here’s a solid recommendation: you must find a way to experience this, hopefully with your children or grandchildren who are of the age where they can appreciate what they will see. You owe it to them and you owe it to those who fought on those shores. A professional guide is a must.

Ultimately, as with all good things—in this case fantastic things—our time in France was coming to an end. We checked out of our Bayeux hotel and made our way to Chantilly, where we spent our last night. But even this part of the trip was fascinating. Our driver/guide was a young woman who, like our guide of the previous two days, had an incredible depth of knowledge of the region’s history. She is even a WW II reenactor, and when we stopped for lunch at an exquisite hotel (one that hosted Monet during his most creative span), she shared photos of her hobby as a reenactor, along with those of her husband and their family WW II Jeep).

Epilogue:

This was a journey of incredible variety, from wanderings in the most sophisticated city on Earth, Paris, to a week of luxurious relaxation and exploration aboard our floating Belmond villa, to an in-depth exploration of Normandy, where perhaps the most important events of the twentieth century took place. 

There is every reason in the world why you should undertake a trip of this sort as we did—with wonderful friends. The splendor of exploration and learning is multiplied a hundredfold when you share extraordinary moments, including at times uncontrollable laughter, with those who are special to you. We are beyond grateful that Katie, Mike, Eric and Lora joined us as we explored France.

As much as we love these experiences, we enjoy just as much the process of creating like experiences for others. We truly hope that you will choose to travel beyond.

Perfection. On this trip it came for me in the moment where we found ourselves at roadside stop on a remote road in Botswana, with a motorcycle broken beyond repair. It wasn’t our motorcycle. The rear subframe of my friend Mike’s BMW had decided to detach from the rest of the bike, collapsing on the rear tire and leaving the panniers dangling precariously while he wrestled the bike to a stop. 

But, we’ll get back to this later….

Our journey began years ago. My friend Mike and I had begun conspiring to take a motorcycle trip through Africa. We had all but finalized our plans with John Jesson, the owner/president of the world’s leading motorcycle touring company, Ayres Adventures (https://www.ayresadventures.com/), when world events conspired to force us to cancel. The plan had to be put on hold, but meanwhile Mike and I (“the other Mike”) did a fair amount of riding together—circling Lake Michigan and dragging our wives, Elan’s Victoria and Katie, along on an epic two-wheeled exploration of America’s National Parks. Other destinations beckoned—Portugal, Italy, England—and the plan was put on the back burner.

Still, Africa called. If you’ve ever visited, you’ll understand why. Ernest Hemingway, in Green Hills of Africa, wrote in 1935,

“All I wanted to do now was get back to Africa. We had not left it yet, but when I would wake in the night I would lie listening, homesick for it already.”

Africa…at least every place I have been, is wild and raw, touched by peoples who are attuned to the rhythms of nature. It is also stunning, on a number of levels.

One day, The Other Mike said to me, “if we don’t do this now, we may never have the chance.” I was in. Victoria and Katie were part of the deal, their only stipulation being that they had to have the chance to occasionally ride in the support van if this mad plan came to fruition. So, it was on the tenth of March, 2026 that we found ourselves winging our way to Cape Town, South Africa. The others had visited South Africa (Victoria, at least three or four times), but for me it was a new destination. 

We were met at Cape Town International Airport by our colleagues from Micato Safaris, who had agreed to help us with the transfer to our hotel. As it turned out, they had bigger plans. We were met by Micato’s Deon and Tony, who graciously greeted us and delivered us (and our riding gear) to The Silo, an unimaginably beautiful hotel located on Cape Town’s waterfront. The Silo is unique in the world, a luxury hotel with only 28 guest rooms and suites, built within the framework of an old grain silo. Liz Biden, the owner and famed designer, has imbued this property (and the others within the Royal Portfolio) with an infusion of color and native art that exudes charm and comfort. It was to be our home for the next three nights. It would have been more than enough had we stayed in any of The Silo’s 28 guest rooms, but to our great surprise we were delivered to the Royal Suite. The sophisticated design of the suite was rivaled only by the sweeping 180-degree views from the windows and balcony of the suite. 

Deon and Tony met us early the next day and treated us to a wondrous tour of Cape Town, including a trip to the top of Table Mountain via the aerial tram. The tour was punctuated by a surprise stop at an ice cream stand created by Micato, and the day was further highlighted by lunch at a local restaurant where Victoria had an unexpected reunion with one of Micato’s executives, who is now the area director for the company. Our time in Cape Town was absolutely magnificent. Not only were we treated to unparalleled hospitality by The Silo, we explored the waterfront on our own and had a truly great time. Our friends at Micato ensured that every aspect of our time in Cape Town was outstanding, acting as our guardians, guides, and chauffeurs throughout our time there. 

On our last evening we had a remarkable opportunity, to visit Leeukoppie, the mountain home of Sal Kerzner, a legendary figure in the world of hospitality. It is truly stunning, Kerzner’s incredibly luxurious family compound overlooking the ocean. Leeukoppie is in the process of transforming their business model, and we have been made privy to the details. We’ll describe this in more detail at a later time, but it our visit to was wonderful, and it is now part of the Elán portfolio. 

This was all just a prelude. On our third morning in Cape Town we took a short walk to the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, another excellent hotel situated on Cape Town’s waterfront, which was to be the launching point for our motorcycle tour of Southern Africa. Late afternoon on March 14 we gathered in a meeting room where we met the other members of our group and our tour leaders, Claus Lazik and Lenro Fraser. We soon learned that these gents are the consummate professionals. 

Claus has led over 300 motorcycle tours that have touched every continent (yes, he’s even ridden in Antarctica). He is serious yet good natured, and it seems quite likely that motor oil courses through his arteries and veins. Lenro has led numerous tours for various companies, leads tours on his own, and is a South African. He’s a former rugby player and is roughly the size of a rhinoceros. He’s also the consummate gentleman, preternaturally intelligent, soft spoken and diplomatic…someone whose skills at gentle persuasion proved invaluable at various times on our journey. 

We were introduced to our bikes, a collection of gleaming BMWs, and shortly thereafter went off to enjoy our first group dinner together. Although we had met for the first time just hours before, our little group immediately gelled. Most were from the States, with one couple from Canada. They were intelligent and entertaining, soon to become lifelong friends. 

Our trip to South Africa began with flights that took us through Newark to Cape Town on United. It all went smoothly. Our seats were comfortable and, most importantly, we were able to sleep pretty successfully on the 14+ hour flight to South Africa.

We hit the road running, at least as much so as one can do at our age. Our friends from Micato Safaris met us at the gate, deftly guided us through Customs and Immigration, and whisked us to The Silo, which was to be our home for the first three nights.

The Silo is the invention of Liz Biden, a famed designer and hotelier. It was built in the superstructure of an old grain silo and offers all the panache and services of any five-star hotel. With only 28 rooms/suites, it is intimate and yet offers every possible service one could expect.   Our suite offered panoramic views of the waterfront and was as exquisite as the public spaces, which are decorated with bold splashes of color and fine art from African artists and artisans.

Our Micato guide Deon met us the first day and the following morning took us on an extensive tour of the City, including a visit to Table Mountain. Victoria has been here on multiple occasions, but it was Mike’s first visit to Cape Town and he was quite impressed. The city is clean and orderly, the people friendly, and the sites are all beautiful. 

We thoroughly enjoyed every moment, including a reunion with Micato’s local Director, an old friend of Victoria’s whom she had not seen in 20 years, and a trip to see the sun set over the ocean provided by Micato.

We finished our time in the Cape Town area with a visit to a legendary destination, the family home of one of the giants of the hospitality industry. We are working out the details of our representation, but suffice it to say that this property, which is now available for guests is truly among the top two or three properties we have ever visited. Watch for details in the weeks ahead.

Our time in Cape Town finished with a night at the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, where we met our tour leaders from Ayres Adventures, the world’s leading provider of motorcycle adventures. Yes, that’s right. Mike is the avid motorcyclist, having ridden since he was a wee lad. Victoria has learned to go along with it.

Ayres provides their guests a highly polished and professional experience, and it was clear from the outset that our tour directors, Claus and Lenro, are top notch professionals. After a thorough overview of the upcoming (nearly) three weeks of touring, we adjourned to a wonderful restaurant for a great meal that was capped with a birthday cheesecake in honor of Mike’s birthday. 

We took possession of our motorcycles that evening and hit the road the next day. We are riding a BMW R1300 GS Adventure, the ultimate adventure/touring bike. We won’t belabor the details, but suffice it to say that it is the ultimate two-wheeled expression of motorcycling quality and technology. It is a dream bike.

Our first day’s ride took us along vertiginous cliffs that abut the ocean. Seldom, if ever, have we seen such beautiful scenery: beautiful mountains that flow into an azure sea, fringed with boulders and gorgeous beaches. Ultimately the road took us to Cape Agulhas, where we lodged for the evening at a quaint lodge that was hand built from salvaged timbers and rock by its owners. We dined that evening at a nearby restaurant that is at the southernmost tip of the continent. Amazing seafood and other South African specialties were accompanied by excellent local wines.

The next morning we hit the road for a brief trip to the southernmost tip of the continent, at Cape Agulhas National Park. After a bit of time for photos, we powered up the bikes and set off for the Oudtshoorn region. First, we traversed mind-blowing mountains, included the famed Tradow Pass. As we entered the mountains it initially felt much like the Appalachians…rolling hills that soon became genuine mountains and, ultimately, a mountain pass that defies one’s ability describe with mere words. Let’s just leave it at this—it is a truly stunning landscape. We’ll attach a few photos below, but you have to see it to comprehend.

As we navigated the twists and turns of the pass, the big BMW revealed its utter competence in every respect—more than ample power, handling that sets the standard for motorcycles, and an ample infusion of technology that makes the rider feel as though he or she is a master. The twists and turns gave way to sweeping curves as we descended the pass. We were flying. Absolutely flying!

Ultimately we descended back into an an agricultural area. Where we began to see large herds of sheep, cattle…and ostriches!

Lest we forget, every hour or two Claus and Lenro (who was driving the support van with luggage and spares), guided us to fantastic local establishments for coffee, lunches, and other refreshments. Decades in the business, Ayres knows exactly how to pace the experience and our two guides absolutely nailed it. 

Last evening (March 16), we ultimately arrived at Thylitsia Country Lodge. The day had gotten a bit hot (102 degrees F), and it was a welcome respite after a phenomenal day aboard our motorcycles. The Lodge is charming…beautiful rooms and exquisite food prepared by the proprietor Lollies, and his staff. Lollies cooked a wonderful meal for us, an authentic braaied brie…fantastic!

That brings us to this morning, where we are spending a leisurely couple of hours on the veranda while some members of our group take on another mountain pass. Soon we’ll be heading to our next destination. Stay tuned!

Our team of experienced travel advisors is standing by to match you with exactly the right itinerary to help you achieve your travel dreams, whether aboard a private yacht, staying in a luxurious villa, or jetting around the world. Here we present a select number of exciting options from our worldwide Elán Portfolio. Whether for yourself, your spouse, or your extended family, the gift of travel is a gift that truly lasts a lifetime, creating cherished memories.

Our year has been exceptionally busy—we kicked things off with an extended trip to India, followed by a return to Italy. We attended the Formula One race in Imola, took a trip aboard the La Dolce Vita Orient Express, made a motorcycle trip to the Badlands National Park, visited an astounding Inn located in Newfoundland, jetted off to Marbella, and checked into a magnificent villa in Costa Rica. Lest you think we were just enjoying ourselves (and we can’t deny that we were), all of these trips also involved visits to the properties that we personally vet for our clients

As we look forward to 2026, the calendar is already filling up. We currently have visits to South Africa, Italy and France on the books. And you? It’s certainly time to start thinking ahead…perhaps a gift of travel for your spouse or your extended family? And so, we present you with our Holiday Gift Guide….

Sheldon Chalet, Denali National Park, Alaska
Sheldon Chalet is one of the most wild, luxurious, and unbelievably beautiful destinations on Earth. Located on a mountaintop jutting out of the Ruth Glacier, deep in Denali National Park, the Chalet is offered only on an exclusive buyout basis. Arriving by helicopter, you’ll be greeted by your dedicated concierge, outfitted with top-line outdoor gear, treated to meals prepared by a chef of unrivaled talent, and guided by two experienced and highly qualified guides. 

Regardless of the season, you’ll be surrounded by remarkable natural beauty. Pampered in gorgeous accommodations. And given the opportunity to experience one of the world’s most wild and unbelievably gorgeous settings anywhere.

-Fogo Island Inn, Newfoundland, Canada

Located on the easternmost edge of North America, Fogo Island Inn offers a unique brand of luxury—all of it locally produced—on the rocky shores of the Atlantic Ocean. The accommodations are equipped with handmade furniture, locally produced quilts, and wood stoves. The level of cuisine is unimaginably creative and delicious, mostly locally sourced. Recently named #6 on Condé Nast Traveler’s list of the World’s Best Luxury Hotels, it’s beyond delightful.

-Villa Avellana, Costa Rica

We recently stayed at this beautiful villa, which encompasses over 30,000 square feet of luxurious indoor and outdoor spaces. Accommodating up to 25 guests (on a buyout basis only), the staff of 26 sees to your every need, whether the sumptuous meals prepared in one of their many kitchens, beach activities for the kids, deep sea fishing for the adults, or simply relaxing around the pool. 

An all-inclusive experience, Villa Avellana melds the highest level of luxury with every  comfort you can imagine. It’s simply gorgeous, the perfect getaway for family or a group of friends.

-Micato Safaris (Africa and India)

We’ve traveled extensively with Micato, and earlier this year we spent three weeks touring India in the company of their esteemed Tour Director, Puneet Dan. The experience defies description in mere words. We stayed in incredibly beautiful palace hotels, ate sumptuous meals, and toured cultural sites like the Taj Mahal with a level of access that only Micato can provide. At every step Puneet and others from Micato deftly handled every aspect of our time in India. Even being as experienced as we are in traveling the world, it truly set the bar for excellence.

Similarly, we have traveled on Safari in Africa with Micato. Throughout our experiences there we have been paired with unrivaled guides and had wildlife encounters that stretch the bounds of what we thought were imaginable. And, at each step, whether staying in a luxurious tented camp or transiting the continent by bush plane, the level of care and professionalism were astounding. 

Whether you want to follow one of Micato’s set itineraries or create a completely customized experience, there is simply no substitute. 

-Discover the Dolomites with Elán
As we have mentioned, our most recent trip to Italy included a visit to Imola, where we met with local dignitaries and were privileged to enjoy viewing the spectacle from the most coveted venue within the race course, a tower overlooking the track at the start/finish line. We followed this with a visit to Florence and Rome.

We’re going back to Italy in September of 2026. We’ll be visiting Lake Como, Florence and Tuscany.

Separately, you are invited to do the same on a trip that will retrace the steps of Andrea Grisdale’s acclaimed ​Italian Routes series as she visited the Dolomites. We’ve created a customized itinerary patterned after this outstanding series. On this trip, once you arrive in Italy, you’ll be met for a VIP escort through customs and immigration, gather gather your bags and travel on to beautiful the Dolomites. 

We (Victoria and Michael) are excited to also be leading a personally escorted visit to the Dolomites in 2027, which will be strictly limited to a very small number of guests, and focused on exquisite experiences that are undiscovered by most. The accommodations, experiences, and food will be unique and outstanding. Super limited availability, so contact us now: [email protected]. 

These experiences are just a sample of the many travel opportunities available through Elán…all personally vetted and planned with the utmost attention to detail. But, as we mentioned, after a relatively quiet summer period, travelers are once again clamoring for time at our most coveted properties. If you are looking for a special experience for you or your loved ones, now is the time to start planning.

Imagine a place at the easternmost edge of North America. Wild. Rocky. Fresh air laden with salt spray. And imagine in this place you find an ultramodern inn serving homegrown food and hospitality. Handmade furniture. Wood stoves. Beds furnished with authentic locally crafted quilts. 

That place exists, and I was lucky enough to visit with my daughter-in-law Aly, the founder of the Culinary Health Alliance (https://culinaryhealthalliance.com/). The place? Fogo Island Inn.

We just returned from a short visit to this unique ultra-sophisticated inn located at the easternmost edge of North America on Fogo Island. This Relais and Chateaux property is truly unique, situated on the edge of the ocean, incorporating modern design, and focusing on true sustainability.

The Inn’s creation, and the island’s salvation, came in the form of a wealthy benefactor, a Fogo Island resident who returned after a successful finance career. The story behind Fogo Island Inn was told in a story on 60 minutes (https://youtu.be/2hS9bx7wH7o?si=kpBHapcZKcn-KtBz), and it is a remarkable testament to the vision of Zita Cobb, the Fogo Island native who left, made her fortune in the USA, and returned to start a charity with the mission of rebuilding the economy. It has been a phenomenal success.

Fogo Island Inn is one of only two hotels in Canada that has been awarded three Michelin Keys, and just last week was recognized as number six among the World’s Best 50 Hotels and Resorts.

The Inn, operated by the nonprofit organization known as Shorefast is miraculous on any number of levels. First, it forms the centerpiece of a reborn economy. Second, it seems almost impossibly remote. And third…perhaps most important…the Inn serves up a mixture of comfort, access to nature, and luxury that one might think impossible to experience in a place such as this. 

Beyond that, Shorefast is notable in its philosophy of returning most of its revenue to the Fogo Island economy, in the form of salaries and benefits for local residents and in reinvestment in the operational costs of its business enterprise. 

During our short four-day visit, we toured the island, visited artisans, did some foraging, and ate incredible meals, the ingredients for which are sourced from the sea and the local area.

We’ll share a few of our photos below, but nothing can compare to an actual visit. We are proud that the Inn is part of the Elán portfolio, and we invite you to experience it yourself. Meanwhile, if you’d like to learn more, you can navigate to https://fogoislandinn.ca/. Just make sure to book through Elán for the exclusive benefits available to our clients.

For more details, please contact me at [email protected].

As we shared our plans to visit India over the past year the question we repeatedly got was “Why?” Objectively, one could recite the statistics: the World’s most populous country; home of some of Earth’s largest cities, neighbor to China, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Myanmar; home to Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Sikhism, Buddhism and others; one of the world’s largest economies; and more.

But, the truth is a little more complicated—it just seemed so exotic. And mysterious (at least to one of us).

Trips like this are always enjoyable, but they also are all about work. We began our plans for this journey a year ago, working with our trusted partners at Micato Safaris. Micato has been named the world’s best safari company ten times, and they are always our first choice when planning travel to Africa or India for our clients. Their attention to detail and the level of expertise they bring to the table sets the benchmark for our industry, and it is the sort of expertise that allows us to create unrivaled experiences for those who turn to Elán. This is the “why” of why Elán exists…to set the standard by which others in this business measure themselves, and thereby providing unrivaled experiences for our clients and theirs. 

Ultimately our year of conversations and planning with Micato resulted in a 40-page itinerary, detailing a journey that would take us to some of India’s most renowned sites over a span of three weeks.

If our experiences inspire you, we’d suggest that you explore the possibility of a similar custom journey with Micato (https://www.micato.com/india/custom-journeys/). 

Our journey began when we boarded our flights to Delhi aboard Etihad. Victoria had just returned the prior day from Japan, so this already epic journey was a bit more ambitious for her. We flew via Abu Dhabi and the level of service aboard Etihad was beyond reproach. Still, when we got to Delhi we were truly tired. Any hint of apprehension was immediately erased as we stepped off the plane and were met by a porter who took us immediately to the Immigration desk. After checking our e-visas against our passports we stepped outside, where we were met by Micato India’s Managing Director, Michael, and our Tour Director, Puneet. We knew at that point that we were in good hands…Puneet is actually a legendary figure in Indian tourism. More about that later. 
​
We immediately drove to our first “home” in India, Leela Palace. There, as at every hotel we stayed during our trip, we received a warm welcome…anointed with oil and showered with rose petals. And now is the time to make the first important point of our post: At Leela Palace and every place we visited over the next three weeks we experienced an incomparable level of genuine warmth and hospitality. Obviously the staff is very well trained, but you know when someone really cares…and it was evident in every moment at this hotel and elsewhere. 

We were directed to our elegant, beautifully decorated suite, had a fantastic light dinner that Puneet ordered for us, then retired for the evening. 

Mindful of the fact that a play by play could amount to drudgery, some of the highlights of our time in Delhi included a rickshaw ride through the old city, a tour of New Delhi, including its impressive government complex and the mansions of billionaires, and a visit to Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Also, extremely noteworthy, we visited a large Sikh temple where we observed the singing of hymns and the preparation of a communal meal that is provided to thousands daily without charge, reflecting the Sikh values of service to others. 

One could spend a lifetime and never fully explore Delhi…it covers an area of 573 square miles and is home to 35 million inhabitants. But, in the span of two days we were able to grasp a bit of it. We saw a fair amount of the city, but what we found most surprising was the expanse of green space, the number of universities, and the prevalence of wealth in some parts of the city. As a counterpoint, we also experienced incredibly busy streets, many of which were inhabited with small shops and street food vendors.

(Note that you can see a larger version of any of the photos we’ve included by clicking on them; some were taken in portrait, so you’ll need to click on those photos to see them in full.)
​

Leaving Delhi, we ventured on to Agra. The drive from Delhi revealed a different side of India, as we passed lively villages, farm machinery fabricated from diesel pump engines, and even the occasional camel.  The arrival in Agra brought us to the beautiful Oberoi Amarvilas. Upon entering the lobby, we were immediately surrounded by the incredible luxury that distinguishes the hotel as one of the world’s finest. And the view! The Taj Mahal can be seen from the lobby…and from every room and suite. See the photos below for more.

We ventured to the Taj Mahal twice, once the following morning and once in the evening. Truthfully, it’s emotionally overwhelming. The building itself is a monument to love, built by Emperor Shah Jahan, fifth of the great Mughals, in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. But as you approach the Taj Mahal you find yourself awestruck by the magnificence of the building itself. Built of white marble with a soaring dome and towers, it’s impressive from afar. But, as you get closer you see the incredible attention to minute detail in the form of tens of thousands of intricate designs of inlaid semiprecious stones. We spent some time there and returned later in the day. As the sun hits the monument from a different direction, the stone takes on a soft, almost rosey appearance. We had two truly memorable dinners at the Oberoi Amarvilas. The first was on our private patio overlooking the Taj Mahal. On the second evening we were treated to a stunning candlelit dinner set in the beautiful grounds of the hotel, while we were treated to dance and music performed by local artists. This is truly an amazing hotel, beautiful in every respect and situated in a location unique in the world.

The morning after our second dinner, I have to admit to being a bit overwhelmed as we prepared to leave. Looking out from our balcony for our last glimpse was one of those times when we both realized that we had experienced something magical, an experience we had waited for for a lifetime…and that it might never again be repeated. It brings a lump to you throat…a mixture of awe, gratitude, and even a bit of mourning as you leave it behind. 

But, as we left the Oberoi Amarvilas we knew we were heading to another great adventure, a visit to Ranthambore National Park. Our accommodations for the next two nights were in the tented encampment of the Oberoi Vanyavilas. Again…as happened repeatedly…we were showered with rose petals and given a blessing as we arrived. Our tent was, in truth, more like a luxurious personal lodge, beautifully appointed. Our meals at the main lodge were, as one would expect, incredible.

But the highlights were our jeep trips into Ranthambore. We ventured into the park three times. The first, one the evening of our arrival, introduced us to deer, antelopes, an assortment of native birds, and a few alligators. 

The greatest treasures were on the second day. While there’s never a guarantee, we were fortunate enough to encounter bengal tigers, a leopard, and sloth bears…along with an assortment of other creatures, great and small. We have to acknowledge the expertise of our guide, but also our good fortune. 

The considerable distance to our next destination, Udaipur, required us to take a brief and comfortable flight.

Since returning we’ve mentioned to everyone we’ve talked to about our trip our experience with the kindness and generosity of the Indian people. This flight revealed it in a simple and touching encounter with an 11 year old boy who was seated next to us on the flight, traveling to Udaipur as an unaccompanied minor. During the flight he ordered a Coke and we offered to pay. He politely refused and made it clear that he actually wanted three Cokes! Once the flight attendant brought them and he paid, he presented each of us with one of the Coca-Colas he had ordered, proclaiming “It is my duty,” suggesting he was obliged by faith and tradition to show kindness to visitors. We thanked him and as we left the plane, he bowed and touched Victoria’s foot with his hand as a show of respect. This was an experience that was on the one hand minor, but on the other hand revealed what we saw of the Indian spirit—kindness, generosity, and respect. It was truly humbling.

Upon arrival at the airport, our driver Gulab was waiting for us—again with his immaculate (and perfectly stocked) white van. We made our way to our next hotel, the Lake Palace, a gleaming oasis in the middle of Lake Pichola, accessible only by boat. We had breakfast with Puneet, then set out on our exploration of this truly beautiful city. Much of the India we saw was chaotic, but Udaipur, particularly the area near the lake and the City Palace, was immaculate. We toured the nearby temples of Elingli and Nagda, which date back to the fourth century.

We continued on to Devigarh Fort Palace, a unique hotel set a distance from the city, where we partook of a demonstration of local cooking. This area is particularly beautiful, set among rolling hills punctuated by temples and some very nice homes that serve as retreats for for the fortunate. 

We have to confess that this was one of our favorite cities…and the fact that we got to spend much of it in a truly lovely palace in the middle of a beautiful lake made it more than exceptional. Here, as in every place we stayed, the staff went above and beyond to make every aspect of our stay comfortable.

​We were truly treated like royalty. It is, it seems, the Indian way.

We had a considerable drive to get to our next destination, Jodhpur. In some parts of the world the roadside sights can be fairly mundane, but that is never the case in India. Along the way, we passed alongside camels, elephants, and endless array of shops and cafes, and more than a few gaudily decorated trucks, tractors and scooters driving on the wrong side of the road…it’s all just part of the ever-surprising panorama of Indian life. As a nod to Mike’s penchant for motorcycling, Puneet arranged for a stop at a shrine commemorating a motorcycle that was imbued with mystical powers following a crash that took the life of its owner many years ago. It’s a pilgrimage for Indian motorcyclists, but largely unknown to the rest of the world, and was just one example of how Puneet crafted our itinerary and experiences every day (on another occasion Puneet arranged for a Royal Enfield motorcycle to be brought to our hotel, so Mike could ride it around the grounds…to the rather great alarm of the security staff!!).

Our arrival at the Umaid Bhawan Palace was truly an epic experience in a thoroughly epic trip. Escorted into the grounds by horse-mounted guards, we felt once again as though we were royalty ourselves. Pulling up to the Palace, once the largest private home in the world, we found ourselves awestruck by the size and magnificence of one of the world’s great hotels, designed and built in the art deco style. 

We didn’t have much time to adjust, however, as we were informed that we had been invited to a cocktail reception with the Royal Family. It was truly a wonderful introduction, and we were greeted by the King and Queen as though we were lifelong friends. After a bit of time with them and other invitees, we returned to our suite to prepare for the midnight procession to a bonfire marking the beginning of Holi. The ceremony was marked by blessings, dancing, and music, with the bonfire being lit by the Maharaja as the ceremony drew to its climactic conclusion. 

The next morning was truly the dawn of Holi, as well as Mike’s birthday (!). We had been provided with white suits and after breakfast proceeded to a separate location on the grounds to once again celebrate with the Royals. The tossing of colored powders, fireworks, raucous music, and a general atmosphere of revelry marked this party of all parties. It was festive beyond belief, and accompanied by a wonderful array of Indian cuisine. 

But there was more. That evening we were asked to meet in the impressive rotunda to prepare for a meal that was well beyond anything we have ever experienced. We were both treated to a bit of royal treatment—a turban and sword for Mike, jewelry for Victoria. Then we were led to the beautiful gardens where musicians awaited while we dined on one of the more impressive meals we’ve ever been served. It was a little hard to keep track, but there were more than 20 dishes, as well as a birthday cake, the cutting of which was accompanied by fireworks!

From Jodhpur we flew to Varanasi. Again, the Micato touch was evident as every aspect of our transfer, air tickets, and handling of luggage were handled seamlessly by Puneet and his associates. It’s kind of the Micato way—the potentially challenging bits are all taken care of, and their guests are allowed to enjoy the journey unimpeded by concerns with logistics.

Varanasi…where to start? We had experienced plenty of the chaos of India up to this point—frenetic traffic with scooters competing with camels, elephants and tractors was, it seemed, the norm. But Varanasi turns it up a notch or two. It is the ultimate spiritual destination for those of the Hindu faith, situated on the banks of the Ganges River. It is here that millions come on pilgrimages, to bathe in the waters of the holiest of rivers, to commune with holy men, and in some instances to say farewell to those who have completed their mortal journey. Carnival rides compete for attention with funeral pyres. Commerce thrives alongside holy men of deep devotion. The throngs surging to the River are a force of nature.

It is the sum of all humanity. 

In writing this, it is the one place that induced writer’s block. The sensations are overwhelming. Varanasi will astound you. And, regardless of your faith (or lack thereof), it is the one place on Earth that you should visit in this lifetime. We are not of the Hindu faith, but you cannot help but be overwhelmed by the spectacle of the morning ceremony of priests welcoming the morning sun, or by the utter devotion to family and natural forces manifested by traditions that stretch back over millennia. 

We cruised the river (twice) and the sights were impressive—men and women bathing in the holy waters of the Ganges, religious ceremonies on the banks, and tented encampments surrounded by camels that are not movie sets…they are simply the reality of Varanasi.

After our first full day outing in the City, Puneet urged us to freshen up and meet him in the lobby. From there he led us outside for one of the most touching occasions in a journey that was filled with touching occasions, a Hindu ceremony performed by two priests, celebrating our 48 years of marriage. 

We also had a truly interest experience in Varanasi. After being led through a labyrinth of streets and Alleys by Puneet we arrived at a private residence where we were treated to a private performance by one of India’s most famous musicians and his students. I guarantee that this is not something you will find in any of the guide books. Only Micato. And notably, upon learning of the fact that one of the young men who had performed for us was facing the difficulty of having recently lost both of his parents, Puneet spontaneously declared that Micato would sponsor his studies going forward. The Micato Way. The Indian Way. The way we should all live.

That’s it, all I can write about Varanasi. Our photos may give a bit of a glimpse into this most amazing of cities, but you will never understand until you visit. And you must visit.

Mumbai is the perfect city to end a journey of this sort. It’s a huge city, home to fishermen and billionaires. A center of education and culture. Situated on a magnificent seashore. Our final hotel was the Oberoi Mumbai, a thoroughly modern luxury hotel that provided the perfect venue to reflect on a nearly three week trip through India. We visited a couple of truly extraordinary restaurants, did an early morning tour of the markets, visited some of city’s more unique sights, and even a museum that houses truly extraordinary cultural and artistic treasures. 

We shared tea with earnest workers preparing newspapers for distribution, walked among fishmongers whose traditions date back centuries, and visited a famed outdoor laundry. The flower market was a riot of color, with hundreds of thousands of beautiful blooms on display. The spice market offered insight into the culinary traditions of everyday Indian households. We drove by the world’s most costly private home (built at a cost of $2 billion), and walked with those of the most modest means. While a little more sedate in some respects than other places we had visited, Mumbai still offered the now-expected unexpected at nearly every turn. 

We lost track of how many times we used the word “amazing” on this journey. The array of beautiful sights, historical palaces, and new cultural experiences was incredible, almost to the point of being overwhelming. What we’ve presented here is merely a glimpse of what we experienced. We covered thousands of miles on the road and in the air. One small indication of the breadth of sights and experiences that we encountered is the fact that we amassed over 2,000 photographs. 

​As we boarded the first of our two flights to return home, we have to confess a bit of sadness as we left behind one of the most wondrous places on Earth. Every day in India had been filled with something new…and almost always unexpected. The  traditions of kindness and generosity were a constant, set amidst the contrast of grand palaces, magnificent temples, and many people of humble means. In India, one’s senses are constantly switched to “full on,” lest you miss something of significance. Truthfully, without the steady guidance of our Travel Director and now dear friend Puneet, we would have missed most of it. Not only did Puneet guide us through every one of the sights we had worked into our itinerary, he (and no doubt the crew of Micato) arranged for several magical moments that were wholly unexpected…a motorcycle ride, a visit to one of the country’s most renowned musicians, and introductions to royalty (in their homes) were experiences that we never expected or could have anticipated.

Tigers…royal processions…touching exchanges with everyday people. India is magical, mystical, and above all else, the ultimate expression of the human experience. Our description is but a feeble attempt to capture some of the highlights. You can only comprehend the splendor once you’ve lived it.

However you do it, get there in your lifetime. And if you want to do it in a way that deepens and enriches your experience make sure you plan your visit with our dear friends at Micato. 

We’re crazy about dogs, and we’re apparently not alone. Pet owners in the United States spent over $150 billion on their pets in 2024 and Morgan Stanley predicts that number will hit $260 billion by the end of the decade. People love their pets.

Helping our clients plan for travel with their pets has become a significant part of what we do. Our journey down this road actually started over 25 years ago, when through a series of events no one could have predicted, we ended up taking a client’s Maine Coon Cat into our home for several months. Yes, these things happen when you develop a close relationship with your clients.

Our period of cat stewardship ended with us loading this cat (Lyndon) into a limousine that took him to a nearby airport, where he was flown by private jet to the home of our client’s relatives in Durango, Colorado. Lyndon went on to live a long life in a loving home. 

Our client profiles often contain as much information about a client’s dogs as their children, and we frequently help with transportation and accommodations for every member of the family, including those with four legs. Over the years we’ve learned a thing or two, particularly about traveling with dogs…

Preparing Your Pet for Travel
First and foremost we’ve found though our clients’ experiences that a healthy, well mannered dog makes the travel experience infinitely better. Your pet’s health is the primary consideration, and we assume that you will have that well in hand. For those traveling abroad, meeting the health requirements of the country you’ll be visiting is of utmost importance, as are the requirements for bringing your pet back into the United States. Since these are such critical components of planning your trip, we turn to business partners who specialize in these critical steps.

It’s equally critical to ensure your pet is ready to handle the challenges of thriving in new and unfamiliar surroundings. For dogs, we suggest starting with professional training, which results in a calmer, better behaved dog that is acclimated to the stresses of travel. From the time we welcomed Sophie, The Official Dog of Elán, into our family our intentions were to bring her along on our travels. Since the time we picked her up, she’s been on the road with us; it’s no exaggeration to say that Sophie has easily logged over 40,000 miles with us as we transit back and forth between our offices. Her inaugural Big Girl trip was last year, when we traveled with her to a Tennessee cabin for a week of touring that included a visit to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and a sojourn to Mardi Growl, a celebration of dogs in Knoxville. She was a champ, but there comes a time when every dog owner realizes that their pup needs a little bit of finishing work. Once Sophie reached adolescence she found her independent “I don’t necessarily have to listen to you” streak, and it was time for outside help.

When we found that one of the country’s true superstar trainers was based just over an hour away from our Wisconsin home we immediately reached out. A visit to Italy and France provided a window of opportunity to introduce Sophie to her new training environment and the results were phenomenal; the slightly naughty pup that we dropped off was returned to us as a well mannered and obedient dog after four weeks of finishing school with Rising Starr K9 (https://www.risingstarrk9.com/). Rising Starr’s owner Rick Pederson and his wife Joane provide a truly exceptional opportunity for a dog to be trained in myriad environments—in their home, in classroom settings with other dogs, and in a variety of social settings, including offices, clinics, stores and motorcycle dealerships. At the end of this process, Sophie emerged with poise and a full range of obedience skills. Remarkably, she also was independently tested and achieved three levels of certification through the AKC’s Canine Good Citizen program.

A Four Seasons Dog?
Having been set up for success, we then put Sophie to the ultimate test: Would she be able to pass the test of a visit to the Four Seasons Chicago? The answer, as it turned out, was “Absolutely, yes.” We loaded Sophie into our vehicle for the ride to Chicago. Upon our arrival, we were all greeted enthusiastically at the hotel’s entrance with the warm welcome known to all who have ever entered the “Four Seasons bubble.” After a brief walk to introduce her to the neighborhood, Sophie proudly trotted into the Four Seasons to universal approbation. She proved to be a real superstar, greeting staff and guests—once she was given permission, of course—with the sort of “I love you more than life itself” enthusiasm that golden retrievers exhibit so naturally.

As with every Four Seasons, their Chicago hotel sets the benchmark by which all others are measured. Having recently undergone a top to bottom renovation the Four Seasons Chicago, situated on the Magnificent Mile, hits the mark for an exceptional hotel experience in every way. Once you’re greeted at the entrance you travel to the seventh floor lobby, and are immediately impressed by the sophisticated tone of welcoming luxury that distinguishes the brand. Of course, Sophie was immediately the object of much fawning attention by staff and guests alike, a role she quickly and happily adopted. We were shown to our beautiful suite, which quickly met with Sophie’s approval. And why wouldn’t it? The hotel had set up a dog bed inside a tent for Sophie, put out water and food bowls, and lavished her with treats and toys. While Sophie brought her own food, it’s worth noting that the hotel’s Chef will assist with meeting a pet’s special dietary needs by making meals in house. 

It’s within the discretion of each luxury hotel property to determine whether to permit pets and to design a program for them and their owners. The Four Seasons Chicago not only provides the amenities we have shared, but also can arrange for pet-sitting or walking through the concierge desk. As with many other aspects of the luxury hotel experience The Four Seasons sets high standards, but a number of our other luxury hotel and resort partners offer similar amenities.

Whatever your destination, if you want to experience it with your pet there are numerous options. It’s truly extraordinary for a hotel to go to the lengths that the Four Seasons went to, and there are often additional charges, but if you’re among those of us who might want to occasionally travel with your pet, let us help you discover the possibilities. We get it…and we’ll help to arrange it.

Jetting with Pets
The Four Seasons Chicago was an easy drive for us, but many travelers are looking to travel further afield. In recent years pet airlines have come into existence, a service that may be exactly what you need. Elán partners with ​K9 Jets (https://www.k9jets.com/), who offer a unique service, flying owners, along with their pets, to and from locations in the United States to foreign destinations. 

In addition to the flights themselves, K9 Jets offers assistance in securing the essential paperwork needed to bring pets into another country, bringing experience and expertise to a process that few of us have had to navigate on our own. Their website provides a fascinating insight into this creative service: https://www.k9jets.com/..

K9 Jets is a fantastic option for those traveling to select overseas destinations, but we also have access to options for charter aircraft within the States or abroad for those who may prefer to travel solely with their own family and pets, and this service is in fact one that we frequently provide through our fully certified partners, who carry the highest level of safety certifications and can whisk you and your furry companions to a variety of destinations at high subsonic speeds.

The focus on travel with pets now means you no longer have to leave them behind. It can require a bit more planning to find the right destination and figure out the best way to get there, but it is entirely within the capabilities of Elán to arrange for your four-legged family members to travel with you as you explore the world. If you’d like to explore the possibilities, please phone us at 630.420.3538 and start the process.  

ESeldom do we have the opportunity to spend this much time on a single journey, but it was time for us to experience Explora Journey’s oceangoing resort, the Explora II, and their 16-day exploration of the Mediterranean provided the perfect vehicle (literally and figuratively) for us to check off some important items. We not only experienced the full range of amenities and activities aboard the ship, but we were able to schedule meetings and site inspections with providers from Rome to Morocco to Barcelona.

First, a bit about the ship: Explora II is the second ship launched by Explora Journeys. Commissioned by the Aponte family, whose maritime legacy spans centuries, this ship is the realization of their dream of creating a luxury resort at sea. As a recognized expert in the realm of luxury resorts, Victoria's consulted with the company through the concept and design stages. 

The ship is exquisite, cutting a sleek profile evocative of the great super yachts. Once aboard, the design, finishes, and amenities reflect tremendous attention to detail, from the soaring lobby bar to the tastefully appointed restaurants that include a steakhouse, a seafood restaurant, an Asian restaurant, and a fine French dining experience, as well as a venue featuring a multiple course prix fixe menu that truly rivals the most sophisticated dining establishments. This brief overview gives a glimpse into the unparalleled beauty of of the ship: https://youtu.be/qx_9Nt6kYpI?si=VLh7A7FLMsAehC5N.

Our suite, a Cove Residence, was spacious with a separate bedroom, spacious closet, and a combination living/dining room, as well as a huge balcony featuring a whirlpool tub. Outfitted with fully updated electronics, comfortable seating areas, a coffee bar/minibar, and a makeup table, it in every way lived up to the goal of recreating the experience of a luxury hotel.

Best part? It’s hard to say, but our personal Suite Ambassador, Karthik, made the entire journey a seamless experience. He oversaw daily cleaning and refreshment of consumables, made our restaurant and excursion reservations, and even coordinated two cocktail gatherings in our suite. 

We were truly impressed by the variety and quality of restaurants on board Explora II. One of the restaurants, Anthology, is a paid (extra cost) prix fixe dining experience of multiple courses with an optional wine pairing. The food was exquisite and worth the nominal additional cost. 

Sakura is a pan-asian restaurant, Marble & Co. is a steakhouse, Fil Rouge serves French inspired cuisine, and Club Med focuses on shared plates. Emporium Marketplace is open for all meals and features a number of made-to-order cooking stations with a range of offerings ranging from cheeseburgers to wood-fired pizza to excellent seafood. Passengers never touch the food until it’s handed to them, so there’s none of the concern one might have with a more typical buffet seen among competitors. The standards of quality and food safety here and in all the restaurant are beyond reproach. 

This particular journey saw us visiting Sorrento, Palermo, Tunis, Tangier, two of the Balearic Islands, Barcelona, Gibraltar and Malaga, plus more. Rather than engaging in a droning play-by-play, we’re attaching a selection of photos in the slideshow below. We did, however, want to share some of our favorites.

First among them was a day aboard a rented yacht, during which we visited beautiful Ischia, becoming a favorite of Italian vacationers. We enjoyed a fantastic meal on Ischia, then hopped  back to the mainland in time to do a bit of exploring and reboard. Menorca, one of the Balearic Islands, was a surprise. Beautiful small towns and a beautiful rolling countryside that reminded us of Oxfordshire, with thousands of miles of stone fences.  As is always the case on our travels this was a working trip, and we made sure that we visited two properties that we know will be of interest to our clients. Assisting us with this portion of our trip was Balearic Touring, a destination management company specializing in Spain’s Balearic Islands. After a tour of Ciutadella, which is a small city oozing in history, we sent on to tour Vestige Son Vell, then went on to tour a dairy farm and cheese factory that has risen to international prominence for the quality of its products.

Vestige Son Vell is one of Europe’s truly unique hotels, situated largely in an 18th century manor (with additional suite options in adjacent buildings), with an emphasis on casual elegance. The grounds feature extensive gardens, pools, and an organic fruit and vegetable garden that supplies the kitchen. On every trip we take we note those places that we “absolutely have to come back to,” and Son Vell is among them (https://vestigecollection.com/son-vell/).

Another of our “must do” experiences was a visit to the Alhambra, the sprawling Moorish palace of Granada that spans a history of nearly 800 years. This was on Mike’s “must do” list once saw that we would be visiting the port of Malaga. Mike’s Grandpa Bob had given him Washington Irving’s Tales of the Alhambra when he was a wee lad, and his interest was piqued during a brief tour of the palace in high school days. Though 50 years had passed, the Alhambra beckoned and we answered the call. It was a magnificent day.

Construction of the Alhambra began in 1238 under the direction of Muhammad I Ibin Al-Ahmad and underwent a series of enhancements and additions that have made it one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Our transport to and from the port of Malaga and our day of touring was arranged by our friends at Made for Spain. After a comfortable ride to Granada we were met by our guide (who spent much of his childhood within the confines of the Alhambra) and began a tour of the exquisite gardens. The architectural and engineering genius of the builders is hard to comprehend. Suffice it to say that the gardens, infused with pools and fountains, are truly among the most beautiful we’ve seen anywhere. 

The key to fully experiencing a site as large and complex as the Alhambra is to do so with a professional guide. We, of course, turned to our trusted partners at Made for Spain to plan the day. They provided beautiful transportation, a memorable lunch, and our highly qualified guide (who had actually spent most of his childhood on the Alhambra’s grounds). Under his guidance we skirted the crowds and enjoyed unique insights into one of the world’s best preserved Islamic Palaces, which later saw the artful melding of Spanish Renaissance architecture to create a place of unrivaled beauty. Hugely important moments in world history took place within the walls, including the grant given to Christopher Columbus by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand sponsoring his exploration of the New World.

One could spend days or weeks exploring the Alhambra, but our schedule demanded that we leave for a visit to a phenomenal restaurant overlooking the City of Granada. Paella was ordered. Sangria flowed. And then it was time to go back to our beautiful resort at sea, the Explora II.

During the course of our 16 days at sea, we had other similarly astounding experiences. And we came to fully grasp the allure of a seagoing journey with Explora Journeys. The ships exude a sense of place, though that place is moving. Guests enjoy a level of accommodation and cuisine that rivals the finest resorts. Comfortable bars, lounges, and pools provide ample opportunities for pure relaxation. And along the way those who travel with Explora have the chance to visit a constantly unfolding portfolio of exceptional experiences ashore that span the world. 

It’s also worth mentioning that in the world of luxury travel an Explora Journey represents a very fair value. Sumptuous suites with every amenity are available (and they are stunning), but for those who are less focused on the size of their suite, smaller, though still quite luxurious, accommodations are available. 

Our Cove Residence was wonderful. A two-room suite, it featured a separate bedroom, a living/dining room, bathroom, walk-in closet, and dressing table, as well as ample storage space. This brings us to what we see as a real point of importance—the sheer convenience of an ocean journey. When we arrived at our port of embarkation (Civitavecchia) we were met by a porter and our butler, who took us to our suite. Once there we unpacked—the only time in our two-week plus journey—and settled into our comfortable accommodations. Every need was attended to by our butler, from having clothes laundered to serving us meals at our dining table to making dinner reservations for us. The suite was maintained to a level that can only be described as immaculate. The fact that every day or two we found ourselves in some of the Mediterranean’s most astounding destinations was icing on the cake. 

Really, you must experience this type of travel. It makes it difficult to imagine anything else. 

We’d be happy to review the options aboard Explora’s ships with you and would also note that booking through Elán or another Virtuoso agency confers exclusive benefits that may not otherwise be available. Now is the time to start planning your Explora journey.

          Part Two: A Trip Back to Italy and France

The past few months have been a whirlwind of travel, and we barely had time to unpack and do laundry before it was time to board another flight to Italy. One of the things we’re most proud of is the network of colleagues in the travel industry who have become the best of friends over the span of our decades in business. Twenty five years ago our friend Andrea Grisdale founded a destination management company she named IC Bellagio, specializing in working with travel advisors to provide unrivaled experiences for those traveling to Italy. Andrea was throwing a party to celebrate and we were thrilled to accept her invitation. So it was back to Italy (never a hardship)!

Upon arrival we jumped into our awaiting car and started towards our ultimate destination, Casa Maria Luigia, just outside of Modena. This delightful guesthouse is owned and operated by world famous Chef Massimo Bottura and his wife Lara. The main restaurant on the premises is Francescana, a Michelin three-star restaurant that has twice been named the world’s top restaurant. We had but a few hours to shake off any vestiges of jet lag and prepare for a nine-course dinner at this world renowned establishment. Meals are served in a family style setting, with four tables of six diners. We were seated with a woman from the Philippines who was traveling with her son (whose mission in life is to dine at the world’s finest restaurants) and a couple from New York City who had immigrated to the States from Crimea during the time of conflict there many years ago.

Exquisite does not begin to describe the food. The dishes are introduced by members of the kitchen staff and guests have the opportunity to interact with them and watch the final preparation and plating of each dish. It was a “Wow!” experience…amazing food served and presented in an unpretentious manner, with the emphasis on quality and creativity. 

Guest accommodations are equally imaginative. The Casa is decorated with an incredible collection of modern art, all set amidst beautiful gardens. There is a second restaurant on the premises, as well as a facility that manufactures authentic Balsamic and a separate facility that Massimo has designated The Playground, a building filled with games, and with Massimo’s collections.

One night was really not enough time, but the next day was filled with more discoveries as we toured local food producers en route to our destination in Imola, where that evening we joined up with Andrea, the team of IC Bellagio, and industry luminaries from around the world to begin a celebration of a quarter century of excellence. The evening at ___ featured foods from local producers in the Emilia Romagna region, accompanied by music (and dancing!). The following morning we took a wonderful foot tour of Modena, taking in the truly impressive sites of this historic university city, then returned to resume the celebration of IC Bellagio. It was truly a magical event, beginning with an operatic performance and a cinematic recap of IC Bellagio’s 25 years of excellence. After the tenor’s last note we were led through the streets of Imola by a musical ensemble, capping the evening with a beautiful dinner in Imola’s central square.

It was wonderful to connect with so many friends from around the world, but the next day saw us on the road once again…literally, on the road, as we were chauffeured through the Italian countryside to the French Riveria, ultimately arriving in Nice at the Hôtel Du Couvent, a Luxury Collection Hotel located in the heart of the old city (https://www.hotelducouvent.com/). The hotel is a recently opened property within a restored convent that is centuries old and had been long abandoned. The scope of this project is breathtaking, as is everything within the walls of the old convent…beautiful rooms with exquisite amenities, excellent dining, and service that rivals the best anywhere. It’s notable that Nice now has a true luxury property within easy driving distance to the airport. 

And the food in Nice…close to Italy, it is distinctly French in style, with a nod to Italian dining. On our first night we opted for the casual atmosphere of Le Bistrot du les Surruriers, the hotel’s casual and intimate venue located just outside the main gate, where guests and locals mingle over perfectly prepared dishes. The next day our butler took us on a brief walking tour of the city center, then set us loose to browse the local market and shops. Another great lunch was followed by a tour of the hotel’s grounds (much of the produce used by the restaurant is grown on site), followed by dinner at Le Restaurant du Couvent. 

Early to bed, because the next day we had a flight from Nice to Bordeaux. We approached this flight with some trepidation because we were on EasyJet, which is a no-frills European airline. However, it was an easy flight of around an hour. From the airport our driver took us to a part of France that is unknown to many Americans. The Limousin region, now part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine administrative region, actually seems much like the beautiful Driftless Area of Wisconsin, where our cabin is located. Rolling hills and verdant forests are dotted with innumerable lakes, as well as fields populated with Limousin cattle.

What one doesn’t find in rural Wisconsin are 13th Century Chateaux converted to luxury hotels, exactly what we found when we arrived at Domaine des Etangs, Auberge’s newest European property (https://aubergeresorts.com/domainedesetangs). The property encompasses a 2,500 acre estate with lodging in the “Castle,” adjacent converted barns, and cottages scattered through the property. Our cottage was accessible by car and we were quickly assigned a little electric car, then followed our host to find ourselves in an exquisite little home of our own, complete with a large fireplace, sleeping loft, and a well-equipped kitchen. It was a wonderful little retreat. We enjoyed one meal there, delivered by staff, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner in their highly touted restaurant. On our second day there the staff prepared a beautiful picnic lunch. We packed it in our little electric Renault and found the perfect lakeside site for our picnic, with a view of the Castle. 

A highlight was our day in a chauffeured Citroen 2CV limo, complete with Champagne service. Our driver took us on an extended tour of the area, taking in the bucolic scenery of lakes, hills, and limousin cattle. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we stopped for a memorable midday meal at a small restaurant in an old mill that has earned a Michelin star. 

In all, we spent three nights at Domain des Etangs. It is supremely relaxing, beautifully appointed, and affords guests that elusive combination of comfort, luxury, relaxation and exceptional dining that the French have mastered. But next time we’ll make it a longer stay and we will definitely build in time to branch out even further in this sublime…and largely undiscovered…region of France.

On our final morning we were met by a driver who picked us up at our cottage and drove us to a local train station. From there we boarded the TGV train to Charles de Gaulle Airport. It was a comfortable and speedy ride, with our train hitting nearly 190 mph on the fastest stretches. Tremendously convenient, too, with the train terminal connecting directly to the airport.

​Then, back to the USA. 

We’ve provided direct links to some of the properties we visited, but we always encourage travelers to book through Elán or one of the trusted advisors affiliated with Virtuoso. With our worldwide collection of contacts and partners we always strive to deliver a travel experience that far exceeds expectations. Elán…Travel Beyond.